metalmangeler

You did good if you had not made them because you could do better you will never get better, because we could all do better. If we think that we could not do better we will likely only get worse, since that is not an objective and true analysis of what I or you made. I think that when first tongs work that is a good thing esp. if you didn't have some one to show you how. It shows a willingness to go out there and do it which is what all the top people do. You're way ahead of the many who make excuses (no anvil, no help, no power hammer, no brain, ect.)

I think that I will come to the art on fire Sat. but I am unsure what I will bring. Last year it was not a good sales show.

Hi Frosty
If you think that you want to make them as a sales item after you get your hammer running you can come by here some time with some stock I am sure we can put together a system that would be considerably under an hour of forgeing. How long it would take to finish them I have no idea.

Here I normally use an axel as was stated, the tool you need to think about good steel for is your eye punch which I use H13 for as I normally get it to hot. If you keep a couple hammers around that are not heat treated they are good to let the learners use as they won't reck your anvil.:rolleyes:

Hello Jeff
Hay Budden anvils were made in the USA which is good if you live here. They were wrought with a steel face welded on. The face seems to be harder than some of the old anvils and maybe thicker so they seem to not sway as much as some. There is plenty of rebound due to the hard face, but that contributed to the edges chipping some. They made both blacksmith and farrier anvils and some that are kind of a cross i.e. they have a larger horn and thinner heel than you would likely find on say a Peter Wright, that is a mixed blessing depending on what you are doing.
Mine is 184# the serial number is mashed enough that I cannot make it out. It is my main shop anvil.

Hey Cooper if you find a good deal on a heavy anvil pick it up it should be easy to trade for a lighter one of the same quality.:D

I use a large outside tank here, propane will not vaporize below -40 F. so if you are using enough in a small tank to get below that temp or if that is the outside temp then there are problems. The propane place which delivers to us recomends a magnetic heater that is normally used to warm engines so they will start on cold mornings. This tank is about 185 gallon if I remember correctly I don't have problems with this system here, the tank is always outside, the only safe place for propane, the last few years I don't remember the temps getting below -35 F, so I would expect it to work in NC.
With small tanks inside I have used a tub of water it works pretty well.

You might try Parker they have a large selection of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff. You should be able to find them by googleing.

A lot of my market is the pre-Christmas shows they have been down for me this fall so far, I've been wondering if I should be modifying my products or if it is just the economy, maybe both.
I think it would be a hard time to start full time, if you have back up income it might be really good to have some inventory stocked up when this is over as many will not be able to stockpile in a slow economy. From what has been said here some of the competition won't even be around. Having multiple skills should really help to stay employed in hard times.

Hi if you do not have the tools to properly aneal as discribed you can heat to nonmagnetic (not much beyond) and cool however slowest you can and it will be somewhat soft as it wants to get to 1850 F to harden. The idea is to heat past tempering temp. but below hardening temp. It would be better of course to properly aneal the steel but without a heat treating oven might be impractical.

I useally make them about 26 inches long but a selection of lengths some times helps sales.

Very nice Richard I always was a little jealous of your neat frog. Soon you will be a franchise. ;)

I make mine normally from hickory I used to use hockey sticks and whatever else I came across, but now I think that it pays to buy the right stuff. I like to use what I think is called bastard cut these handles take a lot of abuse far more that the handles that I used to buy ready made and of course are much less expensive than anything I can buy here. I saw them to size and then rasp off the corners with an old hoof rasp.

I have taken tools in both duffel bags and suit cases I would think about useing blueboard to keep sharp points from comeing out. Don't take anything of so much value that you can't afford to lose it. Security seems to always look at the tools since 9/11 so don't put something really tempting with them. Hope you have a good trip.

I agree with Bentiron on 23 it is a hippo sandal a horse shoe that was tied on with a strap between the metal loops.
The Roman or maybe earlier version of an Easy Boot.;)

Hi Jymm I didn't realize that they used H-13 back then.:rolleyes:Nice looking hammers.

John they look very nice, I hope you get enough to want to make more if not you didn't get enough.

Around here someone would put a hole in the center of each one.

A handled fuller can be set more exatly than most of us can swing a hammer. However you need a way for it to be hit while you are holding it so a striker power hammer or tredle hammer of some sort may help.
A bottom fuller (as in hardie hole tool) will work the other side of your work while you work the top, this will help for making a shoulder or just moveing matieral rapidly often a smith will use an anvil edge or horn as a bottom fulller.

I have no idea how one posts a picture. Also expect that I would need the newer type camras to do it.
The hood is just made of sheet metal fitted to a 10 inch stove pipe that I am running out side through a high vent although through the roof would be better. The hood is 3 X 4 feet over the entire forge.

Jay I forge in the winter with only one window open as it gets cool here. I also have a hood over my forge partly to remove CO, but also to remove water which is a major byproduct of burning propane. You need a CO detector as stated. If you are running to rich the consequences are much more deadly than having scale or difficulty forge welding, which are the consequences of running to lean, running lean does use up your oxygen so you need to replace that too.
If your forge burners are not adjustable then if your CO detector is finding CO you will have to add more ventilation irregardless of how much you have. If there is no detectable amounts you will need to have enough ventilation to replace the air you are using for your fire. If it is cold condensation can be a big problem for the building, assuming you are doing lots of forging.

Hi Frosty it looks like that one is the new improved version. I found that I have one left from the fair. I may let you see it for a fee.;)

Hey Divermike if it works and you are not selling it, then it is likely pretty enough, unless the customers might see it. Sometimes I make tools to get the job done, sometimes for bragging rights this looks like it should get the job done to me. :)

As stated in the first 2 posts you mark the hot metal with your stick at those temps. when useing a lower temp. (I think 600F or less) you can mark the steel first as you did. Perhaps you misread the directions.

Floor? What is that? Anyone who's ever seen my mess will like the looks of your shop.