nonjic

Looks like you stole it to me! Scrap man would prob give ya $400 for it, its a no loose.

Just to confuse hammer definitions a little further, .... in the UK forging industry 'self contained' usually refers to a gravity drop hammer where the lifter mechanism is mounted directly on to of the hammer legs (as opposed to being mounted on a separate gantry structure). An open die hammer that generates its own air is usually a 'clear space' , or if used as a pre-forming hammer for closed die work a 'dummy hammer' :blink:

Ive let 'free' hammers go to the big re-cycling center in the sky because of the lift and shift costs. on a side note it allways makes me smile when you correct someone on their pronunciation of 'Ped-an-tic', and I still chuckle about the thread on facebook last year when someone updated their status to 'im going to end it all, people is allways putting me down' to which someone replyed 'ARE'. perhaps getting out more would help me :rolleyes:

If young mr Dylan situated his compressor any place outside his workshop he would have to blow into his powerhammers like a man inflating a lilo the next day. Stockport, gotta love it (we once left a press tool weighing seveal hundred kilos in a heavily gated & barbed wire yard outside our old factory, in a similar kinda area to stockport, a few years back. One of the lads suggested putting it inside for the night, gaffer said 'duck it, if they can lift it they can have it..... I honestly thing the smack heads could build a pyramid in double quick time with no power tools if they were rattling and there was a bag of brown at the end of the job )

I allways wear specs when hammering, ear plugs 95% of the time (I work with lots of older folks, and I realised that DEAF creeps up on you stealthy ) Leather pinny when on the power hammer or doing a lot of grinding (especially cut off disks) no point it chopping your dick off if a disk lets go Dont really see the need for gloves, unless im doing a lot of forgewelding at full whack on the gas forge, when the handles get hot, welders gauntlet (or two) then. Thing is (touch wood) ive never copped a proper burn from not wearing gloves metalworking. I think I allways 'tap' stuff before I pick it up. When I was about 8 I picked up a brick from beside the camp fire, that had been in the camp fire. That memory is still fresh over 25 years later, hence the subconcious tapping!

oh, sorry for the thread hi-jack by the way.... The only thing I can think of to speed up the taper job would be to have dies with some slight radi cut into them so you are working a slightly larger area of the bar surface with each strike of the hammer. (Ill have to have a think how this would work over a long taper, It might be you could have, say 3 different radi cut in the die blocks, with the largest in the middle where the heavy work is done. )

learning from yourself david.... either under a workbench or outside in a seperate shed :lol:

hopefully the hammers will all be sold There will allways be new stuff coming in though ! How big a shop are you looking for? I can keep my ear to the ground for ya

The anyang 15 kg (33lb( has a footprint of about 16" x 36" if you want to go the self contained route. Im guessing the I.Kiss 50lb is pretty similar if you want to go 'utility' hammer. Basically either of these will take up less space than a flypress on a stand B)

go on, you know you want to............ Ive got an alldays and onions 1 cwt (one piece) in stock, a massey 1cwt 'with slides' (again a one piece)and have got 'dibs' on another Massey 2 cwt 'clear space' , you should pop round sometime!

That looks like it would actually be a pleasure to use ! B)

Dont think it was for sale david !! Its only half an anvil, so not a right lot of use other than as a paperweight Did see an intersting counterblow hammer today that was also 'chunky'. Each of the tups was 60 ton, and the air receiver was at least 12' dia x 60' tall

Though some of you guys and gals would like to see this lump I found in the corner of a yard when out hammer buying today Its the top off a drop stamp anvil (guess the other half is still in the ground somewhere!) Recon it must be getting on for 150 tons ! Im well over 6' tall , and im standing a few feet towards the camera when the photo was taken just to give a jist of the size. The photo doesnt really portray how BIG it is when you see it in the flesh. Diddnt get chance to check the rebound.........

very very (very) cool ! I can apreciate how much work has gone into getting it going ! Is it that high because you havent 'sunk' the anvil ? ( I believe the 'IFI' terminology is 'outlaw style' install?) Now, Forging videos please !

Not Unless someone has chopped about 12" off the length of the 'diameter' portion sam. On the Alldays & Pilkington hammers it extends right down into the hammer frame, and is secured with a large taper key in a slot through the sow block and hammer frame. Its more likely just an oddball die block, to my eyes anyhoo.

Intersting thread with lots of good info! Im thinking of trying Mokume with iron & sterling silver. (ive got 0.020" iron sheet from an old electrical thingy) My gas forge will hold an accurate temperature, and Ive got thermocouples to take some guesswork out of it, Ill probably start with a stack 1.5" cube. What temp should I be shooting for? Sterling silver melts at 893c , should I stay about 50c below that? Would half an hour at temp be enough? Ill heat the billet in clamp plates (possibly in a stainless can), and once its had a soak at temp give it a gentle squeeze under hydraulic press. Anything I should watch out for? would like to get it right first time as there will be $100 of silver in the billet!

This is a subject that ive been thinking alot about lately. Ive had some nice results making silver lined carbon steel damascus rings, but stainless is the way forward. Ive had a read up, and must emphasise ive not tried this yet. However, im going to buy 304 & 316 stainless sheet (as used by J.loose http://www.jloose.com/ ) Then im gonna pickle it, pack it in a can with a squirt of WD40 and just get it very hot, soak it for half hour, and give it a good seeing to with a power hammer. The trick to welding stainless appears to be keeping all oxygen away from the material as it heats. Ill post the results up in a couple or 3 weeks.

Thanks for the nice words! Beth, I did forge the steel before it went in the lathe, so it almost counts!

Had a play with some 925 sterling silver today, pleased with the result! The steel is another section from the bar I made the first one from,.

Thanks bob! Ive just had another read up, and the chrome layer is a silver grey metallic colour, what youve written makes prefect sense now. I was under the impression that a very thin layer of chrome would still allow the base metal 'colours' to show through. :rolleyes:

Hmmm, Ill have to do some reading, but I thought the chrome was clear, but for decorative applications it was applied over the top of a previously applied electro deposited 'shiny' base like nickel? and for applications like hydraulic cylider rods it just looked metal coloured, coz it was applied over a ground rod. I could have looked this up in the time its taken me to type this , research tomorrow!

I turned this on a lathe from a piece of soild bar, John, Im 99% sure that hard chrome plate is a clear coating. Im going to make a couple more, and experiment with depth of etch, and leaving more of the black on the 20c after etch etc(this one is buffed shiny) Ill do a few to make it worth taking them to the platers and see what they come out like. I dont have a much time investment in them so just keep playing untill I get nice results I really need to start welding stainless!

This is my first try at anything 'crafty' and im pretty pleased with the results. Gonna try a few different things jewellery wise (stainless 'mascus, mokume , siversmithing etc) but weve all got ot start somewhere ! turned it on a rather large lathe Its 15n20 / 20c & pure nickel, straight laminate (nothing fancy, I was just testing the process!), so its gonna need plating. If I get a couple more done I will have a looksy into hard chrome plating (know an industrial shop that will sort it for me!) all feedback appreciated!

The anyang is as suitable for cold texturing as any other power hammer. Power hammers are designed for forging hot metal. When you use a spring swage there is hot metal in there. You should never strike the die blocks together with nothing in between on any hammer. There is cold texturing, and cold texturing. snipping to corners back into 1" square is very differnt to texturing 4 sides of 1" square. I might just be oversensitive to it because I come from a background of industrial forging, where you would get sacked immediatly if the foreman saw you striking stone cold steel.

Probably not Sam.