jimbob

I've cut several square holes in 1" plate and I found that 1/4 wide chisel works much better that 3/8 or 1/2 wide one !

only the top 1 1/2 to 2 inches is what is important to hold the tool that being said drill the top side to 7/8 and counter bore the bottom side larger, then heat in the forge and drift ...then your going to need two men and a boy to remove it from the fire

Lucas oil or bar chain oil both are tacky and stay on the gears.

I tried making a dishing tool from the pictures that were posted of one a year or so ago I could not get it deep enough,but after taking a class with Brian he pointed out to mushroom over the top part of the dish and then drive ball end fuller in to it it more or less form's itself. what I used for a ball fuller was a 2¼ trailer ball with a wire wrapped handle ...

I found this on the web it's good for determining how much stock to use for your hammer weight

have you tried the guy on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/1045-Steel-2-Round-X-4-Long-15-Pieces-Hot-Roll-NEW-/290378741042?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439bebf532

look at this one http://web.archive.org/web/20041014213636/keenjunk.com/sketchbk/rw21009.htm
and this one

thanks for the pictures ...I see another hammer in the making now...

I tried a 3/8-inch leaf spring die once and it was awfull. I guess I need a bigger leaf spring?

I will probably use it quite a bit, but not with heavy hammers or work. I use a 2 1/2# and a 3# hammer for forging.

Do you have any pictures of a spring device?

a spring to keep it open would be nice

go to tractor supply see if a the exhaust cap for a tractor might work ...

You can join 2 pieces of 6 inch stove pipe to make 12 inch.

Phil

Drop a steel ball on a good anvil and it'll bounce back almost to where it started. Now try that with a lead ball.

Drop a steel ball on a chunk of lead. Now drop a lead ball on a lead anvil. Boxing either in steel only protects the outside, the physics are the same.

You ever use a lead filled hammer? What's known as a "dead-blow" hammer.

Put the anvil together with a tube and a solid and some lead? You ever work on an anvil with a loose face weld?

Just some things to ponder.

I think your plan would make a better hammer than what you currently have. I also think a solid column of steel from top to bottom, per Dave's advice, would be even better. That's just my gut instinct on this.

IMHO, using tubes for anvils on treadle hammers is fine if you are only going to do very light work. If you want the ability to move metal more effectively for moderate forging, a heavier solid anvil will be significantly better. Personally, I would probably cut the existing anvil away with a zip disk and replace it with a solid round or square (5 to 6 inches). If you choose to beef the existing anvil up with "inside or outside" the tube support, I suggest the added steel support go from the base all the way to the top plate (no gaps). Use a saddle over your lower die to hold tooling on the bottom.

A few years back my guild(Ocmulgee Blacksmith guild) had a treadle hammer build we built this hammer http://brainfortunes.com/Treadlehammer/Treadlehammer.htm after using for a few years with mixed results I believe this hammer is in need of a couple of modification . at present it has 75 pounds of lead in the head ...problem is the bottom anvil side is just 4" square tube with a 1" plate with a hardy hole in it ...what I am thinking of doing is one adding a four inch spacer, as I believe we welded the 1" plates on top of the tubes (I believe they should have been recessed) this will give more room under the hammer. the next thing is adding weight to the anvil tube I was thing while I have the top cut adding the spacer to remove the 1" plate and drop about 30 inches of 3" square solid down it and pour lead around to make it solid then weld it all back together this should add about 100-125 pounds to the bottom anvil tube...any thoughts on this from you guys?

I lined mine with red clay the first time; it lasted about 20 years or so; then the last time I used fireplace cement from ACE hardware. the whole purpose is to insulate the cast iron from the heat so it won't crack ...I used mine unlined when the red clay fell out and that is what happened and I had to mig it back ...

there also the ones who always seen to set themselves up to be the authority on everything ...never knowing what someone else might show them

$20 a pound is bit pricey

you could also try Moscow hide and fur http://www.hideandfur.com/

Hey Jimbob that anvil is less than 200 pounds.

bout how much does that anvil weigh

Mark Aspery showed me and Isometric exercise that helps ...put your hands together at mid chest pushing against each other then point your hands down while still pushing ...do this a few times before you start work . seems to help me.

Glenn so sorry for your loss

they make a hold down like the vise grip type for your drill press I have one I had to extend the threaded part to fit my anvil