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I Forge Iron

matt87

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Posts posted by matt87

  1. Thought I'd share this link with y'all from Tim Lively's site. Looks like something one could make with wood scraps and an afternoon. Save a lot of time, money and trouble finding and 'original' one too -- time, money and trouble better spent on hammering iron, on buying coal and on convincing the wife that 'it's not junk it's resources!'

    Blower Plans

  2. I remember a story from a photocopier repairman. Librarian goes into work one day, switches on and uses photocopier, only to hear a hideous shriek and the machine grind to a hault. Repairman turns up, opens phtocopier, turns out a mouse had decided that the machine was a good bed, but ended up repainting his new home personally...

  3. For such a reactive metal the longevity of iron is amazing. On a dig last summer we were excavating on a manor house abandoned over 300 years ago and we were pulling all sorts of iron out of the ground; broadhead arrowheads where the barbs and socket were still intact; door hinges; over a hundred nails; I found a stick-tang knife in a few pieces in what was once a drain, and later someone found another, just missing the tip, just where I'd been standing a few minutes earlier. Probably the most amazing find was this. And all these finds were in a fairly acidic soil; no wood survived, just building materials like stone, plaster, mortar etc., metal, some shells (only a fraction) and some bones (most quite delicate). A fair amount of coarcoal though.

  4. Ah, a diamond chisel, that makes sense! The places I read never specified
    , just 'cut barbs on face with chisel'.

    I read an interesting alternatve method in Basic Blacksmithing by Harries and Heer; make a short spike out of the sma type of steel you're using for the face. Place the face on the body and use the spike to join the two, befor bringing the whole to welding heat and welding.

  5. I've read about welding a steel face to the iron or mild steel body of a hammer. Bealer and elsewhere talk of cutting barbs into the face so the two stick together physically before you weld them, but I've been unable to find any details of this or pictures. I'm curious how many one should put on a side, where exactly etc. Any advice out there?

  6. Johannes, that link indeed does make a lot of sense.

    My suggestion: big box made of wood (3 feet on a side). Stick a pipe through the back side to act as the tuyere and fill most of the inside with sand, ash, dirt, perlite or whatever you have or can get cheap, then you can shape the firepot (a hollow) to whatever size and shape you want. This is the basis behind most of the world's forges (North America is quite unusual in using bottom-blast).

  7. racer3j, I just compared your decription with this year's edition of Vaughan's price list. The 1-3/4 Cwt single-bick London pattern anvil that they currently offer matches almost all of your dimensions, excet that the face is listed as 4-1/4 wide and the overall height is 11-1/2. The weight is listed as 88.9K. Oh, and yes it is available in any colour you like so long as it's Record blue ;)

    Price, for reasons of interest/curiosity is GBP

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