littlemilligan

Thanks very much EricJergensen for your explanation, I was having trouble with the soaking thing. ThomasPowers, yes I can see now that working it till the colour is almost gone is to cold, I will not go below bright orange (very short working time, got it ).E.F. Thumann, yes you are right I did use the "s" word in my second post, but I was being moderated before that, and you can see the word was let through anyway, but yes I take the point that "g" rating is key.(still dont realy know why I'm on it though). And thanks heaps to you all for the feed back, it's very much appreciated and will post here after the next attempt.

Sorry folks, I could'nt find the post after I posted it ? I thought it was a non ferrous metal and so posted it there and then could'nt find it, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing in my case, therefore posted the question twice.

Okay, now I have it, Phil, yes I'm drawing it down in the square then rounding it off, and as soon as the colour is gone out of it I'm back to the forge (oil forge) . It only breaks down as I reach the last third of the taper and even then I only notice it when I'm cleaning it up ( so then it's out with the welder/grinder )

I'm reading something MOONY sent me about working temps and "soaking" what ever that means, and so will try again when I've come up to speed a bit. P.S. I can't show the actual cracks as I've fixed them up, but the photos were to show what I've been trying to achieve.

Can anyone tell me what this is about ? You have been placed on moderator queue. This means that all content you submit will need to be approved by a moderator before it will be shown

Just wondering if anyone can help. I am drawing down 2" 316 bar to a taper and every time it gets ratty. It gets cracks and delaminates and just feels like splinters.I am keeping the thing nice and hot but the more I work it the xxxxx it gets, HELP

I'm finding that the 2" round 316 bar always fracktures and splinters after drawing down under the hammer. I'm keeping it nice and hot but as I work it down into a point I can feel all the delaminations catching my hand as I feel along the taper. Any advice would be awesome, thanks Col.

good to hear all ok again  ,  ye its not always as it thinks it is ,  some times u have to go backwards to get forwards 

It's all good

I'm totally rapt in this thread, the last two video's, wow

Hi Adair, I'm so glad that you have brought this up as I would like to know how to make dishes out of plate up to 5mm thick. I tried with apposing forms in a press without any luck. I have seen it done with a foot operated treadle hammer at MOONY'S place. It has opposing forms fitted to it.

hi col did making the face hit together help 

 moony

Hi Glen, yes the advice about the small bias towards the centre worked beautifully, thanks heaps. :rolleyes:

Hello Colin

 

Been off the site for quite some time, shame on me

 

Did you get the hammer anvil free?

 

If not, you might find it is binding on a burr, or it needs to be spun about to allow for out of round

 

There used to be a large, tapered key fitted into the rectangular holes that go through both sides of the frame of the hammer and the mating rectangular hole in the anvil body. That anvil may be tapered at the bottom end, or it may have a square shoulder and a parallel spigot at the bottom end - you'll know if it is already apart and will know soon if not... The large tapered key was used to lock the anvil into the frame as, when it was driven into place, it bore down on the middle of the anvil against the lower surface of the rectangular hole and upwards on the hammer frame at each side in those rectangular holes. If the parts moved relative to each other a bit, and were left to rattle about, there could sometimes be some material movement which created a burr at the edges of the rectangular holes - all three holes that is. The result, the anvil might move a bit, but can't easily be removed. Hydraulics - hello John N - are a good way to keep the pressure on it, but be aware, the burrs may bind up very tightly and in a worst case scenario - from an over-zealous hydraulic application of force, 'bang', a cracked frame

 

Best to put it back in its hole and with a very bright inspection light check to see of there is anything in or around the rectangular holes preventing the anvil coming free easily. Long die grinder burrs may help get rid of any daggy nasties, otherwise you are in for some chiselling

 

If the anvil can be rotated whilst still in the hole, it may be easier to try this and see if it can be removed at different orientations. Sometimes there can be out of round interference too albeit with the anvil, frame or both - the hole in the hammer frame can be, all these years after they were made, oval slightly. You'd only need to miss that large tapered key once a year since c. 1930's to quilt the bejesus out of the hammer frame to the point that is will not release the anvil after all...

 

The most unlikely problem might be that it is to all intents riveted into the hammer frame. To check that we are talking inspection cameras up the wazoo with the hammer a little off the ground to try and see if there are any hammer marks on the bottom end of the anvil. That has been another issue I found with a hammer that had this sort of problem once upon a time. It had a separate anvil and tipping that upside down was fairly easy. Not so with your machine

 

Could be a fault in that casting too, a cast-in fault that is; I do know of that machine's interesting past experiences with Newtonian mechanics... So grateful Newton had an apple fall on his head, not a power hammer

 

Of course if that doesn't work, I'll give you five dollars for the hammer.... I can pick it up next week... please make sure it is clean...

 

Jim Deering

Thanks Jim, I think it's all over bar the shouting, and the anvil is once again sitting steady in the frame and the movement has stoped, cheers Col.

 this is just so sweat, would love to see more photo's if you have them ?

Thanks for that Bob, it is one of the few things on the net about working on alldays hammers.

I've started working on getting the faces flat and parallel, thanks Moony.

 And once again, thanks to all you good folks for the encouragement.

Thanks heaps you folks I really appreciate your help

Thanks Neil, I've taken Moony's advice and given up, I'll put up with it bouncing for now, cheers anyway.

Interesting that this has had 103 people look at the post and you Neil were the only one with advice, good on ya.

heres a clearer shot

I have used wedges to force the anvil up but I cant move it much more. The hole were the drift goes has bitumen coming out in lumps but although the anvil has come up about half an inch nothing in the hole seems to change, i'm stumped ?  Any ideas on how the anvil can be removed from this hammer?

Gates look awsome Glenn, hows your back ?

I would also like to thank all concerned for a great time and Phil for the one on one with the 55kg hammer " how to draw out a point, lesson 101 " Awsome bunch of folks at get hammered, so yes put me in for next time to please Dale.

G'day where in Gippsland on the main drag
.I'm going up the Monaro Hwy

Would love to think I could make it up to Braidwood at the end of Oct. Am wondering if any cars are going through Gippsland at all ?