Bimini Twist

I would imagine the larger, fixed blade remains in its sheath while the smaller folding blade is used. Conversely, the smaller blade remains folded while the larger is unsheathed for coarser or tougher work. Maybe cumbersome, but it solves the "double-ended" problem. Don't know what the sheath looks like, if it's easy to remove from a belt or whatnot. Interesting design anway. BT

I never put one on over metal, only wood. But the epoxy "dries" (cures) clear enough that fiberglass sheeting becomes invisible and the wood below shows through - even mistakes in the woodwork. On second thought, metal screws in the wood show through clearly enough that any marring of the screw heads will show through plainly, so I think it should work over metal as well. I would practice on sections of scrap first until I had the technique down. Otherwise a soaking in acetone is necessary to remove cured epoxy. Uncured epoxy (the standard two-part type) can be removed with plain white vinegar, since the epoxy acts as a base. It's quite a money saver if you have to do lot of work around the stuff. Takes it off your hands, too, and not as flammable as acetone. Hope this helps. BT

Epoxy/poly coating? Once fully cured it should be fairly inert. Multiple dipped maybe...to build up the coating. BT

How do I get them smaller? My resize feature on my end won't do it. Thanks, BT

Sorry about the huge photos. I tried to resize them per the directions, but they didn't take. The photo link said they were resized, so I don't know what I did wrong. Again, apologies... BT

Attwood Stourbridge Anvil I picked up an anvil (my first) at a flea market shop. The lady said she knew nothing about it, except it had been sitting in the back for years. I paid US$25.00 for it. It rings like a bell with just a rake of the fingernails. One side has “Attwood” on it (faintly) and directly below that, the word “Stourbridge” (also very faint). Below that are the large letters “FR” or “ER.” Possibly the first large letter could be a “P” or another “R” or something else poorly struck. The other side has various tool marks and a “1” and a “5.” I can’t make out the rest. The bottom is damaged. The top is fairly flat with just a touch of saddle in the center. Could this have been an old stake anvil with the lower section broken off? A search of the internet says it’s an English company but details are lacking on much else. I plan on having a section of 1 inch plate welded to the bottom to stabilize it for use in my shop. I just retired from the military this year and would like to take up blacksmithing and knife-making as a way to fend off boredom. I figure for twenty five dollars and some welding costs it should make a good starter anvil. Until now I had never heard of an Attwood anvil. Anyone have any ideas or thoughts? Thanks for any info and help. BT

Not a "hunchback" - although that's pretty accurate. How about a "Palmswell Bowie/Fighter?" BT