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I Forge Iron

mashin' metal

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Posts posted by mashin' metal


  1. I dont see many old ones around these parts, so back to the ford pile I went. Turned a F350 2wd int a 4x4, the one of the twin I beam parts looked close enough for a post, had a cast steel trailer linkage to make the jaws from, I'm thinking of just pouring babbit for the screw. The front jaw is on a half leaf spring that will set on a pivot, and attach to the other half pushing up the back, if that makes sense. I'll post another pic when I get back to it.


    cool man, kudos indeed.

  2. It’s too bad when that happens and the drill will no longer be in perfect condition. But you are a blacksmith and if it’s made of metal, you can fix it. Get some nickel rod and get to work. You will have it and use it the rest of your life and with history.


    exactly what I was thinking, strip it down, clean it up and get some nickel, it will live again and you can make the world turn smoother because you saved one. Don't let it go to scrap for that damage, its to old and deserves to be repaired, just think about it when your grandkids are using it and bragging about the repair made by their old assed granpop.

    edit; I likes the brass idea too
  3. I appreciate the kind words.
    its going back together this week. I tore it down to do all the powder work on it, hopefully I will have the tub completed this week also and hope to have it painted a sexy gloss red with a silver checkerboard firewall and scallops. I took a break on it to build a yamaha chopper with a zx-6 air ride blah blah blah, got it finished and sold and now Im back on the altered.
    I'll take some digitals this week of the assembly that drives it and stops it. Its crazy looking mixture of brackets, pulleys, cantilevers and rods etc etc, that way the clutch pedal also acts as a brake pedal and I even made little barefoot feet for pedals.

  4. It has a disc brake on the transaxle. I will use it at the shows I go to, I am into traditional styled hot rods and go to a crapload of shows, I'll put the 46 chevy on display and ride around in this.
    the mini-altered is supposed to mimick a late 50's - 60's altered dragster, I have small wheelie bars and a fake parachute I made for it also. It has a tuck and roll seat and I actually can fit in it to drive (6' tall 160#), I made a butterfly dragster styled steering wheel so knees out, hands in between and drop the clutch, it will yank wheelies and scare crap out of ya. electric start and just tool around. I had it on static display at the Lonestar Round-up in april and there are over 1,000 hot rods, I'd wager this was one of the most photographed critters there. Its probably in a few magazines already from that one show. Its just something to goof off with and keeps me out of the titty bars I reckon.

  5. indeed so, horizontally opposed 18hp briggs twin, belt driven to a set of pulleys(very small jackshaft) and it feed the differential from that. the foot clutch is a belt tensioner on the belt before jackshaft. if you look close, you can see the hoop that holds the bearings for half of the jackshaft hanging under the frame, driveline not installed in this photo. the zoomies are made from 1" and 3/4" conduit,
    The body is a wheelbarrow I chopped up, added a cowl and dash and "tubbed" it for the tires. electric start, forward and reverse, foot clutch, I made everything, its a suicide spring behind straight axle, real working suspension...blah blah blah
    Timothy

  6. On 8/22/2010 at 7:14 PM, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

    I see someone else had the same idea that I do about using a jackhammer. I was thinking about how one would work in a frame though, and used more like a power hammer, as opposed to freestyling like they do.


    wont work to swell I wouldnt imagine, a jackhammer works with its weight sitting on the piston basically, if you have it mounted solid and a cool shaping tool on the end and then when it does touch the hot metal, its gonna have to touch with a lot of pressure just to start going ape xxxx like its supposed to do and by then your hot metal is gonna be so blown out and distorted all over the place.
    If you do decide to rig one up, please video for us so we can enjoy it too. :-) I'm guessing you wouldnt have a lot of control over it real world, dunno though.
    Timothy
     

  7. On 8/26/2010 at 1:00 AM, Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver said:

    So someone gave HIM an anvil? What's an "MC forum"?

    yup, my buddy works in a scrap yard, he had 2 of these hauled in for scrap. I mentioned less than a week after he got these that I wanted a piece of railroad track to make an anvil and he brought me one, just happened to have my birthday forged in the side of it too ! [guessing it was a "meant to be thing"] I built the wooden base out of 6x6 and 2x12 and glued and nailed it all together, pretty solid and absorbs greatly!

    On another note, I went to visit his yard and almost cried when I saw the huge assed stack of monster lathes all piled and destroyed with their big pinching/shearers..... tooling and all tossed in the mix. He says they come from factories and such when they liquidate and then guys come in and haul what doesnt sell for scrap.
    On a plus side, I get to pick and choose of the finer metals that come through.

    Timothy


  8. Started a new hammer tonight, 1 3/4 inch square bar of 1060. Made a punching die for the press to make the eye, a stripper clamp to hold the workpiece to the press, and went to work. The press punched completely through the bar in 2 seconds....and stuck! The return stroke tore up the stripper clamp without removing the punch from the workpiece which tore up the punch die. All of which was ok as the punch went through crooked and the whole gizmo was gonna have to be rebuilt any how. But the press made a big hole real quick and real easy...:)


    just curious, did it go crooked or at an angle because of the small side plates allowed movement or have those done well to keep it centered.
  9. xxxx, 500+ views and no responses to help him.

    I'm not an expert, but would have to say, google is your friend for information. Hydraulic systems are not rocket science, its all about fluid control and the path you want it to take before it returns to the tank again.
    get on "u-tube" and watch all the videos you can on hydraulic presses, go to a local store and look at the small wood splitter hyd. systems. or even th etailgate lifts on some work trucks are electric over hydraulic, forklifts have hydraulics.
    There are a lot of places to look at and get an idea of systems, some like the log splitters are "self contained" having a small oil tank and motor/pump built in one unit and then hoses going to a valve for operation and ulitmately to a cylinder and then returned to the tank for recycling through.
    get busy in the junkyards and find a hydraulic pump off a tractor, some are mounted on the front of the engine and are easy to convert to a small gasoline motor or a 5hp or so electric motor.
    good luck with your project, I think with a little research you will find it easier than you thought.

    Timothy

  10. Hello, My name is Tim and I'm an addict.
    I am a full time powder coater, I have perfected the art of custom powder work via multi layering etc etc, for those that think powder is "one or two colors" anymore, check out my web listed below to see pictures of stuff that has over 20-30 layers of powder to create some wicked effects, I own a small biz and as a hobby I mess with traditional hot rods and I have been making things out of metal for a long time, but more over, fabbing with new metal and mig and torch etc etc etc.
    Things like this mini-altered roadster
    25431_1254118001739_1493243986_30560566_

    buuuuut, I have the itch to make stuff with a blacksmith mindset, and so it begins thanks to "Ulrich"
    I am in the process of building a serious 2 ram hyd. press and am doing a forge this weekend.
    I will be making most of my tooling myself and from that I will move on to bigger and better things.
    Thanks for having me! I will be soaking up the knowledge like a sponge!
    Timothy

  11. heeeey! thats me! Just had to share, The anvil has "Fisher" stamped at front of base also, the anvil has 1887 in approx. 1" numbers stamped at the waist back side, and right below that is a "2" and space and then "12" below that kinda hard to read, but on the base it has "Patent" and "apr" and "14" and "1877" hard to read... and below that [drumroll please] it has my BIRTHDAY, wrong year (1887?), but month and day stamped with 1/2" numbers into the rear base face. Is that the date it was made? I couldnt see 'em changing dates in the mold daily but what do I know.

    I would think the 1887 and the 1 and 12 below it is the casting date
    but I guess the apr patent date is when they figured the "special" way to forge top and bottom together for a "quiet" anvil?

    Thanks for the info and I'll do an intro in another thread.

    Timothy

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