Ulric
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Posts posted by Ulric
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Two anvils in Louisiana..
149# Mousehole(?)
http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/1938489264.html Farmerville
154# Trenton
http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/1938485776.html Monroe
Forge, farmervilla
http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/1938493301.html -
That's my take on it, or at least he 'retired' from making/selling knives etc.
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/27590
07/21/09QuoteIve had my fill and taken all the lumps I care to. Im just gonna lay under the shade tree and play my guitar from here on out. I'm officially retired as of now. Anyone want to buy a signed "Tim Lively" hammer? Or be the only one on your block to own the tongs I used in my video? Im out of this game brothers. I wish yall the best but Im going to be a rock star! Or not. Whatever.QuoteYeah, Im serious. It's been coming for a few years now. It was just hard to shake that monkey. I shut the website down to just video info already. This is my last post on any knifemaking forum so email me if you really want to buy my tools. They're nothing fancy, just worn out hand tools. Just like me. Its been real. Vaya con dios amigas! tim@livelyknives.com
Words to live by from the prophet Neil Young:
" If you want to pet that ole hound dog
make sure he ain't rolled in sh!t "
Peace, Love and Understanding!
Last Edited By: Lively 07/21/09 7:34 PM. Edited 3 times.
p.s. His video is still available, think you can d/l it for approx 9$. Not bad for the $, though I had some minor display issues that Im not sure is the actual recording/video or particular to my system. (a few times, video did not seem centered/orientated on the topic of discussion, etc). -
think he pulled all his stuff when he 'retired'... ran into the same problem. Found 1-2 posts regarding (adobe mix) it that I posted in a thread in the alchemy section.
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rcvd an email in regards to an estate sale coming up in houston, texas....
Anvil is of unknown origin at this point in time.
"On September 17th through 19th I will have an estate sale. At this sale will be several vises and one very large anvil. It is nearly 2 feet long and probably weighs in at 200#. If you are looking for a very large piece come out and see us at the sale.
I do not have prices marked yet and I cannot sell outside the sale. I can help load it.
Matt
Sale location:
Limco Building
2106 Dallas St
Houston TX 77003 "
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Aside from the coffee thing, I think you'be been pretty good. :-)
If I find something I'm seriously considering putting money for, ill say as much. I'm keeping an eye on cl, networking... caught word of a 200#
Coming up in an estate sale that I'm trying to get info on. -
I'm not rushing to buy anything, I stumbled on something a decided to try to find information on it.... think of it as akin to the harbor freight/Russian anvil stuff. If no one got curious, no one would have known about em.
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Good question....
I contacted MSC in regards to them...to which the only "information" they could provide was that it is in import item, from India. -
Tongs, gloves, and a low-speed / low impact press...?
That was in 2007 and I'm quite sure that he is still intact.
Well there's a another video from 2009, so they made it 2 years more at least.. :-) -
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I'm starting to wonder how Fischer would have done if they hadn't started producing anvils until the 21st century.
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Thanks.... I'm sure there is.
There's a location in Houston, think I may see if I can take a gender, ask some questions there next time I ride into/through town. -
Phil, I'm curious...what's the 'big book' list the prices as?
Let's see here now, that's a 66# anvil for around $200 not including shipping, that's extra, so that's about $3/#. For $200 you could find a "real" anvil for that or if you saved up you own weight, not mine, say you weigh about 150#, that'd give you $450 to go anvil shopping with. If you're one of them young fellows that drinks them expensive coffees at $3 a day that'd only take you about 150 days or so. A little sacrifice in life could get you some real decent smithing tools. Just a thought.
Interestingly enough, a 15-30 minute drive trumps, and is considerably cheaper than shipping.
What we have, is what is reputedly a 'cast steel' anvil, with little information about it. Hence the post, a request if anyone knew anything or had any INFORMATION about them.
Speculation, guesswork and snarky commentary isn't much in the way of information or assistance. -
not at all .
waaaaaait till you see all the hydraulic crap I have here now.
Lol, think I'm gonna have beg your permission to take a ride down south sometime and take a look at this Toybox of yours. -
and there he is...
Hope you didn't mind me posting that lil story up Tim. :) -
Anyone heard of, familiar with the 'NuLine' anvils?
44# & 66# respectively
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PMTYPE=KEY&SISMNO=16666527&SISHNO=14269144&SIPCNO=0002000917&SIZZNO=64140540&SIS0NO=1490247&SISRC=KG&SISRCH=5&SIT4NO=&SILEVL=3&SILSEQ=1&SIOR=
I stumbled across the name on a search, but can't find it again
and no information turns up on google searches in regards to it's makeup,
reviews etc. -
I'm glad for him, just found it humorous. He's keeping an eye out.
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Sorry.. M/C forum, as in Motorcycle Forum...
It appears my interest and process of building my forge, sparked his interest. He'd asked a friend
for a chunk of steel to use for an anvil at a scrap yard on his side of town, and the guy came back with
what they believe is a 160lb Fischer. -
I started the search for an anvil using a couple local MC forums I'm on...
It worked...sort of, I'd been keeping member updated on the forge status
when I posted about looking for a forge. A fellow member and cool guy, got his interest
peaqued(sp?) and... he got this for free...
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...again wanted to say thanks for the comments, found a local CL post last night
and picked this up earlier today instead. Seems to turn/blow fine, get's right
about 2 'turns' on it's own when you let go.
Not sure the best way to clean the outside...
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Unfired as of yet, working on an air source. Pit is 5 1/4" deep...
I'll fire it, do a test run and see if I need to cut out a section out of the wall
for a better height in the coals.
Updated 'forge' shot...& and where it's going to call 'home'.
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Thanks Ulric this looks interesting and I have most of the elements at hand for this
If i can find it again, there was a site (or 3) that told you how to check the soil/clay content for suitability.
Testing Soil
If you are not sure about the soil you want to use, there is a way to test it out. Fill a glass jar about 2/3 full of soil. Add water until the jar is full, and shake it for about 2 minutes. Set the jar down and let it sit overnight.
When you check the jar, the soil should be broken up into two distinct bands of dirt. The sand should be settled on the bottom with the clay on the top. There should be more sand than clay. A ratio of about 70 percent sand to 30 percent clay is ideal for making adobe brick.
I didn't like the...idea of waiting 3-5+ days for it to dry out on it's own, so... I set
the thing over a fire to dry it out. There are some nice cracks to fill in, and some of the thin spots
flaked (1/16-1/8 thick areas) but the rest is HARD/Solid. Once it's cooled down enough to handle, I'll make a thicker batch (first was a tad, wet) finish the fill in... dry it then try the slurry coat. -
Ulric; would you explain this lively adobe mix and clay/ash slip in more detail please ?
(my skull can be thick sometimes)...............
These are the only two links I have, found/stumbled on other sites and Tim's video provides some info in regards to it to.
http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_large_adobe_lively.shtmlNow, gather a few gallons of fine sand and a couple gallons of wood ashes along with an arm load of dead grass, dried moss or straw. Take one one of the buckets of cactus tea and add in one gallon of clay slurry, one gallon of sand and one gallon of wood ash. Mix thoroughly with a stick or something. Don't use your bare hands. The ashes in the mix along with the abrasive action of the sand will literally eat the skin off your fingertips. Use gloves when needed. Don't add any dead grass yet.
in trying this, after the mass adobe has been placed and dried that idea is try a ..thinner application of clay/ash/sand ratio mix over that.
None of these are in short supply around here much just needing a shovel and bucket to collect.
Trying to get the 'rocks' or, what I was raised to identify as 'iron ore' out of the clay
can be a bit annoying, but I've got plenty of time on my hands. :-)
Im using clay dug from a retention pond in the 'pasture', fine sand left from some concrete
projects, ash from a recent pile of logs/brush we burnt off and dried/shredded bamboo leaves
for the insulation layer.
slip/slurry coat clay a clay/ash...
If/when I get my cement mixer back, I want to bust up a toilet tank toss it with some large pipe fittings and spin it for awhile and see porcelain fines I can get out of it. If I can get a decent amount I may through that into the slip/slurry mix for a surface coat. -
Good enough sampling of replies, thanks folx. :-)
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Blacksmith-Forge-8-Blower-turns-freely-/110558380579?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
No screws to hold body together, no handle/crank hard and couples 'paddles' look like they
were patched, jb weld or epoxy maybe?
...but with shipping, 50$
My 'cheap' little forge.
in Solid Fuel Forges
Posted
My 'cheap' forge...
Bought the blower, nipple and 2 fittings. Rest was scrounged up in a relatives barn.
20-25 gal drum, adobe insulating layer. The nipple can be pulled out to be replaced.
Still tweaking a bit to get the cut-outs on front & back 'just right' in relation to
fire.
Scorched the back shelf when I had the other 1/2 of the drum on top. Plan on lining it (the top)
with insulation, mounting a coulpe loops and rigging a way to lift and lower it on the forge.
Since the photos were taken it's been moved to the back of the barn....