Smokin' Coke Forge

Hey Guys, Thanks for your input. I thought about turning the forge as suggested, but it weighs close to 300 pounds with the firebrick, and the part where the firepot is would end up outside the overhang. (I don't want rain mixing with the ashes then dissolving the bottom of the pot.) Looks like I'm on a quest for a thimble - great idea! I'll post a picture when I get the chimney installed, hopefully before it gets to cold. BTW - I found out that triple walled flue pipe is no longer avaialble in my area because it doesn't meet code anymore. Apparrently, triple walled pipe is air-cooled, and doesn't contain any refractory insulation like the UL listed double wall. Thanks again - Jim

I've used firebrick to surface my forge, rather than refractory material - much less messy (as if that really matters . . . this is blacksmithing after all) I did learn that if you will use firebrick, you don't really need the thick stuff. You can use the 1 1/4 inch bricks to save on weight without significant sacrifice on the heat protection. Also, definitely find a wholesale supply house to buy the brick from. I paid $1.45 per brick from a wholesaler, rather then $4.50 to $7.50 per brick from those theiving fireplace supply stores in my part of south eastern PA. - Jim

Sweany, I like the way you were able to work with what you had at your disposal to redirect the smoke form your forge. Ingenuity and creativity is one of the things that attracted me to blacksmithing in the first place. I'm thinking about how I might be able to use the way you've connectd your chimney to the forge. What puzzles me though is, if I were to model the base of my chimney after your example, it appears that I would still have the problem of smoke collecting under my roof and blowing back out in my face. Have you ever considered how to connect a flue to your chimney to increase the draft and direct the smoke higher? I'm also wondering if maybe there might be a way to create enough draft to be able to redirect the flue around my roof rather than having to cut a hole through it. Thanks, - Jim

Dave, I guess your suggestion about the double or triple wall pipe makes sense based on the amount of heat passing through the chimney at that point. The heat isn't a problem as it is now, but maybe the metal flue pipe will transfer what heat there is to the roof. I guess I was hoping for a way to not have to spend several hundred dollars to protect a 50 dollar roof. Thanks for your input. - Jim

Hi All, I have a homemade outdoor forge that sits inside a lean-to type shed to keep it out of the rain. The problem is that because of the roof on the thing, I spend a great deal of time with my head in the smoke. I'm looking for any suggestions for: 1. What type of hood to build? I'm leaning toward a side draft such as the super sucker or a half hood rather than an overhead hood. 2. Type of Chimney pipe for this application? Do I need double or triple wall flue pipe to keep from burning down the roof, or is single wall pipe sufficient? (I'm thinking straight up through the roof would be best, since there is very little clearance between the roof & the fence on the left or back sides.) 3. Suggestions for where to purchase 10" to 12" flue pipe of the suggested type? I haven't seen any at the local Lowes or Home Depot. 4. From what I read in other posts, 10' height seems to be the magic number, along with 4" above the peak of the roof. Which do I go with, and does the 4" rule apply in this type of application? Here is a picture of the forge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm starting to get information overload from trying to research this stuff, and somehow I don't think it needs to be as complicated as it seems. Thanks, - Jim