Torin

And the final down.

I made it to the convention, but neither I or my other non-mythbuster panel-mate were asked to join in. Didn't get to speak or to even talk to them. :mad: :mad:

Oh well.

I think I'm going to spend the day welding up billets.

Hey Larry! Good to see you here!

The flares I bought from you 8 years ago are still in very good shape. I haven't used them for about 5 years of that, but I just re-tuned my forge.

Hey Torin:
Congrats on the new grinder! Shame about the mythbusters though.
-Aaron @ the SCF

Thanks! I'll get a chance to watch the episode when I get home tonight and see if there is anything I can cover. It looks from what I've read, they are still ignoring the effects of repeated hits over time.

I'm also still invited to the convention, so I'll be going and at least I'll get to meet them...probably get to play up the fact my timing sucks .

Also got a nice compliment today...a friend of mine has told me that on close examination, my patternwelding is better than several makers that she knows. Apparently while I haven't made that much, I've make sure to follow instructions well enough that the material turns out better.

Now I just need to make more and put the grinder to work !

Hi Torin.
Looks like you ran out of time. I saw the new mythbusters tonite is on hammers revisited. Hope you didn't spend to much money on setting up your experament.
Unless of course you were one of the blacksmiths mentioned, in which case congradulations!

I didn't see it yet, but it says on the wikipedia site that it was re-busted.

However my wife just called me from work about it...apparently they want the whole hammer to shatter...

Most of the money I spent on it, has been able to be converted into a KMG grinder.

And I may still get to meet them.

Torin, are you the Torin from the weirdsmiths smelting crew?

Thomas
SKA wilelm the smith

Yep, that is me. Still have the wire basket s-hook you showed me how to make...what was it..5 years ago at Pennsic?

I tend to use Torin for all my online stuff.

Torin,

You are correct. Machinery's Handbook lists 52100 as a chromium furnace steel primarily used for bearings and race - not stainless. It may be more corrosion resistant than 1095 or something similar but it is not classified as a true "stainless".

And far be it from me to besmirch such a fine steel. It is a very good steel for knives. :)

300 series will not harden. 420, 440 and some of the high alloys like 52100 will harden. Austenitic stainless will not harden - martensitic will (guess which is which above... :-)

I don't belive that 52100 is generally considered a stainless steel. It has less than 2% chromium, and you usually need about 10% chromium to be a stainless steel:
Stainless steel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

When do you go out to lunch....

OTOH I like my Bader.

You are out of luck...I eat lunch at my desk >

And the KMG is an awful lot like the bader. Can't wait to try it.

Speaking of which, the 1095 and 15N20 arrived from Admiral today too.

I'll make sure to post some pics.

I'm using a 2hp motor with a Variable Frequency Drive to control the speed.

However, the baseplate is going to languish outside of Harrisburg until tomorrow. Then I need to wait for the tool room guy to drill the extra holes in the baseplate for my oversized motor. He is the second shift guy.

Which means it will be Thursday before I can try it out. :mad:

However it does look very nice on my desk here at work :D

Well, the KMG grinder I ordered showed up here at work a few hours ago. However the baseplate to mount it and the motor on still hasn't. It was shipped at the same time, but is last reported somewhere near Harrisburg PA (about 2 hours away). It still says that it will be delivered today though.

Once it is here, it will need to have a couple of new holes drilled, as I have a larger frame motor to mount on it than is standard.

That is more than a little scary.

I use a sacrifical chunck of high-alumina kiln shelving. I use this for my floor as well. Borax will eat away at it over time, but it will stand up a lot better than most refractory. After about 100 hours of forge time, I still haven't gotten to the point it needs to be replaced.

These are what I'm talking about:
Bailey Ceramic Supply - Kiln Supplies - Cone 11 Shelves & Posts

Or:
Spectrum High Alumina Cone 11 Kiln Shelves

They can be cut with a wet tile saw to fit in your forge. A single piece is usually enough to get 2 or 3 pieces.

Well, it does cut...

I still find 20 Mule Team borax in grocery stores and some hardware stores. Works great. I don't even bother melting down to the anhydrous state. Yeah it foams a bit, but not for long.

Originally welded this one up about 7 years ago.

With things being how they are I am actually thinking about doing some more classes on this sorta stuff...

JPH

That I would be interested in. Assuming my forge welding skills keep coming back. ;)

Does anybody have a place they like to get Ferric Chloride from *other* than Radio Shack?

By the way Jim, I want thank you again for having produced the video you did. The visual of what borax looks like at welding temperature is priceless.

Welding the billet up went mostly ok. I'm not that great at forge welding 1/16" and 3/16" stock. Especially with the 3/16" having a rounded top surface. As soon as my steel order gets in, I'm going to be switching over to .062" and .065" stock.

I seem to have lost my copy of your video in the last move or two. Anybody still selling it?

Darn...forgot to include 10xx & pure nickel.

Anyway, about to head out and weld up a billet of 1095 and L6. It is all I have on hand from a few years ago.

Well, the chart for what I got is:

http://www.waleapparatus.com/HTM%20pages/sf2transmission.htm

Here is a translation of what nm is what light:
What Wavelength Goes With a Color?

Looks like there are some better ones out there, but this should help quite a bit more than normal Didymiums.

Alternately, what ones do you like making the most? What ones have you made?

I just want to point out that there isn't a lot of UV that you will be getting from a forge, it is IR. UV will come from sunlight and arc welding.

I wear clear Safety Glasses and use the 1/2 size clip-on welding glasses that I bought from Centaur a few years ago. They don't sell them anymore... they sell some didydiddlesomething clip-ons for $127. However, you can go here and see what I'm talking about:

http://www.fendall.com/fendall/products/eyewear/filterlens_mn.html

The only place I could find on the internet that sells them now is here:

Scientific and Artistic

http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM237.pdf

It may not be your exact model, but it should be enough information to start with.

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