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I Forge Iron

ianinsa

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Posts posted by ianinsa

  1. Hi Fe,
    Nice die, these balls look like those old fasioned toilet cistern floats, Going into the potty Buisness? Hang on, you do Blacksmithing a buisness that has recently gone somewhat to potty. :D
    They would look great as a base for a weather vane!Stunning job, thanks for sharing.
    Ian


  2. Oh Ha Ha, my apologies, no sense of humour when dealing with techniques. I just wondered why it should have specifically been brass, when any ductile material can be used.

    Having said that, I understood the term freezing the 'balls off a brass monkey referred to cast iron cannon balls stacked on the grills on His Majesty's Royal Navy's fleet when they were colonising the globe amongst other tasks, and they froze together in to one mass which then proved a danger in high seas

    I would like to point out that I may be getting on a bit, but did not have actual experience of this phenomenon, just hearsay.


    Hi John,
    As an ex gunner I can tell you that the 'brass monkey' refered to is/was a lipped brass tray fixed to the gundeck designed/gauged to hold the base of a piramid of cannon balls i.e. 5 x 5 balls the lip extending just over half the hieght of a ball. This lip was intended to be a tight fit to prevent the piramid collasping due to wave motion. The thermal shink co-eficient of the brass was greater than the iron and thus in the colder climates the tray shrunk and popped out the balls, hence the term 'froze the balls off a brass monkey'.
    Ian
  3. Hi,I do'nt mean to be a kill-joy, but I have an old H frame press(home made) that we picked up at an auction some years ago! Somebody spent a lot of time and effort to make that one. They wasted their time, it just does not compare our fly presses even with similar threads etc.
    We now just use it as a glue press. Please rather save for the right thing rather that 'waste' it on something that might or might not work. Incidentally when we bought it we thought that it looked functional and well made, wich it is despite not living up to its looks.
    Ian

  4. On a lighter note!
    'Mailely Bob's account has NOT been flagged for moderation' if it looks vaugely like he might attack you?
    Hit him back first!!!!! ;)
    Glen, I'm impressed at your ability to lit it roll like duck's water off your back. Most including myself would have just 'hit delete' on the profile and never bother to let them back. End of story/problem.
    No offence to Mainely Bob of course :D
    Ian

  5. Hi All,
    If something like this ever happens to you(and I hope it doesn't) Don't stuff around and go to the doctor, Go to the nearest opthalmic surgeon they might cost a dash more but this is a GOOD SPEND! If you are ever going to make one(guess how I know) ;) . Also a good 12V electro magnet(the maglock kind) in the shop is a quick way to get ferrous matter out of your eyes.
    Ian

  6. I have a Bosch sds max demolition hammer that came with a 'bush hammer boss' and it does a mean job of 'texturing ' steel hot or cold. Sadly despite its power it's very heavy and you can only use it if you are standing over the work. We've played with it and have decided that it could be a great tool for use when you need to claim off workmens compensation, otherwise it is somewhat limited from a blacksmithing point of veiw(It's brilliant at demolition). We regularly find inovative uses for our air hammers and as they are so cheap we see them as chuck-away tools so no one(that's me) gets upity when they get abused!
    Ian

  7. Hi All,
    I agree, these blades definitely are the 'way to go' I have drilled a small hole in the side of the blade guard of my saw and I fix an airduster(pencil type ie. no triger)to it with a cable tie this blows the hot chips forward and away from me and the cooling effect on the blade helps(if small)with tool life. One could possibly jerry up a oiler to dispence a soluble oil/water mix as a cutting fluid but as I don't do this that often(relying on our guiloteen)I have never bothered.
    Ian

  8. Hi All,
    We have regularly made wrought rails for projects the largest of wich is the 5* Royal Livingstone Hotel in Zambia:
    For rails one needs to consider smooth sliding and the best for this is a wax Polished rod/tube with rings formed from twisted bar formed into a ring with a small ring welded on below(90deg) into wich the curtain hook goes. This allows for the use of standard curtain hanging systems. The better types have height adjusting systems built in, this allows for adjustmemt when the curtain 'stretches' under its own weight(and ocasionally shrinks when washed ...don't ask). The distance from the wall should be at least 3" if the material is heavy this is to give a 'Full rich' look. If you look at standard systems the cheaper the product the closer to the wall.
    Hope this is of use!
    Ian

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