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I Forge Iron

ianinsa

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Posts posted by ianinsa

  1. sorry . i missed the last two posts , in the past pels used to respond to and help with enquiries , but alas no more!

    As for feed/ drop plates/tables we bolt them on as needed as i have  some unresolved space issues 500 SQM. seems smaller than i remembered( i recon old age is the problem and not too much stuff) my dearest begs to differ on that though.

  2. this discussion has been interesting, and i for one concur with marc . however being a blacksmith i'm cheap err frugal, and have found that the bath oil found in the dollar store type shops works very well and gives an easy clean up afterwards. sure it's not tap'o'matic or the like but for DIY type use it works really well. in our thread cutting machines we have used canola oil with great success

    For Frosty, i regularly give knifemakers a short course on the drilling of hard steels and it goes as follows 1) use a masonry bit. .2) fit a diamond tile cutting disk into your 4" baby grinder(is that what you call a peanut grinder?) 3)sharpen the masonry bit like a hss bit with the diamond blade the slotted ones work but smooth is preferable.4) now drill at a low speed using water(lots of it) as a coolant the steel stays hard and the hole gets drilled. it's as easy as making a mistake:D  P.S. for those who want to DIY drill S/S try using hand cleaner(flyght,mitgrit, ect.) as a coolant and lube and you can use HSS drill bits at very slow speed.

  3. should you be a jesuit monk who is into self flagellation then i would guess that  the flowers are a good way to start:D that said a few years ago i used some monel welding rods to create some nice jewelry items .they were popular due to the exotic material description  rather than the "look"

     

  4. i have some of his(well replicas:D) ladder backed chairs, the design causes them to be somewhat top heavy which is prone to surprising folk that hang jackets/coats on them(these are chairs that were designed for a tea room go figure! they are however surprisingly comfortable . he definitely was a design icon and that must be a wonderfull book.

  5. hi, my suggestion would be to pop your vice in a large polyethylene  (plastic) bag and add some vinegar say 2L /half a gal the cheap kind. now immerse your bagged vice in a large bucket of warm water. warming the acid(vinegar) will jump-start the process and the water displacement will mean that you need much less vinegar , leave it like that for a couple of days then take it out and powerwash. after this you should be able to strip and use electrolysis reusing the vinegar. Good luck 

  6. it's easy for frosty to think outside the box , cause most of the time he is probably standing on it ! hence the head and shoulders above the rest!:D

    WrT. the decorative junctions we used to make silicone molds of those having added a sprue from the standard silicone tube and cast them in lead or aluminium  in situ  for decorative effect.  if you play with recasting in wax cutting in half with hot wire and mounting onto your warmed bars then coating with  gypsum reinforced with a bit of glass fibre mesh(for ceiling joints) melt out the wax and dry with a hot air gun  you can cast them in brass. wich looks really good too.   

  7. i find this thread quite interesting , here seems to be an industry belief that Architects /engineers should " know their stuff" as it were. this might well have been possible 40-50 years ago but today its just not possible , take just one small segment of their game ie. paint , the reps from the manufacturers can barely keep up with "their" brand  let alone 5 or 6 brands. technology  and chemistry is changing/evolving (and not always for the better) legislation and "best practice" is also in flux , then also mutch of the cad /drawing and specifying packages are self scripting  its hard to keep up and stay on top of it all.    

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