Sky Campbell (somewhere)

Looks great. I love texture and the way you get it for free makes it even better. I look forward to trying that myself one day. For some reason I feel like I need an iced tea now.

Not chemically but if you take the scrotchbrite to it directly out of the quench it will all come off. You have to keep it wet or it seems to adhere. second idea again not chemically but bead blasting gives a nice finish. I know that didn't answer the question but after dealing with it myself this is the best I have to offer.

Yes AL2O3 is aluminum oxide = alumina. Sorry Matt not trying to propagate misinformation. I also said heat to working temp I should say heat to working temp of castable for maximum strength and insulating value. I'll reread before I post next time.

Alumina not aluminum. I would consider castable. I have had great sucsess with kastolite 3,000 plus. It has good insulating value minimal silica and 80% alumina. I have heaters that are going on 15 years with kastolite. Second would be the old stand by mizzou it has no insulating value but you probably will back you brick or castable with fiber anyway. Mizzou is bomb proof and you wouldn't have to worry about flux eating it. I like to build forms and cast them like a large brick. You then build and fire in place. It's not sintering which is heat and compression but you will need to drive out water in combination. Chemically bound water in the castable. Heat up slow then after you see no more steam go for it as hot as you think you will be using.

FABA in Barberville: http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/zz251/gainesvilleglass/480d7d86.mp4

Yes bag balm! I've never found anything better. One thing I've done in the winter when it gets bad is keep one pair of gloves greasy with balm. I grease my hands up and wear my devoted gloves usually while doing tractor work or something I won't need dexterity for. Hasn't been to bad lately but when it happens it just seems to get worse and worse until I get proactive. One of the guys that works here greases up his hands then puts on rubber gloves. Cutting and grinding glass with constant water will put a hurtin on you if your not paying attention. I do think standing in front of the forge and dealing with hot stuff is a big part of the problem. Price of admission.

IR is the chief hazard, and requires special filters that provide IR absorbtion (usually iron in the glass). IMO in forge working you should use a filter that provides at least 90% IR absorbtion (between 950 nm and 2500 nm). This is equivalent to Welder shade 2.0. If you run your forge extremely hot, you may need a shade 2.5 or 3.0. Just to clarify Didymium does not filter IR it will filter uv and sodium flare but no IR filter. They are considered a dichroic glass meaning two colors. They will look rose colored in incandescent light and green in fluorescent light. (sorry this is a old school glassblowers lens so I'm very familiar with it) Here is what I googled. I think as a cheap all around filter for forge work this will work: http://www.publicsafetycenter.com/uvex-genesis-xc-safety-glasses-2.0-ir-filter-lens.html I understand polycarbonate lenses will fade over time so glass lenses are prefered for the long haul. I think the poly lens will get scratched up over time so most people will replace them every year or so anyway. If any one is looking for a prescription lens with a filter I can make several recommendations.

Hot glass led the way that and a very inspirational friend. Now I just can't get enough. Spent my day playing with large fold formed elements that tell me they want to be a new wine rack. That was after I installed my wifes new forged pot rack. Oh the places you will go.

I Learned a neat trick for the quarter mokume will visiting Steve Bloom's shop. You can drill or punch the quarters and run a piece of copper rod thru the stack. Then after you cut and upset the ends of the rod it holds together really well. We used the treadle hammer for welding the stack but I would be tempted to use the power hammer to make it thin enough to fold over on itself. Drilling the little divets makes a great effect but would like the try for more of a damascus look.

Thanks Mitch. Please do stop by if your in the area. FABA was a great lead. I just found out the local meeting is pretty close to me tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it.

My name is Sky Campbell and I'm a glass blower by trade (15 years). Most of my glass work I do is out of the furnace. The local college use's our facility and we offer many classes in all the facets of hot glass. I have some experience in forging metal and use the glory holes in the glass shop to double as forges. I recently acquired a huge post vise and a nice old fisher norris anvil a little better then the aso I was using. I'm building my first power hammer and extremely happy to stumble on this site. I'm busy reading and learning but I'm sure I'll have a few questions along the way. My interests are in cold forging nonferrous metals and working iron with glass for outdoor sculpture. If anyone is near by or heading past Gainesville on I75 please stop in for a visit. one of my favorite quotes from my dad: "those who say it can't be done should get out of the way of those doing it"