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I Forge Iron

JohnAspinall

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Lexington MA, USA
  • Interests
    Complete metalworking newbie looking to get informed. Possible goals include making my own tools for woodworking and metal spinning.
  1. Bigger items need more current. I think the right way to specify this would be the current per unit area. (That would be area of exposed surface being de-rusted.) This site: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm, which has a lot of good info, suggests 1 milliAmp per square centimeter.
  2. That is first-rate work! Can you say more about the openings/doors? I think I see at least three different shapes in the pics -- a large square, a small square (at the back), and an upside-down "T" shape. Are they interchangeable?
  3. Well, I'd better provide a finish to the story. Iron Clad has a good eye. The face had good ring and bounce towards the hardy; "thud" and little bounce in the depressed area towards the horn. I got it for $100, figuring that at some time in the future I might have it refaced. In the meantime, it will do fine for me. Thanks again, everyone, for all the advice. - John
  4. Thank you all for your comments. (And fast too!) I haven't seen it "in the flesh" yet, but based on the early responses I think I'll take a drive to see it in the next day or so. - John
  5. I'm a total newbie, and the anvil in the pic is available fairly cheap (on a $ per pound basis, at least). Your opinions would be welcome. - John
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