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I Forge Iron

jayco

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Posts posted by jayco

  1. Here's a trick I use in the shop to keep the heat from the forge out of my face when it's really hot----Take a piece of scrap sheet metal(old roofig metal is what I use)...cut it---say--10in. by 20in.---bend it in a semi-circle or "C" shape---just so it will stand on edge....cut a slot(think mousehole) to insert stock into fire.Merely place on your forge. This heat-screen will deflect some of the heat.Of course, you'll have to look over the thing to see your fire ,but it is easily removed.Use tongs---It'll get hot!!

  2. I learned my lessons about working in hot weather from old men in corn,hay, and tobacco fields.They moved with slow deliberate,measured pace. They didn't fret or worry about the heat, but merely accepted it. TRy to avoid the urge to drinks large quantities of ice water---that always made me sick. I take breaks---hunt a shade---rest. I got heat sickness once---felt puny and sick for 2 weeks. It wasn't worth it,just to chop down those last few weeds!

  3. I can't seem to get a fire started very easily. I'm using lighter fluid to start it but it doesn't work well. I think I need to get the coal smaller if so I don't know how big to get it. As you can tell I am just starting out and need some help.:confused:


    You said something about using lighter fluid.That could be dangerous! If you have a small fire( not burning well) ,and squirt some more fluid on it,the flame can and will follow the stream back to the can...and your hand!The safest way I know to start a fire is with a match...Do it SAFE!!!
  4. Hoary, if you want to try side- blast on the hitachi---look at Glenn's BP0238 blueprint. You might not even have to make a hole for the air inlet.---Yeah, the baked enamel might get hot and pop off as tiny shrapnel, so be careful---wear safety glasses!

  5. Welcome Blademaker! Welcome to IFORGEIRON! There's lots of nice folks here.Lots of other bladesmiths to compare notes with....Live blueprints on tuesday nights...check out the chat,too....both are fun and informative......Enjoy!!

  6. Welcome Adam......come on in.There are lots of nice folks here. I've only been here 4 months myself,but I've been having fun and learning at the same time.That's cool!If you've got any questions,just ask. There is a great 'smithing' knowledge base here. Enjoy!

  7. If I remember correctly from my school days,the draft of a flue is caused by high pressure air at the bottom and lower pressure air above the top of the flue.  A kind of thermodynamic engine is created.  Of course, heat rises.  The flue pipe merely channels and amplifies (with the help of the fire) this natural tendency.  A straight vertical flue is the path of least resistance for hot smoke.If the flue is 10" to 12" inches across and extends through the roof peak,rarely are there problems.  But, if your shop is in the basement or garage,you may be forced to use elbows,tees,and horizontal pipe sections. Only the vertical sections of flue"draw" or act as an engine.  Elbows and horizontal sections are acting against the draw. i.e. creating restriction to the flow.  Depending on size and height,  the flue can only pull so much. So, too much restriction may = smokey shop!  This certainly not all there is to this issue, but it's all I have at present.  If anyone has more information about flues I'd appreciate it!

  8. I've got a question: Those lowly wire brushes that we all use and take for granted; I always thought they were a fairly modern invention.Maybe not.?I know that maybe 500 years ago,there was no factory made wire to make brushes with. So,how did medeval smiths remove scale from their work? I'm just curious .anyone have any info?

  9. Hi everybody! im a jack-of all-trades kindof guy fromeastern ky.Ifarm,weld, carpenter, andsmith a little too.I like this site! I'm always looking to learn something new. That's why i'mhere. Maybe I'll even learn to type! Looking foreward to meeting you all on the chats.

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