hammerandtongs

Thanks for the reply/s Please could some one explain to me what a clinker breaker is, excuse my ignorance. Im assuming its some sort of auto mechanism? I am actually using Smithies breeze coke not coal, sorry if I was a bit unclear on this. I have taken on board the comments about the xtra slag produced by Damascus billiting. I will probably nee to carry on with the side draft at least that way all I need to do at the end of the day is cool off the fire and dig out the slag. However id be really interested to find out about these kinker breakers should any one have some pictures, maybe its something I could make/ tHANKS FOR YOUR REPLIES AND INTEREST rEGARDS hAMMERAND TONGS.:)s

Hi Guys and Gals,Side draft or updraft which one should I use. I have a question to ask regarding the merits/ disadvantages of side draft and updraft air supplies to my coal nut forge. I am a hobbyist knife maker and have for a while been using the side draft into the fire pit and have behind the pit placed an arch of fire bricks to refect the heat.Hope you can imagine this. Ive been reasonably happy with this arrangement untill the last time I was forging at a friends house. My friend has more forging experience than me and does some really neat damascus work ( although in the main he uses a gas forge for this). On the day at my friends house we did some forging of damascus billet using an updraft in to a coke nut fire. I must say I learnt one xxxx of a lot that day about fire pit management. Mainly because to get enough heat into the billet you are working with the billet well burried and cannot see it, and have to have good management of the fire pit. The only problem that we had was that because we where heating up the billet repeatedly for the bash and folding , the grate in the bottom under the fire pit kept getting blocked up with slag.:mad: Im in the process of fitting an updraft grate to my forge but im wondering am i going to spend most of my time unblocking the grate when forging high carbon steels and also having a go at Damascus. Should I just stick to my side draft air blower arrangement. ? What are your experiences with each can I still get as good fire rit control with the side draft, or does the updraft give me more localised heat which I would seem to need for Damascus work. p.s. I have not got a gas forge so im willing to persivere with the coal forge for Damascus. Any advice greatfully recieved. Many thanks Hammerandtongs:)

Hi Ive now got the said item. The top block (seperates from the lower 6 inches by 6 inches by 6 inch base) is a hardened and machine ground block-measuring 4 by 4 inches by 2.5 inches high.. shows fine dull yellow sparks the top block shows no impresion when a centre punch is hammered onto the top face. The lower base part has a cast middle with a thick steel plate about 1/2 and 3/4 inch thickness sandwiching the casing. Internal support flanges cast in the inside of sandwiched casting. Weighs about 40lbs.Not sure if I weld the whole thing together top block to base it would withstand the blows if used as a post anvil? IM guessing that a casting is not the best to resist shocks being transmited ? What I wanted was a post anvil. Regards Ivan Thanks for your replies thus far.

tHANKS FOR YOUR REPLIES GUYS. I can honestly say if this turns out to be a riser block and not a small anvil Im going to be pretty disappionted.I hade intended to use it as a striking face anvil i.e. used as a small portable anvil. Guess ive only myself to blame .Having said that the discription did include the word anvil. Seems like I may have purchased a riser block and not a small brick type anvil. Sill maybe I can harden up the top if it turns out to be too soft ..... Regards Ivan (H&T)

Very original design AND very nice work, how did the snake get out of the handle? Regards H&T

:confused:Hello Guys and ladies, I have just purchased a small post anvil from ebay and I AM TRYING TO FIND OUT ANYTHING ABOUT ITS ORIGINS OR HISTORY. Has anyone come across one of these before? Dont know if it is ministry of defence or war department item, this info in the description may just be a red herring. Any help would be greatfully recieved Thanks Ivan (hammerandtongs) IT was DESCRIBED AS FOLLOWS: square topped anvil block that looks to be unused. Item has no markings or casting marks, came with other old X WD MOD tools that were put away in storage 50 to 65 years ago. All edges are sharp and not marked. A book of matches gives and idear of size. Bottom 6 x 6 x 6"inches,( 15 x 15 x 15 cm, ) Top 4 x 4 x 2.5" inches, ( 10 x 10 x 6.5cm ) very heavy item 20kg.

Sorry jake if its too small to be any use my appologies Ill try to do something with the image but did not have a lot to work with. Regards H&T tHANKS FOR YOUR INTEREST jAKE.

Good evening guys I have just aquired some Blacksmiths bellows see attached photo link. Can any one shed any light on what type these are. I am told that the leather is good but will need some treatment and reconditioning can any one recommend what leather product is best to use to bring new life back into the bellows. Many thanks any advice greatly recieved.H&tONGS 2nd photo is enlarged

Hi Dan, If I dont use coke would what would you suggest I use in a ground forge. Thing is I havent any long term experience forging with charcoal although I understand that it can be used Is there any other fuel that I could use, dont want to over complicate things. Ive just got hold of some old blacksmiths bellows which are foot operated-hope to use these for the forging demo.(in which case I have the oportunity to use the forge tray which is above it. Need to recondition the leather on the bellows -what should I use for this guys any suggestions greatfully recieved. Regards H&Tongs.

Glenn Thanks for the thumbnail and line with ash advice-makes sence to me Great idea to give the forge away at the end of the day-I kinda had a similar idea in mind if I could collect an old BBQ from the junk yard-this forging is contageous.....Thanks Irnsrgn-Your portable miners forge sounds interesting-will follow up with some research. why did miners need such a piece of equipment -was it to repare shaft supports or for repair of mining tools and equipment, I wonder, will make for some interesting research. Evfreek I agree parts should be ready (tried and tested before the demo-guess this will avoid the dreeded 'demo effect' which ive experience quite a few time in my life at work on doing exhibitions etc, if you follow my drift. Great idea to control the air volume with the cone from the used pcamping cylinder-good consept-one of the guys voluntered a leaf blower -I could see the air being reduced nicely using your concept-Thanks Bruce-Nice and simple I like-easy to source components from the Junk Yard hey we are talking the same language.Thanks Thomas Keeping it simple-good advice which I shall use. Many thanks for you time and interest guys ill keep you posted on any developments and pictures from the demo day-I cant wait Cheers H&tONGS

Good evening guys, I would welcome some advice on building a small ground forge, to burn blacksmiths coke nuts. I have volunteered my services to give a knife blade forging demo to a small group of my friends. The demo will take place in the local forest (away from trees). There will be a small blower available if required. Basically I want to build a small ground forge as simple as possible-will have to remove it after use. I hear that there can be quite a lot of heat loss into the surrounding ground if not properly insulated. I have a number of white soft fire bricks that I could use for insulation if need be. Any help on dimensions and sketches would be great. Unfortunately I will not have time to get the ground forge right on the day as Ill only have time for the blade manufacture . Any advice from those of you who have experience of building ground forges would be of great help. Also any of the pitfalls which I should look out for. The demo is on the end of September so I have time to get all the raw materials together. Im sure all the guys Iknow are looking foward to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Hammer and tongs

I have collected the anvil here are some photos After a four and half hour return trip and a bit of work sanding off the surface rust I was quite pleased with the result. Thanks for the great interest in this thread which i have found very helpful and informative in coming to the decision to buy this second hand anvil, which I do not regret. Looking foward to some hot metal bashing Best regards Hammer&Tongs

Guys, The majority opinion seems that this anvil is worth a visit and if its half as good as it looks it will be a bargin. Im going to have a look at it this week. Ill let you know how I get on. H&tongs

Hi Guys Clarke-kenski-its not that cheap the guy wants equivalent of $2oo for it and its 120 miles away .Why do you say that I will not be happy with it-some experience you have had? Im beginning to have doubts but im being told at this end that these go for between $200 and $300 in england. These things seem to fetch silly money. However that said the seller is going to send me more photos of the striking surface then I guess its decision time. Shame its 3 hours or so drive away. Thanks for the advice any way guys the jurys out on this one I think. Thanks H&TONGS