LDW

This pic of the blade may be a little better. I dyed the sheath, then after it dried suberged it in parafin and mink oil paste that was heated to 180 degrees. Thanks fellows, for the kind words.

I went by a crafts store and picked up a leather stamp, this is my second attempt at decorating the leather. This sheath took me about 5 hours to make. The knife is a 14.5 inch long cable knife made from 1 inch diameter cable. I did not etch it very long, just enough to see the pattern when it is in your hand.

Good going, Thats a good looking knife, your off to a good start.

Sorry I had push rod on my mind.

It would be easy to forge the rods but I would hate to have to put a hole all the way through them so the oil can get through em'.

I have read in the past that the M stood for copper, I could not find on the web where I read it but I will.

After you etch and neutralize if you will take sandpaper and lightly sand, this will highlight areas. Do this sanding with whatever the finest grade was that you used when you did the sanding prior to etching. This is when it makes everything stand out. You can also use a hair drier on the blade after neutralizing to "set" the black color, once dried you can then spray it down with WD-40 or any light weight oil. Some of the black is going to come off no matter what you do. I mainly work with cable, therefore the etch I do is deep enough to create raised areas, this light sanding really stands out on a deep etch. Good Luck

That was some fine vittles.

Here is a link to the pics of our Christmas Party.

Picasa Web Albums - Lyle - MFC CHRISTMAS...

I found this pic,

This is indeed called a friction folder if you do a search you will find a lot of different styles of them. This one was made from cable. The original "pocket knife". I have only made three or four of these. Thanks for the kind words.

This is one I made after MS Terry Vandeventer did a demo. I think the hardest part of this is cutting the slot in the antler and getting it straight. This one has a brass pin and some little copper washers under the pin where it is peened.

Here is a link to the poison control center give them a call.

Find Local Poison Centers

We got a lot accomplished today. Installed 6 super suckers with 12" stacks. Here are some pics.
Picasa Web Albums - Lyle - Work day at t...

This is who we used to buy silver from when I worked in the plating
business. Silver anodes for electroplating - Technic Inc

In my experiences with cable it requires a much deeper etch than damascus because all the steel is the same. The pattern you end up with is due to the individual forge welds that take place between each of the many strands. I have heard this referred to as de-carb lines. I have used ferric chloride in many different dilutions with water, the strongest being 50/50, as well as using vinegar and ferric mixed 50/50 I have done it for hours taking it out every ten minutes or so to remove the oxidation, I was told the black looking oxidation hampers the etching process. I have found that muriatic acid is much quicker and if you heat it first to about 140 degrees F it gives you a totally different look, as well as makes it work even quicker. This is some nasty stuff though, due to getting it on your skin as well as breathing the fumes so I would not recommend it unless you are familiar with working around such harmful materials. I usually set a glass container inside another container that contains heated water. To me a deep etch on cable looks better than a shallow etch. I am sure what you were using would do just as well it just takes time. Make sure there is not any oil on it before you start etching.
LDW

Avadon, those were all good questions and like Ian said it strictly depends on what you need them for. The video I attached worked well for me. The first pair I made after watching this video was made with 3/16" x 3/4" I clamped the ends together with vice grips and worked both pieces at the same time to the back side of where the rivet was going to be. This way both pieces would be the same. You need to get to be very efficient in making tongs since they are going to have to be made pretty often till you get enough for most of your requirements. I have been hammering on hot steel for about 9 years and the tongs I made from watching this video were the first ones I was actually proud of.
YouTube - Forging Blacksmith Tongs

It looks great and has a clean line. You mentioned heat treat, what will you heat treat it in? I messed up and told a fellow I would make a machete for him that is 37" long. I guess I will heat treat it using a propane forge and a torch at the same time. The holes for the handle have been drilled and the next step I need to do is heat treat. This thing is massive and I am lost on getting the whole thing hot.
LDW

Here is a post similar to yours. We just bought 6 of the super suckers to put on the forges in our shop at the Agriculture Museum for the MS Forge Council, and are about to install them.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/coal-forge-hood-3229/

There will be a December meeting. It will be Dec. 13th this is our Christmas Party and would be a great one to come to. It will not be far from you. It is at a members house off of Ratliff Ferry Rd. I think it is on Lone Pine. Send me your address and I will get you the info. ldwynn@gmail.com I will be demonstrating how to make a knife from cable with a cable handle.

Saturdays meeting will not be held at the Agriculture Museum, instead it will be held in Jackson at Steves, shop on Mill St.. He is going to be demonstrating the uses of the fly-press. His shop is Magnolia Ironworks.

LDW

Welcome aboard Anthony, good to see a fellow Mississippian. Whether you are getting started or been hammering for a lifetime your at the right place. We have a thread for the MS Forge Council on here, if you want to check it out.
Lyle

If you go to McMaster-Carr website and look at the Hammer-In Alligator Conveyor Belt Lacing, It is made in small enough sizes that you can cut it to length. I only used it on conveyors years ago but it seems like it would work.

You can make a v-block to fit in the hardie hole, but without one you can use the step of the anvil. You have to get the cable hot enough to tighten first to remove all the air space.( I tighten by continuously turning and hitting on the step using light blows) this is done so you can get a nice even heat when welding. Remember to only put the part you want tightened or welded on the anvils step. The first objective is simply to get the tip welded together. There is no telling how much cable I ruined before I got it welded (the first time). Good Luck.

After looking at Ed's website and taking some advice I decided to experiment and etch the cable a little longer.


This blade was etched with ferric chloride and really made the decarbed lines stand out.