herchammer

O.K., I've decided against refractory cement casting. I was wondering, however, what you all feel is the best depth and overall dimension of your ideal fire-pot?

John

Great information! I have much to consider now. I have neither the tools, nor the skill to weld up my own firepot, but I may have it done at a local fab shop.

I had wondered about the firing of the refractory cement, and thought it might be a problem to control the temp to give it a slow enough rise. Thanks everyone, for the great feedback.

irnsrgn, the why is merely a question of alternatives to what I've seen. I would love to purchase a manufactured fire-pot, but I am interested in economical alternatives. I thought perhaps a refractory cement casting, or a refractory brick constructed fire-pot might be a viable alternative. Any thoughts on this? I have a brake drum from a large tractor, but I was really curious about the other possibilities.:confused:

I have questions about fire-pots cast from refractory cement. Is this the proper forum for this, or should I post in the "Problems" forum?

Thanks for the info ApprenticeMan. I can't wait to get to that point!

Wrought iron eh? I've never worked with it. Any tips?

I've run across a fellow that has several wagon tires. I was curious what type of steel they might be. I found the table on this site, that lists the RR, and junkyard steel values, but didn't see that item characterized. Would it be similar to a harrow disc? I also came across several hay rake teeth, I think I'll try to snag those this week.

Thanks JWB, I have read what I could find on this site, regarding the drafting principles of both. The side draft appears to be the most efficient, but I thought I would listen to what you all had to say.

I'm curious about how much smoke is produced when you start your fire. Is it similar to an open forge, or a forge with a covering hood?

Thanks so much for the info on where to find the groups. I live in NW Missouri, not too far from St. Joseph. It looks like BAM is my best bet.

Glen, I started that thread as you suggested.

Thanks Glenn, if I weren't so darned lazy, I might have found that section,...... eventually.:rolleyes:

The answer to the anvil question did not come as a surprise. I knew it would be substandard, given it's price, and lack of info, but wanted to ask.

As to the blacksmith meetings, how does one go about finding something in the area?

Thank you for the posts so far. I am anxious to hear more about your thoughts on forge types.

I ran across an anvil on ebay the other day. It was listed as 110lbs, and new. The seller states that this anvil is not made in China, not laminated, etc....
Unfortunately, the seller does not say where it is made and gives only a few details. The picture shows a fairly nice looking anvil, but you know how that goes. Here's the hook, the price,....$100.00 plus $63.00 to ship.

Has anyone seen this, and has anyone got any idea how these anvils are, as far as rebound and durability?:confused::confused:

Up until now, I've only used an open forge, no hood of any kind. I am contemplating building a space dedicated to blacksmithing (as a hobby).

My question is what do y'all think is the best design and what might I consider in the pros and cons? This will be from the ground up, and I would welcome any input from all of you.

Bear, you are absolutely right, and I feel foolish to have used something like ebay as a reference. I suppose there are many other sources for tools out there, I'm just a little slow in finding them. Thanks for re-opening my eyes to the obvious perils out there.

John

Well, cheftjcook, if you put any stock in what the folks on ebay are getting for their tools, you will find that a riveter's forge, particularly a Champion, is going to go pretty high. If the blower is in good shape, and the hearth pan and firepot are not burned or rusted through, then the $350.00 price tag may not be that far off.

Best of luck! I would love to be able to come up with just the Champion blower, but,they go for crazy prices too.

John

Thanks for the info. The guys in the shop have done a few other anvil repairs, and were quick to tell me that they would be squaring the sole with the face. Milling was done before I got to read the replies here( they don't usually get so motivated) So, I may be out my small anvil if this doesn't work. I truly appreciate the info though, I'll try not to burden this board with too many mundane questions.

Thanks again!

John

I have an old 70 pound anvil, (small, but the only thing I've got), for years my father used it. It had a piece of steel welded over the original face, and the weld has finally broken. The fellows in the machine shop have offered to mill the face, and true-up the sides. At this point, I do not intend to try another over-lay on the face. My question is: What, if any effect will this have on the hardness of the anvil? Should it be heat treated after the milling process? I'm very curious to hear what wisdom and experience have to say.

Thanks

John

Just a note to say hello to all of you, I've been reading the various posts for the past few days and I believe I've found a great resource here. I am just beginning to put my forge together, and it's been slow going. My father planted the seed of interest in smithing several years ago, and it has grown (my wife might say like a noxious weed). I've finally scraped enough together to get rollin'. 'Can't wait!