K A Willey

i will get you a couple of pics later tonight

Fisher, are you talking about inside the ram or the outside surfaces. Can you get a pic?

I have seen this hammer before it is a very beautiful hammer, last time I was down there I took the time to stop and look at it it is a thing of beauty to me! thanks for sharing the pics.

I have gotten pulleys from them, very reasonable and good service.

Try Reliable Bronze

Thanks, I'd like to see it too if tuned and adjusted right and lubed correctly they hit very hard.

Thanks Andrew, the bearing in my 7 is run out pretty bad on both ends bout a1/4 it has alot slop and my spider is cracked along the key, nothin that cant be fixed just a little more work , again thanks for takin the time to do this for me I have 2 other Beaudrys running right now they are a sweet hammer and I will do whatever it takes to get this one running in top notch shape, I have it completly tore down now and hope to have it running by this winter or sooner if possible. Willey

Anybody have any parts a #7 Or 8 clutch Beaudry , I'll probably have to make them but it never hurts to ask Thanks KaWilley

You can tell her no I just love Beaudry's(there almost better than a woman ha ha) I have 3 of them a #2 #4 and a #7 2 belt driven, completely restored and in use and one clutch model in the process I am tearing it down completely, once I'm done with it I'll never have to touch it again in my lifetime,other than adjusting and lube .heres a pic of my little #2, on your hammer can you set the stroke lenth or is it fixed?, all mine you can set the crank stroke on my clutch the adjusting screw is on the bottom slightly to right when you slide the main split drive pully open a bit you should be able to look right up at it .Hope you get her tuned the way you want it. pm me with your address. The Beaudry,s and Bradleys are the best mechanicals I've run and for me and the work I do the Beaudry is the King. Willey

That is a beautiful hammer ,And yes that is what the serial number means I have just finished a belt driven # 4 and currently working on a #7 motor driven one like yours , how long have you had the hammer Did it come from Nova Scotia? if so I called about that hammer but it was going to cost a fortune to get it here it is a beautiful hammer and later model, I wanted it in the worst way, I have a breakdown of the clutch if you need one let me know I, you may need to replace the steel roller in the clutch or the ingaging ring has worn abit thin, you will love that hammer when you get it tuned right, heres a pic of my #4 i just finished i should have it power up by Sunday or monday i finished the drive tower acouple days ago, again beautiful hammer and I,m glad to see it running.Willey

That would be fun to see!

Looks like its cleaning up good, looks like a 100 to me.

Looks good, Thanks for the close up of the tag. Like Dimenickel said check the rollers and if the have worn a track in the ram and how deep the track is, you don't want that track to be worn in to deep or it will start to ride on the roller axles( the utility like you have is alot easier to clean up those tracks cause the track and rollers are on the out side of the ram as where on the Champion hammer everything is inside the ram). Willey

Nice blade, looks like it was worth the work. Willey

JW yours looks to have been made before Barbour Stockwell bought out Beaudry if yours was a Stockwell like Dimenickels the size would be clearly stamped in the casting like he said, From what I can see in your pics your says Beaudry & Co in the casting ( could you take a closer pic of your casting when you get time, would be interesting to me to see the markings)? Willey

JW, that is a Beaudry Utility hammer it is different than the Champion, looks to me like its either a 50 or a 100lber it looks more like a 100 to me, nice hammer looks to be in good shape. you should like it , thanks for the pics. Willey

Nice looking hammer if it runs as nice as you have cleaned it up you will be happy with it, I would also use leater for a pad it still grabs good when wet. Willey

J W,The serial # 2817 should have been built in 1928 17th hammer that year according to how Beaudry #ed there champion hammers if that were the case it would be #ed differently than the chart posted. I dont know bout the utility hammers, don't have much experience with them but Bruce Wallace of United Hammers sould be able tell you, my Beaudrys have no serial #s stamped in the castings anywere on the hammers just on the tags I've stripped a few to bare castings and none of them have serial #s in the castings some think the # cast into the spring box is the year they were made but that is not the case Its just a part casting #, The champion is a great hammer and you ouhgt to love it. Is your hammer a slack belt driven hammer or a clutch model if its a champion, would love to see pics when you get it home. Willey

Looks to be a Beaudry Peerless I have never seen one run would be cool to see it run it used a crossover linkage on the ram (different than the champion or utility hammers), looks like the casting on that one may have been fixed once. would be fun to see it up close and see some other views of it. I wounder if there is a Beaudry Cylinder hammer out there in the world somewhere? would love to see one of those too! thanks for the link.

Check the dovetails over real good I have seen alot of hammers that have set outside for a longtime with cracked or broken off dovetails check the ram dovetails good too, being it's set outside in the elements for along time the rollers on the end of the spring arms may be froze up or have flats wore on them or as Hollis said the ram may be cracked, broken or severely worn on the inside and wearing on the roller axles. the crank and crank pin bearings could be worn out also,those are some things to look for on a slack belt model, if its a friction clucth model there is alot of other things to look for( do you know if it is a slack belt type or a clucth model)? Check to see how the motor was mounted before and how many times someone has drilled extra holes in the casting. A hammer that size will take at least a 7 1/2 horse motor and if it is a slack belt type check to see how worn out the idler pully up top is, it will also have to have tower or some kind of mount to run it, (unless you will run it on a line shaft)belts, bearings, pullys you will have to come up with to run it.a substantal foundation to mount it to,(reinforced concrete or hardwood like white oak) that hammer is a 2 piece, as the hammer is separate frome the anvil, alittle more particular to set up than a one piece. If your not afraid of alittle work, time,money and have a way to handle heavy parts and can buy it reasonable restore it they are well worth it in the end in my opinion, also keep in mind like Hollis said parts for Beaudry's are hard to come by so you will most likely to make them yourself or look to shell ot some cash to have them made. hope this helps you. Where are you located? Willey

Monster this is how mine is set up heres a video if it runnin I have the stroke set pretty short on this hammer it is set up with a jack shaft to run 300 rpms to the drive pulley whicth is the same size as the hammer pully I have exellent control with this hammer I made the tower with stuff I had on hand, here are a couple of pics I know some fellas that have set up their hammer very similar to the links Will K put up of Baltimore Knives hammer with idler reversed and the worked well, I like the motor and shaft above out of the way if you have the room myself but thats just me(no obstuctions that way). Willey

Hollis, if that track in the ram gets deep enough it will ride on the edge of the roller that sets in the spring arm preventing it to roll at the deepest part of the track causing it to choke the throw slightly causing it to double hit the fix is to either biuld it back up and smooth it out or depending on how much meat you have left in the ram you can grind the shoulder of the track off so the roller doesn't hit it, as you said earlier the rams were cast as is and may have been slightly thicker on one side, if thats the case the track will be alot deeper on on side then you can simply take it down level tapering it back and it should fix it, if it wore in even on both sides of the track you will need to build it back up and smooth it back out with a die grinder or a small rotary tool of some kind so you can get inside the ram ,if I remember right you said you had to fix the ram once before, the rams with the oval hole in the front are alot harder to get into than the ones with the round holes , if you fix it know you'll never have to touch it again in your lifetime if you don't it will just keep gettin worse till you break something (probably the the spring arm or the pitmam) If I were you I think I would try to fix it I think it would save you in the long run. thats just my 2 cents worth take it as you will. Willey

Phil, I get paid for the detail in my work so I need good sharp detail as forged so I dont have alot of clean up I know its not (rocket surgery as you call it) but I need tools that work and I'm sick of so called quality tools that turn out to be xxxx aftet a few forgings (chipping of or mush rooming) I need specific tooling for specific operations, I can't buy the tooling I need so I need to make it that why I asked the questions to those of you who do alot of production work. I'm sick of spending money on xxxx tools I need some thing I can use so I guess I need to stop and make the tooling myself. thanks for the help and suggestions don't take this the wrong way I'm just sick of sorry xxx tools. I quess I'm picky but to bad thats what I get paid for! I'll just keep tweaking it till I get it right. Thanks Willey

Hollis, I see you fixed the problem, I had the same thing happen to me awhile back when the left roller in in mine hung up on my oil can cap it lodged in between the roller and the spring I had filled the crank bearing oiler and set the cap on the ram guide and knocked it off in to the ram, damnest things happen some times it was brass and lodged in there tight enough I had to pull the spring and knock the roller out with a brass mallet(I don't mess with oil can caps anymore.) glad you got it fixed. Willey

Ric, re read your post I didn't see were you talked about the sharp detail. I work on a set of finishing swages tonight I used 4140 but haven't heat treated them yet, I will be useing them in the Beaudry forging at a lower heat to get as sharp a finish detail as I can get, what would you guys suggest for heat treatment the swages are 2 1/2 inchs long 1 inch thich by 1 inch wide. Thanks Willey