BryanWillman

All good to know.

This particular anvil is a new peddinghaus, so I presume it's all "mild forged steel" but who is to say? I'll start with HSS drills and go get carbide if need be. I guess I'll report back on how it goes.

Since the flatifier squashes things like carbide tools, will the insane-o-flex do things like bend cars into pretzels?

It does look very impressive, and I very much look forward to seeing it work.

When I search fro Jim Batson's "manual for hydraulic forging presses" book (wrong title?) I seem to only find web pages that are very old. Anybody know where one can actually be bought now in Jan 2010?

thx
bmw

Brian D - yes. Sometimes I strip angle and dimensions from drawings (so 22d for the legs goes right onto the bandsaw swivel) and other times I just print a view life size. Then do things like cut the image out. This yields a life size paper template which can be used for setup/marking. My printer (I'm a photographer in another life) can print quite large drawings to very good precision.

And I've been thinking the trick is to build from top to bottom. Tack the legs onto the top plate. Measure again. Weld. Fit the shelf, tack, check, weld. Turn the think over onto the feet, weld. Now trace the anvil to be 100% sure of cutout shape, etc. Plasma the gaps. Drill the holes, etc. Nothing is ever welded overhead. In fact, by putting the thing on a scissors table, I think I can arrange to always be welding in good positions.

Revised Proposal.

Legs are speced as 2x4x3/8. Feet are 1/2" Top is 1.5" Shelf is 1/4".

Do you think the upsetting block will be hanging "too far out"?

I cannot get search to show me threads relevent to this, so I'll have to ask this again.

Are there any issues with drilling holes into my forged anvil?

In this post and #59 Hofi shows pins sticking up from the base, which apparently fit holes in the anvil base: My link

Do I dare turn mine over and just drill a suitable hole? (I have milling machines that can do this task.)

Great detail on your drawling, what did you use for the drafting? I would also recommend a tripod but keep the legs fairly straight up not too much angle 65 - 70 degrees is about right. the one inch plate is good and if you look at the pic of Hofi that Glenn sent you will notice the plate is cut out to the shape of the anvil this makes it open to pass a piece down the side without interference, its a little extra work but some day it will pay off

OK, thanks. I'll think some more on the tripod idea. I actually would really prefer that (no rocking) but I have *got* to be able to get a pallet jack under it to move it. I picked 1" plate because in another post Hofi used 1" plate or so. Cutting out the profile won't be hard. (I've searched for anvil stands and read a number of threads and posts.)

I set the height based on my current anvil on stump, which set using the bend in eblow rule sited by Glenn, so I think I have the height right. I also did one of the "put material and a hammer on the anvil" tests in Mark Aspery's books - I get the same answer.

The drawing is a solidworks model (I have that for other reasons) saved out as a .jpg file so it works with the forum software. When I do work like this I now always start by making a model of the existing object (anvil, saw, etc.) and then actually model my plans. This allows one to see things like the top of the anvil is 30" high but the base is only 13" deep. (Though on a stump 13" deep it's very stable, until the stump started to come apart.)

The designs like the one in the picture with Hofi appeal to me the most, just because if you get a 1st rate weld, the legs will be mostly in axial compression and hence very strong.

I only have two problems with triangles. (1) They require welding fit ups at an angle, I don't feel all that confident about that. But I guess I could practice on scrap, and test heavily with a hammer. (2) Need some scheme for getting a pallet jack under it to move it.

Thanks again
I will think on this some more.

I need to build a stand for my anvil. The anvil is a peddinghaus #12 - 125kg/275#. And in my shop I really have to be able to move the thing around with a pallet jack (I have a very narrow pallet jack available.) My welding is pretty basic, so I want all right angle fitups.

The stand design shown in the picture is what I propose to build. I'd use 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.250 tube and 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.250 angle, and 1" steel plate.

I had thought about using leveling feet rather than wood blocks, but now think that would might hold up better to being pounded on.

I also thought about using 3 feet, but with the square uprights and cross stretchers, I was concerned about the thing being tippy. And my shop floor is reasonably flat.

I've set the height to the existing arrangement (stump that's hard to move), but it could be made taller or shorter by changing the wood block feet.

Anyway, anybody see anything dangerous/unstable in this design?

Did you buy a new one from Ozark, or someplace else? Where are say-mak's made?

That would be correct. I have made the jump to a Say Mak 135lb and sold Marie my 110Lb

I'm not really sure how big of a step that is or if it was warrented with the 200lb chambersburg I now have as a third hammer. But I do really like the Say Mak, the cheap dies that are available for them and the portability... My new Say Mak is someplace in the Atlantic in route I suppose