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I Forge Iron

rsilver4

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Posts posted by rsilver4


  1. Very nice hawk Butch! When you use a ballpein hammer or something that has been heat treated in some way do you anneal it before you start beating on it or just start beating on it?



    Hi Barry,thanks.There is no reason to anneal before forgeing,you anneal mainly to soften the steel before coldworking it such as filework.I get it up to a yellow heat and forge away :D Best Regards Butch

  2. You certainly have a high level of craftsmanship, I really appreciate seeing that.
    I hope that your recovery is speedy. I have had two friend recently go through the very same surgery and are now doing just fine and back to doing all they did before, well almost every thing :P



    Thank you for that. :) ....Regards Butch

  3. You work on getting well! We need more work like yours out in the world!

    (And as my Drs like to tell me---trying to push my limits usually *slows* down my recovery!)

    Perhaps now would be a good time to read up on the craft?


    Thanks Thomas,I know you are right on the recovery,and I do have a lot of smithin material to read through ;) ---Regards Butch
  4. post-1252-0-46394500-1304264776_thumb.jp
    Here is a hawk I forged from a 32 oz. ball pein,been laid up for two weeks after prostate surgery,can't forge for a while-patience is not my strong suit--I don't know if I attached the photo right or not,if you can see it thanks for looking--Regards Butch--Added a pic of the sheath--

    post-1252-0-81123700-1304272129_thumb.jp

  5. You should have normalized the blade a couple of times before the quench,if you get any warping you can straighten then.To normalize heat to orange or non-magnetic and let cool to black---Regards Butch

  6. If you believe the coil spring is too hard. Heat it to non-magnetic and stick it in either a bucket of wood ash, Lye, vermiculite, or pearlite to soften it.



    You don't anneal before forging, you forge at high orange heat anyway,you anneal before you finish the shaping and grinding, then quench and temper----Regards Butch
  7. I recently bought a 2 burner blacksmith model,I am very pleased with it.I usually run it at 5 psi I haven't tried welding in it yet, but I have no doubt it's up to it.Dennis is a very nice guy and I picked it up at his shop.The idler valve is nothing but a ball valve with a stop to keep it from closing all the way.You can't beat the price either.If you can, invest in a 100 lb. tank,lasts a good long time and won't freeze up on you---Regards Butch

  8. After several attempts here's the first one I'm reasonably happy with. I still have some clean up to do and handle to make.

    I'm pretty sure I got the eye shape backwards but not really sure. I don't have a drift to speak of, but I have a large cone shaped chunk of metal that got me close and rest has been file work. I also need to run it thru some kind quench, any suggestions?

    Russell



    I like the blade shape,but yes the eye is upside down,a teardrop shape the point goes down,but you did good,be proud--Regards Butch:)
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