reefera4m

Couple of modification/enhancements to the original design. I coated the KOAWOOL with refractory cement and then ITC100 - both really help increase the internal temperature by reflecting the heat back into the forge.

Sliding, extendable blade/tool rest. This, along with the fire brick on the 'porch' allows me to position the work piece where I want to and where it will heat the best. The rest can be used to support the work piece on either or both ends with a maximum extension of about 24 inches beyond the 'porch'. Completely removeable for transporting. Made from 1/2" square tubing ( I had to fabricate the guide slots as Home Depot didn't carry 5/16" square tubing).


Rear cover - opposite side hook faces up so that I can just give it a twist to remove, It fits snug on the lugs and snug to the back. Helps retain much more heat than an open back but is removeable for longer blades.


The burner flames using the new offset design.


Tried to get the swirl but doesn't show up in the photo well but heats pretty evenly

After 2 minutes:

A simple vice I made to hold knife blanks, holds the blade flat for grinding, filing, shaping and polishing. Bottom tang fits into regular vice, inside pads are old computer mouse pads - durable and very non-slip.

Not yet but I'll try tomorrow. I've been working on a couple of knives for my sons for Xmas. First due home tonight from college and send due home next Sat.

Brand NEWBIE here so sorry if this is old news.

Here's a couple of forges I built for $20* each *(excluding the regulator which I had and scrap materials which I also had). The first design wasn't optimal for even heating so I changed the burner position on the second. #2 has offset burners that create a 'swirl' effect and heat more evenly (though a little slower). Both operate well at between approximately 6 and 12 psi.

Both now have a refractory cement coating over the KOAwool.


If interested I have a complete list of material and tools required - no charge.

Main cost:
12" length of 6" steel pipe = $10
1' KAOwool $8
1 gas valve $2 Harbor Freight

All the rest was scrap but if priced new would be another $10.

Tools used:
MillerMatic 175 MIG Welder
3/4 metal cutting hole saw
4" grinder w/cutoff wheels *$.79 @ HB
3/4" Pipe Threader (not needed if purchasing new nipples)
Drill and tap for the MIG .030 welding tips

The venturi cones were made from 3" lengths of 2" diameter scrap exhaust pipe. The adjusting rod was an old 1/2" carriage bolt welded to a 3/8" black steel 'T'.

Base was made from 2 pieces of 3" scrap angle steel 24" long welded together.

After only 3-4 minutes almost to welding temp and this was before coating the KOAwool with refractory cement.

200mphbusa,

Nice to see you again:)

I fabricated a back cover for my 'venturi' forge using a piece of 1/8 plate with two hook tabs on the side. They engage lugs on either side of the forge body (one hook up and one down). I got the idea from my camper's dump tank connector. I lined the cover with KOAwool (high temp silicon adhesive) and a coating of Hercules 3000 degree refractory cement and it works like a charm - the forge gets hotter get their quicker! For long blades I have one cap with a slot cut in it to allow the blade to pass through. here's a photo of the slotted cap. The slotted tabs/lugs are designed to be quite snug but make the cap removeable with just a tap of a small hammer and a twist.

Here's a photo