Jump to content
I Forge Iron

mrkiddi

Members
  • Posts

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mrkiddi


  1. Thank you guys very much for your help. First of all, sorry for my broken English.

    If we return to the issue of shaping a knife by cold stock removal(after all "sculpturing" the metal :rolleyes: ) just using an hand file, lets say, from a piece of spring leaf steel, do I still need to harden and temper the metal after I finished the knife? Isn't the stock steel already hard enough for a knife edge?

    This may come as a surprise but Leaf steel is pretty Hard and durable when it's the way it's supposed to be, but when you put an edge on it, it will not be a very good edge. one thing i learned from stock removal leaf springs is that smaller knifes are terrible if not heat treated but bigger blades that don't need to be razor sharp are OK if you don't heat treat it. but i would recommend heat treating, it's a lot of fun too see the difference between a heat treated knife and non heat treated.
  2. get some decent steel, car springs are very good and old files.
    second is the steel pipe protected against the fire? fire brick or fireproof wool? because it will start to rust or even melt if you don't protect it.
    other than that it seems pretty good. enjoy your new addiction :D

  3. thanks for the advice guys :) i will try the pipe within the pipe to control the airflow.
    like Dablacksmith says i only need it to heat treat the knifes... the brake drum forge is just too
    small to heat up the whole blade. :P


  4. I agree! Your paint skills rock!

    Will you have 5 air holes supplying the fire? That should give you a nice long fireball.

    Of course thats 5 places to keep clean and you will have to master even air flow and even heat.

    But I think you can handle it.

    I like it! :D Let us know how it works out.

    Mark<><

    HAHA! thanks :P i was thinking about 5 holes...might do more just a little smaller :)
    i will update this thread until i'm finished!
  5. ahh i see...he must be one of those "i learn blacksmithing for one day and then i can make a damascus sword" type of fantasy "blacksmith".
    really bugs me that everyone that i know think i can make a viking sword or katana and i always tell them i have to do this for a long time and get the right equipment to such a thing...
    i would gladly like to have help from someone that has been doing this for longer or even shorter than i have...swapping knowledge is the only thing that makes you better at this trade:)
    so sorry you had to waste your time on one of those "Blacksmiths"


  6. When you're hardening you really need to catch critical temp on the rise, NOT exceed it and wait till it cools to quench, that allows excessive grain growth and no matter how you temper it, it's likely to be more brittle than you want in a utility knife. On the up side, spring steel is a lot more forgiving of heat treat mistakes.

    Get a good magnet, cow magnets work really well. Slowly heat the tool steel, whatever you're hardening, and as it starte gaining mid red heat, start checking with the magnet. As soon as the magnet won't stick quench it. Cow magnets are pill sized strong magnets you feed cattle to clean any steel or iron from their gut, bailing wire, old nails, lawn tractor parts, etc.

    Frosty the Lucky

    Will do:)

  7. Darned nice first knife! What kind of wood is the handle?

    Well done.

    Frosty the Lucky

    it's nothing fancy, my brother is a Carpenter and when i consulted with him he gave me a piece of wood and oil...it's not very strong but it doesn't chip. a good quality when it comes to Handles in my opinion. i didn't ask but i sure will the next time i meet him :) and thank you for the compliment!

  8. yes, very good for a first!
    but, why no pins or rivets?.
    the epoxy will probably never come undone but there is always a chance.
    i like epoxy but if my joints aren't perfect odd color lines result.that is why i made my first knife without any glues just to test the strength of the blade without it. but back to yours. was this your first knife ever? because it has a good shape, which many peoples first do not. also do you intend to put a finish on the grip? how did you heat treat it, and what are the demensions?
    lots of questions but i just gotta know :D

    Ed Steinkirchner


    i just couldn't get a good strategy to drill holes for pins, the metal was too strong and i once tried to punch a hole through but the pin broke :rolleyes:. this was not my first knife but it is my first forged knife :) .
    i put oil on the wood and it came out pretty well,
    the grip is good but it's not for swinging, decent cutting knife.
    i heated the knife to bright yellow and waited for
    it to turn cherry red and then dipped it in oil.
    then i heated it again with a torch but just the backside and dipped it in water.
    it holds a fairly good edge and looks wonderful!.
    the Blade is 13cm (5 inches) and the thickness spans out from 0,5mm to 0,4 mm the tip is 0,2mm. the handle is
    11,5cm(4,5inches) and the thickness is 2,4cm(0,94 inches). im really happy with the knife!. i have had a passion for knifes since i was a little boy. im glad you like it :P
×
×
  • Create New...