ornametalsmith

hmmmmmmmmm, I was always taught that if your not getting good answers.....ask better questions. :D

soooooo I'll try again.....are there any pneumatic wizards in the group?
thanks in advance........

fwiw, The technology works, there are many water torches used in the jewelry field, which was where I first saw the Aqua Torch(mid 80's). They don't use "tons of electricity". Can you get your O/A torch to burn at almost 5800 degrees? Mine won't. :confused:

Flame temperatures

* 2200

Got a question for the pneumatic wizards in the group. MY 4 way valve went out on my Simple Air hammer .....after 12 years . Got a NEW one.......installed it......and for some reason it won't let me control the hammer action by the Exhaust. I can make the head cycle by adjusting the amount of air pressure IN.........but I want to control it by the footpedal/exhaust. I had this happen a LONG time ago on another hammer I built and I remember taking the valve back to the supplier and he "adjusted" it so that it did enable me to control that hammer with the exhaust. So.....

MY question.....I removed the bottom access plate which only exposed a "compression spring on a post"....nothing to adjust. The top side of the valve is where the air line to the 3 way valve that changes the direction of the head IS. IS there something on that side that I should be able to adjust?

Or is the fix somewhere else. I'd appreciate any insight. I've got a "get together " planned for the "international blacksmiths day" and I'd really like to have this TOYL working normally. As usual.......Murphy came.....and he wasn't invited. :D

Just thought I'd toss this out there:
YouTube - Hydrogen Technology
And their website, which has other interesting videos:
Hydrogen Technology Applications, Inc.

I've got an invitation to go down and Play with the TOYLS.......I'll post a first hand experience report afterwards.

NOMMA.org might be helpful.
fwiw, I go by "ornamental metalsmith"

good luck with your paper.......It would be neat to see what you come up with.

I always enjoy seeing your work, Adrian. Beautimous as usual. The designs and execution is top shelf.

thanks for sharing...

Peyton,
really enjoyed the webcast. great demos.
3 1/2 hours just melted away.

I've got the video playin in a Quicktime window.....is there supposed to be sound? I've got my volumes UP....:mad:

;)

sounds like a fun time, Mike.
I already had a "play day" planned at my shop for the 24th when I saw Johan's post about the International Blacksmithing Day. Figured it was some kinda divine intervention of the Smithin Gods. Think this is a great idea and hope it becomes an annual event.

Anyone else in the Central FL area? as it stands now we'll be doing some inflating...(like E. Brim pillows) some large scaled foldforming.....some playing with an english wheel. A lost wax casting demo, a patina/finish demo.......and I've forgotten what else LOL:D

Frosty,
it's great to see your V.V. forge design. Really like the "jack" height adjustment. I've also been wanting to build one for a few years. I first got to work with one at Enrique's shop in '01. His didn't have the jack, the burner top was VERY heavy and he used the overhead crane to lift it for reconfiguring. And his had two "rows" of burners(6 total), three in each row. The burners were the Sandia style burners, that preheated the intake. You could run all or any combination of burners depending upon the need. I saw the incredible potential of this design, and have wanted one ever since. I'm glad I've waited because the burners are so much simplier to make now. AND now that I see your modifications.........ya got me thinking about building it again. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.
Can't wait to see yours in action.

Happy Hammering

I'm getting ready to estimate costs for my first railing/balcony job. What are the going rates nowadays for railings? Last time I heard they started at around $100 per foot for a basic railing.

Bought a 20' stick of 2x2x1/8 angle yesterday. $31.60 + tax.

Good thing I have most of what I need for this project in my stock pile. I'm putting together a Variable Volume forge for the shop.

Ouch!

Frosty

Just thought I'd add this to the mix.
There is a wonderful book that might be VERY helpful to you regarding the "period" strap hinges.
It's "Early American Wrought Iron" by Albert H. Sonn.
with 320 plates from drawings by the author.

It would be a great resource for anyone interested in "period hardware". IMO

This is gonna be a GREAT demo......I just saw some images of these demo items last week from another demo THEY did recently at the New Salem Hammer In near Springfield IL.

Anyone in the area that misses this one..........will be kicking themselves. Wish I was closer, Peyton.

120 gallon tank out back...copper from tank to pipe....hard pipe runs width of shop.....then through wall...valves and regulators..flexible hoses to forges, foundry unit and glass torch.

lots of good info. The only thing I'd add is that it is Handy to have a ball bearing with you while your shopping for that anvil. It lets you "test" the hardness or recoil of the face. Hold the bearing about 10" above the face....and drop it....you WANT the bearing to AT LEAST bounce back 7 or more inches. The higher it bouncer......the more you should grin.
well that's my two cents.

mine's just a play on words......took ornamental metalsmith.........and got Ornametalsmith.
Used to be just ORNAmetal.....

the only thing I didn't see mentioned.
Stay away from a "leading edge of any piece" only work a "trailing edge". Any "leading edge" can still be worked and become a trailing edge by turning the piece around.
And the only place on the wheel that you should work is the lower front quadrant. IF your looking at the wheel from the side, imagine the wheel divided into four quadrants. The center line......could be considered the horizon......stay below the horizon, in that lower front quadrant.
Many times folks get into trouble by not paying attention and "wandering" up above the horizon line....and as they put more force on the piece.........it tends to get grabbed and the force is increased at the horizon line...that's usually when it gets Ripped out of your hand.
be careful out there. I've heard it said, "it's a poor craftsman, that blames his tools".

fwiw,
here's a link to a site with some info.

C. Cook Enterprises - Pullmax Machines

Wish I'd have found this before I made a lot of the tooling.
Look under Pullmax machine.......for Pullmax dies and accessories. That should give you some ideas for making your own tooling.

I also did a search on Ebay for pullmax. might be a source for a manual. There was one for $45, but it was for a P9.

my pleasure, Kevan. The good thing is that you can make all your tooling. I think it takes 5/8" sq. stock. I'd suggest some tool steel .
the tooling I showed is somewhat basic. I've seen tooling that was shaped like a small leaf (both top and bottom) and with that ........you are able to do "clusters" of leaves VERY FAST. Which is great if your doing.........a 3D tree on a gate(etc.).......enables you to do large clusters of leaves that are then cut out and welded to your branches.

I thought I was Green with Envy before............I heard how much you paid
that was a DEAL.
I found one years ago for $500.......thought no one knew about it....so I dragged my feet for a few days............MISTAKE. That weekend I went into the shop I worked at......saw IT standing there in the shop. YIKES......I was in shock....someone else had found it....bought it and drove it over and sold it to my boss for $2250 if my memory is correct. I learned a valuable lesson ......NEVER.....leave a DEAL. NEVER.

Kevan,
You've got a great machine for doing decorative sheet metal work. And that's "besides" the basic nibbling and punching operations.
Maybe you could also show some of the tooling that you got with it, and we can discuss their applications.
A lot of the tooling you'll want to make yourself. To do specific operations like dishing and "running lines".
here's an example:


somewhere I've got a photo of some tooling that I made. I'll find it and put it in my gallery. AND post it with this reply.

congrats on getting an awesome tool. I'm GREEN with envy. :)

as has been suggested........twisted rebar has many decorative uses. Here's some different sizes that have a series of reverse twists.


the smallest rounds are the "viney" round that's available.

The key to forging acorns between dies is to neck the stem area down prior to inserting into the dies for the shaping,

The amount to leave from the end of the bar can be determined and noted for future reference.

I usually keep a sample fastened to the swage handles and a sample of a pre opped item / non destructible reference to bar sizes used at some future date when I have a senior moment trying to recall "How did I do that?"

I was just about to add some photos of some acorn swages I'd made for a HUGE table project that I did. .......but........after reading the "trying it" post........that link to Artmetal has the same images. sweeeeeeet
FWIW, I used a grinder and file to make the acorn masters. AND..Stretch's advice of "softening" the edges of the dies before using them is very important.

here are a FEW of the many acorns that were needed for the table project.After forging.....in the swage I went back and added the lil detail on the "caps".


and a shot of them finished:



Don't forget to send pix of your spring swage when you get R dun.