hdwarner

i was at the smithsonium today and there was a metorite that hit arizona
in the 1800" and guess who found it ?
read story
http://www.meteoritestudies.com/protected_TUCSON.HTM

anyone know how much this hammer would cost to make
i have all the tools and capabilities like lathes saws mills and welders
just looking for an amount for parts , approx

questions answered
these are for some sort of window shutters forging
will get some pics when the kuhn is forging
they are milled on a milling machine the material is h13 tool steel
the pictures show the dies before heat treat
and they are three pieces mounted to one base plate , underneath not shown is countersunk screws to allow for perfect alignment

i just finished up some production dies for a kuhn hammer in pa
thought i would share

i thought this was a pretty good idea , not mine but i will steal i have one of these face plates
steel table/ welding table

i took a piece of 3/8 thick by 1 inch wide by 4 foot long steel
in even increments in the center slots about 2 inches long
opened them up with my cone mandrel
twisted everyother one
and for a novice like i am i thought it turned out acceptable
just wanted to share the pic

been a long time since i been on here , i have been fortunate enough to be real busy at my day job. Plenty of parts need machining but i always check the classified every day and i saw an anvil and tools
for 150 dollars about an hour from me. i go get it wasn't too enthused till i got it home and on the side it had kowelsa , sweden on side of 70 pound anvil with an enderas hot cut so all in all i am happy
and this anvil was barely used.

i don't get a chance too often to gloat so please endure me
anvil

in a blacksmith shop , on a drill press i reccomend a drill point angle of 118 degrees
for most work .
the equation for, is the more mild the material the steeper the angle
hence 130 degrees for stainless
stay away from split points although they cut great at first but are real vulnable to chipping .

for stable and clean working envirement , the medical machining industry
" swiss type cncs"
seems to be a huge demand in my area ,northeast
synthes is the company that is predominant
i don't work in that field but headhunters call me on a daily basis
i have been a machinist for 30 years , i am a journeyman .
always worked never layed off .
i like it always have
if i can say this , and i can in this forum
being a machinist or blacksmith for that matter is a matter of "heart" to have any sustainability.
i have seen the guys with no heart come and then they go.
just like blacksmithing , being a successful machinist requires constant vigilance
and attention .
if not you end up being another"button pusher" that fades into obscurity.

if you are looking for a good shop to work for ask the local tooling supplier "street salesman"
they normally know where the good shops are to work for, not the propaganda adds in newspaper
another observation is the smaller jobs shops tend to in this day and age pay more and
contrary to popular belief manufaturing in the states is going thru the roof
don't reference manufaturing with gm or ford that is a whole other entity .
i have worhed unfortunatly 50 hours plus for years now.
chuck

when in doubt sub it out

wood is fine try using a very tight grain wood or even "nova ply"
i understand you can not always back your work up like drilling pipe or
on site eye beams , etc
but here is a grind that will minimise drill pulling when drill goes thru
and it lends itself for longer lasting , takes a slight more physical energy
but worth the expense for the results , recommended grind for brass also

grind the positive rake on the drill to nuetral rather than positive
rather than grind till you understand function , use a sharpening stone at first
a few swipes on the face is all you need
be careful not to wrap around to the margin of the drill
i will try to generate better pics on my cad system

drilling principles is one of the most important aspects of machining and
sometimes blacksmithing however somethings are overlooked

will expand

here are some proven tips from me on longevity of twist drills

When you purchase a brand new drill take an Arkansaw stone or some light sand paper and gently stone the face of the drill or the lip when these drills are ground new they have microscopic slivers that tear into large imperfections when drilling.

Try if possible to drill into another piece of steel when drilling through a piece { NO NOT INTO YOUR DRILL PRESS TABLE OR YOUR VISE } and don't completely drill through that piece either.

One of the most detrimental things that happens to a drill is when you drill through is that little thin section right before the drill breaks through gets so hot it anneals the hardened drill , were blacksmiths we know that right.

Be sure you have the correct speed for drilling , a slower speed is always better than a higher speed, if you have doubts.

Keep good pressure on drill ,

Another dulling factor is a drill that dwells

If you are using cutting oils this even worsens the dulling process. If you are not pushing the drill, think of the honing process, that is what you are doing honig the cutting edge away. A couple drops of oil is all that is needed at entry.

A properly dressed twist drill in a blacksmith shop, for what blacksmiths usually cut, will never need replacing just minor touchups. i have dressed drills on the job and drilled thousands of holes in mild steel with out any maintenance .

if there is any interest in this subject i will expand

left hand drills , ahhhhhhh
i used to run screw machines and the high range was ccw with left hand drills to drill the hole and when you went to tap threads , right hand threads that is
you shifted to low range and the machine would run cw and reversing the tap went into high range

left hand drills , ahhhhhhh
i used to run screw machines and the high range was ccw and when you went to tap
you shifted to low range and the machine would run cw and reversing the tap went into high range

i have lathes and milling machines and i perpetually make more tools
i like to think of it as a self feeding frenzy
i love it though
always need a tool to do something

i am a fan of ih can i see some pics

be glad to meet you two

this worked out very well

i made a railroad track anvil , i bored out the hole to accept a 1-1/16 socket
with a 3/4 square drive
i pressed the socket in upside down and flush with the 3/4 inch square drive
showing
i welded from bottom
worked well , somewhere in this forum there is a pic of it , iwll search
chuck

if you had a lathe what would you do?
what would you make.

i am i live in claymont

you came to the right place ,
look around at the vast forum postings
many questions have already been answered
welcome

depends on who you ask
ask my wife and she'll tell you "no more than $121.12 dollars " with blacksmith included
ask me and i will give you the long version of the journeys i went on to aquire these wonderful tools and how much exactly each cost . estimate 6 thousand dollars plus or minus .32 cents
another blacksmith would charge me to take all that junk away
a scrap dealer would give me 20cents per pound
a judge would give me a fine for 10 thousand dollars and a possible jail sentence for having such dangerous weapontry
so sum it up values vary

make sure where it goes into tank there is a check valve , otherwise it will leak out of the compressor head when not running , and some check valves you can buy via grainger industrial if they still carry them have a built in blow off for easy starting
or your pressure switch may have a pressure relief

what this does is downloads the residual pressure in the compressore head for easier starting
i notice the motor is a duel capacitor so it is a single phase unit , i reccomend if possible to wire 220 volts for less amperes means less money out of pocket in electricity

now whats your plans to have a pneumatic hammer to forge with?

all material being cut has an optimal cutting speed based on hardness and
and machinability and tool type whether it is high speed steel or carbide
the optimal cutting speed is usaully defined as s.f.m which can be optained thru tol manufatures or mmaterial sciences
s.f.m, surface feet per minute is the rate you can safely pass the tool over a
workpiece with minimal wear and good cutting action.

s.f.m normally needs to be converted to r.p.m.
revolutions per minute .

when cutting a workpiece the most crucial variable in tool life is s.f.m
second is feed rate of tool or workpiece .
and third is depth of cut .