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I Forge Iron

clinton

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Posts posted by clinton


  1. Mmmm.... So many to choose from...

    I have to say one of the ones that upset me the most was not really my fault.

    I had a real difficult winder stair, 4 runs, that had wood posts and topcap... Really pretty. I was sweating the tight returns and matching the wood guys layout.. So I paid the wood guys $3000 to do cad drawings ( That was a huge chunk considering, about 10% of my part of the job) So I built my forged railing to the wood guys cad drawings.... Only to find out they where miles off from their own drawings... I had runs that where 6" off... So here I am in a 6 million dollar home cutting the railing up with a port a band and tig'in it back together, ramming them into the curb out front to change the pitch.... Thankfully the home owners never saw... They where super nice people. As a thank you they invited my wife and I over for dinner, a year after the job was completed... I managed to spill my dinner on there new $50,000 Persian rug....


    was the "spilling" done before or after the eating?
  2. I was watching a show last night about these guys that hunt for meteorites and they talked about this huge one that was used as an anvil and now presides in the smithsonian. I found this little article on it I am sure there is much more info out there but this seems interesting check it out http://www.meteorite...cted_TUCSON.HTM
    How Old Are Meteorites?

    If meteorites formed from dust from the early universe, then we would expect them to be very old. Indeed, this is what we find. Scientists have used radiometric dating to measure the ages of meteorites. The results show ages of around 4,500,000,000 years--about seven hundred million years older than the oldest rocks on Earth.




  3. For dies that don't need or want to rest on the wings, I use 7° vise jaws and a straight cutter rather than a custom made cutter. The first thing you do before starting a job is square up your blocks. Always!


    ya square it up thanks Grant
    this supplier only had the material in plate bar stock would have been a better choice but this was about half the price so I went with it

  4. My coal forge is a break drum design. Metal 2x4 stud for the frame and 1/8th inch floor plate for the hearth. I use a Bucket Head small shop vac for my air blast with an inexpensive dimmer switch for blast control. It works very very well. And now that the weather has warmed up a little bit, I actually get to use it.



    seems like I have seen this forge somewhere before......... oh ya every time I go to the home page! Love the use of the metal studs btw they are commonly refered to as 3&5 studs if they are 3 5/8 wide, or 4'' if they are 4'' wide

  5. Clinton

    The groove is on the underside of the die right?

    If so, it's to keep the top or bottom dies from moving sideways when driving the wedges in. There should be holes in the tup and sow block that "pins" fit into and these grooves locate with these pins. It's very useful when fitting any dies but especially combination dies where misalignment is more of a problem. It keeps the dies lining up side to side AND fore and aft.

    It's useful when first wedging up the dies and will also stop any tendancy of the dies to drift sideways if the dies have a large sideways components to the forces they recieve/apply.

    If there are no holes in your tup/ sow block, it could be that the dies are adapted from another hammer. My Anyang 40kg uses these pins and they are very useful



    Yes the groove is on the underside of the die, and I will check the sow block and tup for holes but I dont think there are any, so probably the dies were from another hammer
    thanks
  6. I just ordered a piece of 4140 to make some new dies for my commonsense powerhammer the dies that came with the hammer are quite useless for what I want to forge, I plan on making a set of combination dies, a fuller on one half and flat on the other side. The old dies have a groove on the bottom cut straight through; can any one tell me why this is there? It is about 3/4 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep. I will be having the dove tail machined in so it should not be a problem to add this groove if it is needed. here is a picture of it and a shot of the dovetail profile
    post-10376-12684913328495_thumb.jpgpost-10376-12684914486733_thumb.jpg

  7. welding in the rain? keep your gloves dry, try not to complete the circuit through your body (don't hold on to work while welding or holding a hot stinger) use a weed burner to dry stuff off before you weld, stay away from low hydrogen electrodes innershield wire like nr 211 would be a good choice or 6011 stick (good ol farm rod burns through dirt oil rust)
    more pictures after installed would be great

  8. The miller sychrowave will do nicely, as will the beer, I have to go check on a job today but this guy seems to be giving me a runaround. I will come up there and weld it for you I have lots of experience at stick welding, also I have temp sticks so don't worry about that. See if you can get the stoody rod it looks like stoodite 21 is what Robb is referring to https://www.mytherma...tabName=Manuals
    Well let me know when you get it together and I can shoot up there for a couple of days, oh I will check my rod oven today also there is all kinds of weird stuff in there lots of chrome molly rod I know

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