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I Forge Iron

A staple question

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Hi Gentlemen.
I have a question about right angled bends in 3/4" square stock. I have to make some log dogs for a hewing job, so I need to make a kind of long "staple" - 18" to 2' - with a 4" end at right angles (OK it doesn't absolutely HAVE to be right angled, but I would like to try it anyway). I have made them before by starting a rough slow bend and then "upsetting" a right angle by pounding the bar on the anvil face, and then refining with a hammer. I know upsetting isn't right but I can't think of a more appropriate description. How would you accomplish this "trick of the trade"

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This is a forging technique I first saw at Tom Clark's school. Hofi and Tsur taught it. If you ever saw Tom making giant nails with strikers, you may have noticed this on the staples that held his swage block stand together. I next saw this from Alfred Habermann in the Chech Republic where it is very common to see used in a variety of applications. I have since seen it in older publications. I believe this is another one of those old forging techniques rediscovered in todays modern world.
The pics are the steps. The finished one was done in 1 heat.


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Thanks for the information. I have seen plenty of bends with "shuts" in them, it's good to see that there is a way for the bend to be clean. I need to work on my forgeing techniques, and every now and then it's good for me to see "a proper job". Gerald. Mark has told me that I should venture to Afton, and get to meet you . I used to sell mineing equipment, and spent an unhappy month in Stuarts Draft, welding a new bottom in to a sand tower, in February, freezing my stubbs off. The guy who owned the sandpit at the time was called John Earhardt, he had a nice (huge) garage forge setup at his home, great guy, do you know him? I am makeing some flax retting frames, for a colonial re enactor and will be comeing to Staunton, to the museum when the weather warms up a bit, maybee I could come to the shop then.

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Just for grins try this: Get some #9 non plated brace wire ( rust is fine). Cut some pieces about 3 fingers long ( I use Klien side cutters ). Point both ends, make a right angle bend on both ends ( good stout tong jaw to hold and depth guage and hammer the other end or smack on anvil face). Now take the completed staple and put it on the heel corner points down. Smack the center and you have a period looking staple that is similar in nature to electrical staples. Take a box made to hold tools or whatever with the joints glued tight. Clamp the box and drive the staples over the joints to make appearance of them holding the joints ( actually I have just used the staples on some barnboard projects ). I keep #9 and 12 non plated wire by the roll in the shop for many things. Thanks for the pics Mark. I can't open pdf but thanks anyway Gerald. :)

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