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I Forge Iron

A1 or A2 for blades?


clifford

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W1 is what a lot of files are made from (others are 1095).

I use a lot of old files, and I think it moves well when it's in the proper forging range.

Remember, this is a really high carbon steel, so it is going to have a tight forging range. Heat to non-magnetic (critical) and work down to a red heat, then back in the forge. You can't push it like it's mild steel.

Like Bruce said... I'd stay away from the A's and M's and other complex steels, particularly the air-hardening stuff.

I have never used it, but I've heard good things about O-1. It is a readily available oil hardening steel.

Don

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I've used A2/S7/O1/h13 for chisels, gouges, and such. They're harder to work but handle the impact and heat stress of making wizards and animal heads, chasing, and other applications. As knivemaking requires much more refinement over the entire piece (instead of just the ends), I would not recommend using them for knives...

I am including a link to a link with suggested uses for different tool steels....

http://www.pvsteel.com/docs/Tsb-093.pdf

Chuck

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