Hillbillysmith Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Here's some of my stick welds. E6010 in the horizontal position: E7018 in the horizontal position: Please, any constructive criticism? :confused: Lets see everyone's stick welds and give/get any and all advise on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Ink Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Hillbilly your welds look nice and uniform.If you want less spatter with the 60 wire turn your amps down,or you arc length is to long.How long have you been welding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Black Ink: it's not 60 wire. It's E6010 stick electrode... I've been welding for just about 1-1/2 school years (I'm 18 and a senior in high school taking classes at a vocational high school). About 250-275 days; 1-1/2 to 2 hours per day on Stick, MIG, and TIG welding, brazing, oxy/acetylene cutting, and some oxy-fuel welding. But that's at school. I've been cutting and brazing for about 12 years now. Thank you for the kind words. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agsolder Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I had an AWS-certified welding teacher of vast pipeline experience tell me it's impossible to get a really good-looking bead with 6011, near-kin to 6010, both pipe rods. Mine certainly come out rough no matter what. These rods are not made for pretty, but for burning through gradue and floating slag up and out. Don't use 7018 as a root pass on an open joint, I recall, forget why. I'd say you are doing great with the 6010 and the 7018. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Thank you agsolder. And, you are right about the E6010 and E6011. They aren't for pretty, they're for deep penetration and used in the root pass of pipe welding. The reason that you don't use E7018 for the root is that it doesn't have the penetration rating that the 6010/6011 does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clw1985 Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 you got a good uniform bead, im havin a hard time seein the 7018 bead, i cant tell it looks like u have a little porosity in the 6010 bead? or is that from the slag hammer? if im stick welding, im using 6010's nearly always, when i use a 6010 i go foreward a 1/4" and back 1/8" make sure u watch the puddle fill completely otherwise it will look horrid, but going foreward and back burns the crap outta the way when u go to lay the bead down, plus it gives it that "roll of dimes" look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clw1985 Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 n/m my last comment on 6010, i zoomed in on it the i thought the roll of dimes look ur weld has was porosity looks good man. 6010 is a jerk of a rod sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Crabtree Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 If you run a 3/32 7018 you can get good drop thru with them. Its very tricky took me about 2 weeks to get the hang of it but the drop thru looks nice. Good looking welds. The 6010 is nice and uniform. I'm taking welding classes out at southwestern Illinois college and they put ya to work. We weld from 8am till 10:30 am take a 30 min break then back to welding until 1:30pm. Really great classes though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Dan, I have never heard of "drop thru" before, so please enlighten me. i want to go to Hobart School of Welding Technologies in just over a year. I graduate this year, but want to get to work first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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