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I Forge Iron

Fire Screen Assy


HWooldridge

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I got an order for a custom fire screen but am having trouble getting the wire cloth flat. I bought a #8 mesh, which has about a .105 opening and uses 27 ga wire. It's a real pretty weave and should make a nice job but it came rolled pretty tightly and had a set when I cut the roll. I tried to bend it backwards with my hands and got it fairly flat but it has a lot of little waves. Now, I can't seem to pull it enough to get it taut and flat. Anyone have the trick to doing this?

BTW, the screens I've built in the past were made with precut flat sections so they were pretty flat to start with but I can't get those pieces anymore. Maybe I got spoiled because I can't remember it being this difficult.

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Hollis: I didn't want you to think we were ignoring you. We just plain don't know. :oops:

However, is there a way to forge the frame so that screen is attached to members that draw it tight against the frame? I've done that with homemade house screens. Drill and tap the outer frame, and pull the inner frame using machine screws or bolts. Sorry I'm not much help. :(

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Well, I went out to the shop today and assembled the doors so here's what I did on the screen:

The frames are from 1-1/4x3/16 flat stock and I made "pinch plates" to lock the screen from 1/2x3/16 flat. I laid out the holes on 5" centers up the sides and 6" across top and bottom. After drilling one set of holes, I clamped the pinch plates to the frame and drilled thru them also so all the holes would match.

I had a spare set of vise grips laying around and welded a loop on the adjustment bolt so I could pull it, then welded two pieces of 1x1/4x4 flat iron in the usual jaws so I had a set of long flat jaws. I could therefore clamp the screen with the modified vise grips and pull 4 inches at a time with a come-along fastened to a heavy table. The door frame was clamped into a vise, the pinch plate aligned then clamped with a normal vise grip and the screen pulled. When I had a section taut, I would clamp the pinch plate in several places around the hole, drill thru the screen and both pieces of stock then finally slip in a 10-32 machine screw. After installing a nut and socking it down, I removed all the clamps and took another bite. By working my way around the frame, I was able to pull out most of the waviness in the screen and left it quite taut. In fact, the first frame was so tight it bowed a little so I had to tweak a bit to straighten it.

After the whole thing was assembled this way, I started replacing the screws with rivets. I used a vise grip to clamp near a hole, then removed the screw and replaced it with a rivet. The rivet was set cold and the clamp removed then the process repeated until all the screws were replaced.

This made a clean job and nice taut screen. Did not remove every bit of waviness but also not very apparent - it's just that I know it was there so I see it. I believe using this technique and starting with very flat panels would make a screen tight enough to play tennis with... :lol:

I'll post some pics when I get the whole thing finished. Thanks again for the suggestions...H

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