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I Forge Iron

My first anvil


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DON'T GRIND ON THE FACE! Vulcans tend to have quite thin face plates so don't thin it any more than necessary!

Mark the sweet spot and concentrate your hammering there and not at the ends.

Vulcan's are a quiet anvil---no ring and so good for in the city or suburbia.

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I see what you mean the rust is fairly light on that anvil; probably just didn't spend much time under poor storage conditions. (I once bought an HB that had spent 50 years in an unheated building next to a creek---quite marshy! It had condensation pitting on the face that I am polishing out by *using* *it*---the sweet spot is nearly smooth again and no face was lost *before* hot steel actually was worked on it.)

The Vulcan's I have owned or used tended to be a bit soft on the face so more hammer dings can be expected---plannish them out as best you can and go on. Check for signs of porosity where the cast iron meets the steel face of the horn. The Vulcan on my wall of shame had massive porosity in one location and the horn broke off there.

Check for cracks around the hardy/heel.

Definitely don't sledge on one! Vulcans are on the bottommost quality tier for real anvils but they are real anvils! You can do a lot of good work on one while waiting for another better anvil to be lured in by your Vulcan!

If you get used to having a quiet anvil then keep your eye open for a Fisher, same type of construction but much thicker face and higher quality! (My main shop anvil is a Fisher even though I own a Trenton that's over 400 pounds too!)

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