June 17, 201213 yr Nice looking piece. Did you forge the hex or just upset it from hex bar? I have a friend who has access to cnc machining centers and I plan on having him mill me a 2" thick block with a 1-1/4 inch square hole with about a 3/4 radius in it to upset flatters into and was considereing using something like 1045. I haven't decided whether slit the hole for the handle first or not. I will probably try it both ways. I was planning on buying the stock in inch and a half bar form and necking it slightly to drop in the upsetting block and go to town on the face upset. Can't wait to try it out.
June 17, 201213 yr A suggestion. The central working area of flatters are flat, but in order not to leave edge marks on the work, I have fallen the edges off 2 or 3 degrees with my disc sander and sanding belt. Say you have a 3" square flatter base, about 1/4" to 5/16" is relieved . Years ago, I worked with an older man originally from Mexico, Victor Vera. In Spanish, he called the flatter la plancha, which translates as the clothing iron. In Spain, they call it a martillo aplanador, a smoothing hammer.
June 18, 201213 yr Author Started with 4 1/2" 2" round. A suggestion. The central working area of flatters are flat, but in order not to leave edge marks on the work, I have fallen the edges off 2 or 3 degrees with my disc sander and sanding belt. Say you have a 3" square flatter base, about 1/4" to 5/16" is relieved . Years ago, I worked with an older man originally from Mexico, Victor Vera. In Spanish, he called the flatter la plancha, which translates as the clothing iron. In Spain, they call it a martillo aplanador, a smoothing hammer. Yes The working surface of the flatter is about 2 1/2
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