divermike Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 I came across a large bellows some time ago, the leather was shot, but in all other aspects this baby is ready to blow. I am going to let it go as I just don't have the drive to rework it. If a working smith or hobbyist smith is interested, I will be willing to talk about selling it. It came out of a blacksmith shop in western NY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOblacksmith0530 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Man I wish I were closer it would save me from having to make one from scratch. I have to make two and keep putting it off. I have a good set of plans, but would love to finger one that had bad leather and I could get inside of. By the way are the flap valves in this one? If so could you get a picture of them and post it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Hey man you can come look at mine. I have a big 2 lug almost 5 foot long. The leather needs to come off anyway. You can take it home for a while if that would help. I am getting ready to order leather for it. The best price is for a complete hide. but I don't need that much, maybe we could split it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOblacksmith0530 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Hey that might work out. I may even be coming back down past you from Minnesota later in the week. I will call you when I know more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Here is how I make bellows valves. The valve is basically a piece of baler belting from the local farm store with felt glued to one side and a block of wood glued to the other side. One end of the belting is screwed to the board and acts as the hinge. A short length of dog leash from the local discount store acts to limit how far the valve opens. I limit the opening of the valve to about 40 to 45 degrees. Traditionally leather was used for the flap and the strip that limits the opening. The block of wood keeps the belting flat and provides enough weight to provide a quick snap shutting the valve. The belting does not rot and is unlikely to wear out in my lifetime. I used the same valve construction in my wheeled Civil War era Traveling Forge, as well as the recent semi-portable forge that was inspired by a picture of a Civil War era Naval Forge. I used the second bellows on the semi-portable side blast forge at the local museum last weekend and by over-pumping it if not careful, enough air was blown into the forge to blow the coal up and out of the forge pan. The top and bottom boards for the bellows shown, are only 40 inches long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.