Forging a hot cut hardy

[Legg86]

Hey guys, from the last couple of posts of mine y'all might remember me as newbking . I started, and finished, a hot cut hardy and while it actually works (I was surprised), it looks like xxxx and I want to make a better one.
This is how I made it, much thanks of someone could tell me where I went wrong:
Started with 3/4" round stock (all I had), about 8" long.
Squashed it to about 5ish" and 1 1/2" (my uppsetting makes the thing bend constantly though, am I doing something wrong here?)
Tapered a square end and formed a shoulder on one side (I couldn't get more than that, my hammer squashed the other lips as I formed them).
Formed a makeshift blade and finished it on the grinder.

So it works, it won't fall out, and it only sticks a little, but it's pretty bad lol. Can someone explain what I Should have done instead?

[CurlyGeorge]

Got a picture of it? Maybe we could see better what you did. :)

[pkrankow]

Good on you! Without even seeing it I feel safe says GOOD JOB!

Upsetting is difficult, especially long lengths of material. Taking too long (length of material) of a heat makes it harder to control, and hammer control is needed to keep it from bending constantly, all the same straightening is normal.

Since you are making a hot cut I presume you do not have a large number of other tools yet, so grind to intent may be the best answer for now. When you get more experienced you may choose to tackle this tool again, or you may find it is quite acceptable the way it is.

What you DID do was gain valuable experience on working heavier stock. Stock over about 5/8 or 3/4 inch is a challenge for an individual without a striker, power hammer, press, or treadle hammer. Use of fullers and a striker would be the best way to make a hot cut.

My hot-cut hardy is lumpy and off centered because it was my first foray into heavier stock. It works good, and I don't plan to reshape it anytime soon. I made it with a 3# crosspein hammer and a 8# long handle sledge hammer.

Phil

[Legg86]

Man you're not kidding, 1/2-3/4 is no problem for me, but my 3# hammer and 100# anvil (and my shoulder) have a tough time with 1" and bigger. This was the largest piece I've worked on so far, and I was doing very little movement per heat.
It was just mild (welders?) steel and it's not tempered or treated cause I don't know how yet, but it holds an edge ok. I'm going to keep it for awhile. I actually made it to more easily cut my 1/4" stock for my also just created rivet form. I would have used the edge of my old Peter wright anvil but the poor thing must have got run over in its past life, the edges (and face) are all chipped and dented. Is there some way I can smooth the face? I'm not a machinist, but I think I Might be able to grind it smooth...

[pkrankow]

Post some pictures, apparently pics about 300 pixels x 300 pixels work properly, but big pics throw an error.

A lot of damage to an anvil face can be worked around, or ignored. You can plannish high spots into their corresponding dimple cold, but if the high spot is worn away it doesn't work. Chipped edges *can* be welded, but this is a serious undertaking that is best done with some high dollar materials. Making another hardy tool that has clean edges is a much better option, and a lot easier because the upsetting into the hardy is the last hammering step, then you hot-file it to neat and tidy.

Hope this helps some.

Phil

[Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks]

Next time I'm in the shop, I'll make a Brazeal style hot cut and put up pics of the process. they are quite easy to make and are hands down the best design I've encountered in my 17 years at the anvil.