reluctant ram

[memphisjed]

Currently using a Sayha hammer that is Tom Clark modified stock - check valves for separate intake/exhaust. After idling a short period of time the ram sucks up, when you feather the foot pedal the ram does not come down. I have to give the pedal some love to get the ram to come down, and when it does it arrives with authority. Once going the hammer control is ok, power ok. If holding the pedal light so the stroke stays in the top 3/4 range the hammer shakes and dances; after use before sticking imperial observation.
I have checked for burrs and wedges sticking - the chronic chambersburg (still best hammer ever) syndrome. Have not adjusted valves - control and power seem ok.
Other symptoms: hammer is loud, think this is due to the dual ball valve intake exhaust
2 oil settings - gusher and dry
and ram guide flat (and in turn ram) can rotate a fair more than a large smidge without much effort.

Any items that anyone knows to look at I would greatly appreciate.

[nonjic]

Hi, Welcome to the forum - Im afraid my knowledge on the turkish hammers is about the same as my knowledge of turkish food so can not offer much by the way of help - a couple of points that might be worth a consider though.. self contained hammers have an amount of oil they like, to much and they can play funny, not enough and the symptons are the same, erratic. I would get it so the oil is metered accuratly , check the check valves, insert a needle valve or somthing to smooth the flow. I would check the hammers speed - if self contained hammers are running to fast they can 'catch up' with themselves, ie the air has not fully exhauted before the next lot is boing pushed in. This can lead to 'grand old duke of york' syndrome, and the DT's you describe.. Love your writing style by the way - hopefully someone with a bit of know how will be along in a bit to assist you better. Also, I think someone has recently taken up the reins of SayMak ** in the states - it may be worth a call to them.

edit,
**

I am not sure if Sayha & SayMak are from the same stable.... sorry!

[peacock]

Kinda depends on when the hammer was built. are the bolts on the ram guide bushing tight? There may be a brass tapered wedge in the ram guide is it adjusted properly? Inside the case there is a treadle stop adjust so you get about an inch stroke at the top ( just like holding the treadle down a little). 1/8th turn on the oiler is plenty for most hammers. When it's cold I open it about 1/2 turn hold the treadle down to make about 90% stroke till I see oil in clear hose then back to 1/8th turn. Remove both mufflers hold your hand over each pipe one at a time one should suck the other blow if not remove top cover and top hat looking thing on top of rear cylinder see if one or more of the check valves has unscrewed if so replace and safety wire together so they wont back off also check to see if there is trash in the valve. Also might start checking belt tension or other slippage problem.

[memphisjed]

will check for brass tomorrow. Is there a reason for the check valve system? or can it be removed and a decent muffler and filter put in place, much like Nazel or ritter? Less banging and moving parts is always a bonus, and double bonus would be to get some of the noise down; The radio does not have an 11 setting to quiet it enough.

[monstermetal]

I dont quite get the check valve thing? There are checks for the compressor that need to be there but you shouldn't be able to see them from outside the hammer... on the old style hammers they where down inside the compressor head... The ram side to side movement should not be an issue to adjust out with the bronze wedge, if all the adjustment is used up just put a small shim behind it and your back in biz... The oil adjustment valve on all of them is junk.... I drilled and tapped the factory oil check and fitted a proper 1/4 needle valve and now have a very controllable oil system.... as far as the sticking ram I would pull the head off the ram cylinder and make sure there is no obstructions (worn ridge, broken ring, something) pull or push the ram up and down full stroke and see if physically it will go through the motions... if it will then you either got a valve or air issue.... simplest air issue to check is a slipping belt... about 20% of all Say Mak problems and be traced back to a slipping or oily belt... Make sure all the hoses are sound and the clamps tight... If you get that far and still got issues it gets a bit more complicated....