memphisjed

will check for brass tomorrow. Is there a reason for the check valve system? or can it be removed and a decent muffler and filter put in place, much like Nazel or ritter? Less banging and moving parts is always a bonus, and double bonus would be to get some of the noise down; The radio does not have an 11 setting to quiet it enough.

a few options from easy down: foot pedal to valve linkage warlered/loose spring return on pedal linkage weak or something preventing pedal/linkage from wanting to go all the way home (it does not take much in linkage to do this, think leaky faucet and you need zero air passage when pedal up. worn rear cylinder rings, these wear much faster due to they make complete cycles all the time the hammer is on. worn front lower ring, but this usually is accompanied with oil and air blowing scale in your face. factory valve settings are zero point, they are touchy too.

Currently using a Sayha hammer that is Tom Clark modified stock - check valves for separate intake/exhaust. After idling a short period of time the ram sucks up, when you feather the foot pedal the ram does not come down. I have to give the pedal some love to get the ram to come down, and when it does it arrives with authority. Once going the hammer control is ok, power ok. If holding the pedal light so the stroke stays in the top 3/4 range the hammer shakes and dances; after use before sticking imperial observation. I have checked for burrs and wedges sticking - the chronic chambersburg (still best hammer ever) syndrome. Have not adjusted valves - control and power seem ok. Other symptoms: hammer is loud, think this is due to the dual ball valve intake exhaust 2 oil settings - gusher and dry and ram guide flat (and in turn ram) can rotate a fair more than a large smidge without much effort. Any items that anyone knows to look at I would greatly appreciate.