Nolano Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I recommend reading some of the links MattBower added, especially the sword forum link. That should give you a decent grounding in what alloy contents do to steel. Machinery's Handbook and many other books list common scraps and what they are often made of, but it gives them in SAE numbers and tool steel designations, and they wont mean anything to you unless you have a basic understanding of alloy properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Carnecchia Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 Read...There is a ton of info on the web. If you don't have a forge then that is your first step. I suggest Ron Reil's sight for all the info you will need to build a forge and burner. Will cost around $100-150. It will also take a week or two, during this time do a little research on knife forging basics. You will also need an anvil, if you can find one cheap great, but any solid chunk of steel with a flat surface the size of your hammer face will get you started. again keep reading. To finish the knife you will need a grinder, I used a small belt sander held in a vise for over a year, possibly something you have already. If not then files will work. If you insist on using scrap to save money, and I did the same thing, use coil spring or old files and quench in oil. I still use vegetable. Even though I used scrap for quite a while I would recomend buying new. Something like 1084 is about perfect and good for beginers. The first two numbers indicate the alloy and the second numbers indicate the carbon content. the 10-- series is very low alloy and will be easy to forge, .84% carbon is a good amount for knives. Basically the 1084 will be forgiving of mistakes and easy to hammer. I tend to disagree with starting with mild or starting with learning things other than knives, if all you want to do is forge knives then start with forging knives. By my third attempt I had a very functional knife. The biggest thing is going to be doing some research. It is lot to expect of this forum to get you started making knives. The information myself and others have given you can point you in the right direction but it will be up to you to do the work. When the forum really shines is when you have already done the research and are forging your knives and you hit a snag with something. I have gotten lots of great information out of these forums but honestly they don't provide a foundation for starting out. That information is easy to find though just google knife forging tutorial. Please don't be discouraged, there is a lot to learn but if you focus on one thing at a time starting with a forge and some type of anvil you will get there fairly quickly. If you have any problems with your forge please ask, and when you get a knife or two done please share your work. Good luck, -Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12345678910 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I know blacksmithing is full of the traditional reuse of scrap material but I will encourage you to use a known steel. A huge factor in the performance of your knife is the tupe of steel and your ability to heat treat it properly. I wrote this for new members on Blade Forums & many links refer you posts there, but I believe that is is a valuable resource for users here too. I've put this together to answer most of a new maker’s questions. I'm sure it will help you too.The Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V18 The answer to a 13 year old student is different than to a 40 year old engineer. We may recommend a local supplier, you may have a helpful neighbour, or local Hammerin; but that depends on where you are. We have members worldwide. Please fill out your profile with your location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment, hobbies. Look at the threads stickied at the top; many are expired, but not all.The basic process in the simplest terms Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF-Right Click and SaveAbsolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-WebsiteWeb Tutorials Detailed instructions by Stacy E. Apelt The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htmBooks A list of books and videosBladeForums - E-books or Google books I like: David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman These are clear, well organized, widely available and inexpensive too.Knife Design: Think thin. A paring knife slices, an axe splits. Forget swords, Saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife. Start with a drawing. Show it to us, we love to see and comment on photos. Then make a cardboard cutout template & draw in handles, pins and such Then make it in wood, paint sticks are free & close to the right size. Play with that and see if it “feels right”. If it feels right it usually “looks right“ See the Google books thread for Lloyd Harding drawings, the Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns. Google books thread Bob Engnath Patterns compiled into a PDFForging Books: Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith An excellent modern book with colour photos for forging in general - no knifemaking. Jim Hrisoulas- has 3 books on forging knives. Check for the cheaper paperback editions. The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in SteelMachine Shop Basics -Books: Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF Right Click and save link as. It’s being reprinted now; you can get it for $20 ishThe $50 knife Shop It confused me for a long time. Forging is NOT necessary; you can just file and grind to create a knife (stock removal) Forget the Goop Quench. Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type; even grocery store canola oil works much better. Junkyard steels require skill and experience to identify the steel and heat treat it properly. You can buy proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo very cheaply. I like cable damascus, but that advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book. The grinders are the best thing about this book, but there is a huge amount of info for 2x72” belt grinders on the web, including free plans. Forget about Lawnmower blades and start with a new known steel type. Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench.Videos Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days.Safety-video Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days. Many specific how to knifemaking videos are available, some are better than others. The best overall Knifemaking video I have seen is “Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter” Basic Bladesmithing "Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO" The best video on leather sheath making for beginners that I have seen is “Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose” -(Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic, but more advanced-with machine stitchers..)Green Pete's Free Video Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat. "Green Pete" posted it free using torrent files. Be sure to look at the other titles too-The account index has disappeared, but search for LOTS of info. Use the keywords “LurkerLurker torrent” “knifemakerC torrent” and othersGreenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB How to download that videohttp://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide You can see a list of videos and reviews at this rental company; some are worth buying, some renting…http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/KnifemakingDraw Filing Demonstration YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish Steel The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes… is useless for knives. If you send out for heat treating, you can use Oil quenched O1, A2, Or air quenched CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, plus many others. If you want to heat treat yourself with minimal equipment, find some Eutectoid steel. 1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheapest & made for DIY heat-treat.http://njsteelbaron.com/ Phone # 862-203-8160 1095 is a good carbon steel, but a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment. 1095 needs very precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel You can find a list of suppliers here Heat Treating http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7 You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results, and avoid buying the equipment.Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs. http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos# http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)Grinder / Tools In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential . You can almost always improve tracking with more belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than youfirst think.Hand Tools You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video. Photo of a nice bevel filing jig Entry Level Grinders Many makers start with the Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grindershttp://www.cnccookbook.com/CCKnifeMakingGrinders.htm Mapp arm – Grinder Toolrest DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders KMG Clone Free Plans http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdfNWG No Weld Grinder http://www.usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages-p-723.htmlEERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards) http://wilmontgrinders.com/EERFGrinder.aspxhttp://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html Buy the kithttp://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.htmlWhat Belts to buy?http://www.usaknifemaker.com/abrasive-belt-basics-what-kind-should-i-buy-p-1393.html Safety Equipment Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and put on safety gear. Respirators Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life. The minimum I would consider are the 3M 7500 and North 7700 silicone half masks with a P100 Filter. Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for protection against acetone and solvents.http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788837http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726309 Searching Search works for ALL users, even unpaid users. Try it, I’ll bet you’re not the first to ask the question here This is a special Google page that searches BF only. http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644%3Aqfobr3dlcra V18 Edited links August 25, 2011. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 That was a well thought out piece you posted 123 etc,,,do you havre some pics of your work you could share with us or al ink to your web site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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