Rhrocker Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Those soft insulating bricks are talked about here quite a bit, and how fragile they are always comes up. I'm getting ready to build a forge using the soft bricks (not a one-brick type), and had an idea I wanted to run past you guys. What if a person used some of that rigidizer (used for kaowool) on he bricks? I though about filling a pan with about 1/4" of rigidizer, and setting a brick in it for a few seconds, then rotating to each of the six sides letting each set for a few seconds also. Do you think this might help strengthen them up some? Only downfall I can think of is that the rigidizer is expensive, and I bet those bricks would soak up that stuff like a sponge. Another option is to use a brush and apply a coat to the brick, but to me, letting the brick set in the liquid seems like a better idea. Also, maybe the inside of the brick could be coated if making a one-brick forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyScott Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Robert, Are you building a 'stack' type forge? Yes, the soft bricks are fragile. In my two bricker I lined the forge chamber with Satanite and ITC-100 and it was very hot. I used 1/2" angle aluminum cut into 1" lengths placed on the edges to prevent the wire wrapped around the forge (to hold it together!) from cutting into the bricks. I had to coat the exterior with Satanite to provide a hard shell to the forge or it would have slowly just eroded away from being handled (I hauled my two bricker to several hammerins). Rigidizer is expensive; Satanite is not that expensive. Only worry about the forge chamber surfaces, a couple of very thin coats of Satanite, let dry and heat cure between coats and followed by two very thin coats of ITC-100. Keep in mind the soft fire bricks will crack from the thermal expansion/contraction as they heat and cool. If your burner is at high pressure, you may get little squirts of flame poking out hither and yon. Looks cool at night! Oh, I almost forgot.. if using Satanite, mist the soft brick surfaces before applying the Satanite, otherwise the brick will suck the moisture out of the Satanite and it will fall off the brick. I ended up with very thin Satanite and multiple coats to get the thickness desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhrocker Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Randy, thanks for the tips! I'm building a couple of differient soft brick forges. One is like yours, and is a small portable 2 bricker. I had initially thought I'd surround the soft brick with 1" hard brick, then wire that all together, but your ideal of using the aluminum angle may just be better, and certianly lighter! I have a gallon of rigidier on it's way here, and still might brush some on the surfaces of the bricks, this should help with the water absorption in the Satinite. Yes I have both Satinite and ITC-100. To me the main problem area is the placement of the torch head. You're either directly heating the work, or just a segment of it. I've experimented placing it underneath, on top, on the side, on both sides (is the best yet) and coming in from the back of the forge. Still working on that. My other forge is a stackable blown forge. Not all hat large, but big enough to get most work into it that I do. BTW neither of the brick forges will be used for forge welding. I have a large two burner (T-Rex's) forge I build about 6 years ago, and once I rebuild it (new kao) I'll do all of my forge welding, mostly knives, in it. I'm talking pictures and will do a little article when I'm done and everyhing is working. Thanks for the input! I really do appreciate it! R. Hensarlng Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyScott Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 To me the main problem area is the placement of the torch head. You're either directly heating the work, or just a segment of it. Robert, The 'burner portal' is, to the best of my memory, centered in the length with one edge of the hole tangental to the upper chamber surface. It creates a hot spot from Top Dead Center around to about the 4 o'clock position. Yes, the center portion of the blade gets a lot of heat which is not a problem during initial rough forging. As the stock becomes thinner, I just back off on the heat. Thought I had some photos of my two bricker. If you want, I will try to shoot some photos tomorrow of the two bricker, my burner torch head mount and my home made choke for the Bernz-O-Matic JTH-7 burner. My two bricker is four years old and is looking rather beat up now and is in semi-retirement. I will send them to your email address on your website.. BTW, beautiful rockers! Nice knives also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhrocker Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 Robert, The 'burner portal' is, to the best of my memory, centered in the length with one edge of the hole tangental to the upper chamber surface. It creates a hot spot from Top Dead Center around to about the 4 o'clock position. Yes, the center portion of the blade gets a lot of heat which is not a problem during initial rough forging. As the stock becomes thinner, I just back off on the heat. Thought I had some photos of my two bricker. If you want, I will try to shoot some photos tomorrow of the two bricker, my burner torch head mount and my home made choke for the Bernz-O-Matic JTH-7 burner. My two bricker is four years old and is looking rather beat up now and is in semi-retirement. I will send them to your email address on your website.. BTW, beautiful rockers! Nice knives also! Hey Randy I appreciate you sending the pictures, sure, send away! I understand what you're saying about the burner placement. Mine isn't going to be 100% for knives, but for doing the smaller elements to some of my fireplace screens where it doesn't make sense to use a really big forge for a leaf, etc. Again, the portability is what I like. I'm even thinking that sitting at my Say Mak (yes, I sit) making those 100's of darn grapes, I'd be better off with the small forge. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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