February 1, 201115 yr I would not use linseed oil for anything that would come in contact with clothing (real stinky stuff) I would go with a polyurethane or polycrylic finish on the wood The real trick with any finish is to let it set up before you let anyone sit on it. Any oil will take a few days to completely harden,you can cut that time by adding some japan driers to it. The problem with poly or any other film finish is that once it sets up it dents and then chips rather easily when used on soft wood.It is plastic after all and once it`s damaged it`s hard to repair so it blends in and doesn`t show where it`s been repaired. Around our place anything the grandkids come in contact with is finished with oil.They like to run around on the dirt drive then come in and dance on the coffee table or drag the cat across the "boot bench" by the mudroom door. Sooner or later that cat`s gonna figure out claws don`t work on oak and decide to sink the claws into what`s doing the draggin`. :o
February 1, 201115 yr Author Here are a couple pictures of the tops and a process picture to show joinery layout. I will take a detailed picture of a leg tenon today... I put a 3 part stain system on these. 1st was a conditioner to help the stain take evenly, 2nd was minwax, sadona red and 3rd was a leftover cherry stain I had... I think it was english walnut or something like that. Anyway, I still have to top coat everything. I will be using a satin Lacquer because I have it. chyancarrek- I took a picture of the top flipped like you suggested.... Mainly bob- If you keep a film finish thin- in theory, it will bend with the dent and not crack. Yea, but what is thin enough and still provide protection you ask? I believe it is 3 microns.... Basically, I do 2 "wet" coats with Pre cat Lacquer thinned 20 to 30% depending on the weather. One is a sanding sealer and the last is usually semi gloss rubbed with fine scotch brite for the hand rubbed look. I learned the other day that as of this year, California has banned all VOC's from automotive finishes..... Clinton- I have had many conversations about boiled linseed oil and its use as a finish. Many believe it is not a Finnish at all, rather an enhancer. I believe it is a finish with limitations. linseed oil is good to keep the wood hydrated to reduce surface cracking and cellular degrade. It does harden over time. If you apply the finish and let it dry for a few days then set the piece in a warm environment like the sun, it will swet out some of the oil that has seeped way into the grain. This will need to be wiped off. I feel linseed oil is a good finish for outdoor furniture but it requires maintenance.
February 2, 201115 yr Fe, I do like the look of those live edges down but either way, they've come out beautifully - Nicely done!!!
February 2, 201115 yr Good morning all Fe-Wood,very nice design. A little taller one has a sofa table, shorter and wider one has a coffee table, bigger all the way around a dinning table; very slick. Is the blue stain from beetle kill pine and is there a way to accentuate this during the finishing process. tks grant
February 3, 201115 yr Nice iron and wood work, very nice. It's good to see you making beautiful things again. Life must be getting better day by day :D
February 4, 201115 yr Author Grant- Now don't you go pilfering my design Glad you like it Bentiron- Thanks!! Its nice to feel like its comming back.....
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