Sledge hammer handles

[Strine]

I've just been browsing the blueprints, because I can, and found an interesting one about replacing old sledge handles. Nice one Stephen Fowler (BP296). In the past I have had the good fortune to work with young folk who have little or no experience in swinging a sledge hammer with any sort of accuracy in hitting a survey peg. (Kids just don't learn the basic necessities of life anymore). So there were always handles that needed replacing. Much of the time taken for the repair was in removing the old handle.

To speed the process and to extend the life of the various wood chisels, screwdrivers, drill bits etc that were being mangled in the process I came up with a half drift. This was simply a length of decent stuff forged down to a half moon shape. The idea was to drive out only one half of the reamaining handle. As the long wedge had already split the handle it was easy. There was no need to remove any wedges and the whole operation took a few seconds.

Yes...I was paid for the boost to company profits... with the usual jabs at the old bloke for having 'bin around' longer than the youngies.

And no...the old handles didn't go to waste.

PS. As I proof read this I wonder whether the idea didn't come from the net in the first place. I apologise for standing on anyone's foot

[irnsrgn]

I just cut the rest of the handle off close to the head and have several punches made to fit different eyes that I just drive the whole piece out and then salvage the steel wedge or wedges, and then use my metal cutting band saw to cut several wood wedges from the handle, one for use in the new handle and the others for stock, after all the old handle is dry cured hickory and much better than the wedges that often come with new handles.

[Mr Smith]

This may be off topic slightly, but here goes.

I've come by a couple of hammers in the past which the handle has broken, and the enterprising owner has welded a length of pipe in, in place of a handle.

To repair these, you have to cut off the pipe as close to the head as possible, then heat the hammer up and push the remaining pipe out.

I found for these jobs that a drift made to the same shape as the eye, but with a completely flat end helps to knock the remaining pipe out. That's if you could be bothered with the effort, of course.

[irnsrgn]

Only thing worse than a pipe handle for jarring you up is a fiberglass handle.

[bipolarandy]

Jr, whats wrong with the fiberglass handles? I'v never used one, just wondering.

-Andrei

[Strine]

A painted handle is also not good...or so I'm told by an old wife (not mine). Trusting the wisdom of old wives I've never put it to the test.

When a handle becomes slippery smooth through use, a lick of linseed oil will fix it..."a little dab'l do ya"

[irnsrgn]

Andy the ones I have used are like a rope stretched across a wide opening once you hit something it starts vibrating and just keeps vibratring in your hands, makes my hands and arms hurt.

[Mr Smith]

I'd agree with Irn. Fiberglass is good for the small hammer, though, but for axes and sledges, it leaves a bit to be desired.

[bbb]

I usually use some silicon sealantaround the wood, before I put in the wedges, this will keep the handles on when they dry out. To tighten up flea market hammers, I use big wood screws . Definition of a screw? rotary wedge !