July 14, 200916 yr I need to get busy on 8 garden-gate hinges. They will have a spear-point fineal on the end (see pic). I have a good idea which direction I will go, but I would appreciate any advice from anyone who has experience with this technique. I plan to use 3/16" x 2" flat stock. Thanks in advance. Don
July 14, 200916 yr Isolate the amount of metal needed for the spearpoint, using spring fullers with a kiss block so they all have the same width at the base of the spear head. A "blacksmiths taper tool" would be helpful to gauge the taper of the stap as you shape it. For this one job, I would weld four pieces of stock together to form the silouette of the strap, not counting the spearpoint. Work from your fullered spot back when forming the taper. This way if there is a length discrepancy it is easy to rectify. Before you roll the hinge barrels on the end of the strap, taper the end about 1/2" long, to 1/2 it's original thickness. A grade 8 bolt makes a good pin to roll around. Start the roll the way you would start a scroll over the edge of the anvil. If you haven't rolled hinges before, practice before you use the straps you already put a lot of work into.
July 15, 200916 yr Author Thanks for the help, arftist. That gives me some good stuff to work with. The kiss block and taper gauge will be great. And yes, I have rolled a lot of hinge barrel... it's getting there from the other end that presents the challenge. I'll post some pics when I finish them.
July 15, 200916 yr Before even fullering, I'd put the point on the mass you are about to isolate, if they are spearpoint finials. That has saved me tons of trouble many times. best of luck, Archie
July 15, 200916 yr Author I can see that, now that you mention it. No use fighting that skinny neck and worrying about it deforming or cracking. Good call, Archie. Thanks.
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