Alwin Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 That's wonderful, thanks for showing all this. The end of those tongs are different from any I've seen. How does the v-split hold? Do you have to hold those tightly shut to prevent stock from pivoting from such a small grab point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Not really, they are pick up tongs for holding under the hammer [power hammer or striking hammer] on the anvil. They are great for manipulating your stock, whether it's a hammer start or a small punch or chisel. They have a small end so they don't get hit by the hammer, but like I said this is only one example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Interesting. I will make a pair like that when I get the chance. I have seen the many varied designs of Hofi- they look like great tongs. I have made some similar to many which he makes. The bend in Habermann's tongs is interesting, do you think that there is a difference between the bend between the eye and jaw in his design and the more regular curve in the standard design as far as the performance of the tongs. It does seem like there might be a slightly stronger grab with his design, maybe not though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 There probably is, but I don't know if it would be noticeable unless you were trying to pry with them. Tongs are not for prying with except for scrolling tongs, they're for holding. I don't think you'd notice any apprieceable difference in the two, but they are very simple and easy to match up which can be one of the most challenging things about making tongs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alwin Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 I find that I am often working on many small items in the forge at the same time. They must be worked quickly and then switched for the next one. Do you use tong rings in those situations? It is with that work in mind that I've been exploring some different tong options-like the Ti tongs. I am also thinking that even barely perceptible differences in shock transfer over many years and tens of thousands of instances may make a difference in my ability to avoid joint and tendon damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 I find that I am often working on many small items in the forge at the same time. They must be worked quickly and then switched for the next one. Do you use tong rings in those situations? It is with that work in mind that I've been exploring some different tong options-like the Ti tongs. I am also thinking that even barely perceptible differences in shock transfer over many years and tens of thousands of instances may make a difference in my ability to avoid joint and tendon damage. Yes and no, it just depends on what I'm doing and how well my tongs hold a certain profile. If the tongs don't really hold it well you are going to have to make a tong that does or just bring it out and make sure your hammer and anvil are lined up properly where they support your work and just hold it in the air. Hand work is really no different than power hammer work, if you are not holding your material correctly where your dies don't support your work you are going to feel it in your joints. I don't have any picture to show you this ,but if you were to see my hammer making video you would be able to see what I'm trying to explain. I am using tong clips, and am holding my tongs very loosely. Everytime you see a missed or chattery blow you'd notice the change in the grip of the tongs. The tongs I am using do not really grip the hammer I am making, But it doesn't matter. What matters most is holding the material under the dies[hammer and anvil] and hitting it squarely. Hand work by yourself is no different. Missed or chattery blows will always disipate somewhere. Don't try and hold it or force it; it doesn't work that way. A power hammer will teach you that real quick. Hand work is no different. I hope I'm communicating this cleaarly for everyone. This is very important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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