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I Forge Iron

angled tenon

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I have a couple of ways of dealing with this problem.

1.) cut the end of the bar to the desired angle, drill and insert a piece of round bar. Either thread the hole and round bar or plug weld.

2.) If you are looking for a more 'traditional' approach I have two methods

-Form your normal tenon on the end of the bar, but with shoulders on three sides of the tenon only. One side of the tenon is level with one side of the bar.

Take another bar with a hole the same size as the tenon and hold it so that the bar is on the same side as the longest shoulder. Hit the bar while lowering you hand. This will cause the bar to upset on the long shoulder side and drag the tenon along with it.

- When cutting for the tenon, place the cuts in the position that you want the eventual shoulder of the tenon to be.
Draw down the tenon holding it flat for the sides and at an angle for the top and bottom. I find it useful to place the bottom cut edge on the side of the anvil, hold the bar at an angle and drive in the top corner. This sets the mass in the angled direction.

I'm sorry, but I don't have any photos of this. It may take me a few days to come up with some.

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Sometimes I have difficulty making them square!

I agree, I find monkeying the shoulders to be a bit of a bug bear.

My work around is to drill the size hole that I require into the end of a square bar, close to one edge.

I then cut the top off the bar at the angle I need the tenon set at. I then make another cut behind the first by about 1/2 inch leaving me with a 1/2 inch thick square washer with and angled hole in it. A bolster plate

I weld a square bar onto the larger flat surface so that the plate can be locked securely in a vice - off to one side.

The tenon can now be placed into the hole and the bar behind the tenon can be struck, driving the shoulder onto the bolster plate.

I use the same sort of thing for my angled pass throughs as it sets the drift to the correct angle.

Another way is to use the angle iron vice jaws that are popular with 'animal head' smith and clamp the tenoned bar against it and drive on a monkey tool.

The monkey tool has to be of the correct size or it will contact the angle iron before the shoulder is dressed.
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