DennisG

Beaumont???

dang man, you gonna git citified soon. have you had a chance to pound steel yet? Oh yeah, I am in Edmonton.

BTW, check the calender for meeting days.

nice!

machined tracking?

Being a dad and teaching my daughter blacksmithing I wanted her to have her own hammer, one we made for her. We started with a block of 4140H about 1 1/2lb. She picked out a handle that felt right in her hand and she even preped it. We were doing well since I had not made a hammer in years and am still trying to learn how to do it. This was a 2 weekend project and as you can see in the later pics I was making it a right handed one. I now know that one mans minute, is a hammers 10. The last pic shows the finished paper weight. Next weekend we start over and pay more attention.

Well here is a couple of my vise's. A 55lb leg vise and a 100lb table top vise, work was throwing a few away so I grabbed a couple.

I did an interior railing job for a new construction. Brought the piece to the house to install and as it so happened the homeowner was there at the time. I placed the piece at the top of the stairwell while the homeowner watched from below. the rail was 1/2 in. too short width wise at the top and 1/4 in. too short at the bottom . The homeowner was not impressed at all. Embarrased , I brought thr railing out to my truck and told him I would return the next day with the railing finished right. Told him I needed to build a hydraulic rail streacher. I returned the next day and installed it with a perfect fit. He never once blinked an eye when I made the comment about the rail streacher.

This rose was made as a one piece from an RR spike. It was a fun thing to make even when I messed up a bit doing the petals. I brought it to a guild meeting and they all liked it and want to try it sadly I can't let them. I seem to have lost the paper I had for doing it, can't find the file on my computer to make a copy, and don't seem to have a bookmark for it. Has anyone every come across this type of rose design before? If you have seen this before please pass on the file, url link, or whatever you have. Thanks.

Thanks guys, now to see what my brother will make.

Well MM, after reading the extended write up of the situation and the advice given so far, I vote for taking on a retired or semi retired metal worker. The other option is a retired semi retired office person. Good luck with this and let us know what happens.

Seems that ppl are looking but maybe don't know what I am referring to so here is an example of what I have found but am looking for more ideas on.

My two cents......

Being the "worker" in the shop for most of my working age, I would have to say that you are expecting alot for nothing. That being said I will explain what I mean.

As an experienced employee going into a new shop you are expected to know thing and depending on yrs in an industry will depend on the amount of knowledge. What also is a factor is what you have learned in your yrs in a trade. Since I am a welder/fitter by trade I will speak of that.

I was taught to weld AND fit in the welding trade. I am currently just a welder as the company has just fitters. When I started I had a basic knowledge of welding and building things. The learning curve is great and I was taught how to do things as per that shop and by those vastly more knowledgeable then myself. My first shop was a small fab shop, we did lots of one ofs or small order things. I moved and ended up in a vessel making shop (oil field / refinery) there I learned more on welding and fitting but it was on a very much larger scale then I originally started at. Over my years of working as a welder, 23 and counting, I have learned alot, and forgot alot, but through it all still keep learning.

At each shop I have worked I have done my job as I know best to do it and this is where you seem to run into a problem. I have learned to do something a certain way, it may be the wrong way to you but it is not to me. I of course have learned to do some things easier or different in my years. When I pass on knowledge of doing something it is always with the line " this is how I do it, someone else may have a different way of doing it, learn it and adjust to what works for you". I have had apprentices show me new ways to do things. I found it best to be left with a project to do, checked on from time to time, questioned as to steps and whys, then when it is all done, educated on how something could have been done faster or easier. As time goes by harder projects were left in my hands, and the boss was always open to questions on a "how do I.....". I never stayed at a place very long if the boss always started in with "you are doing it all wrong!" or "@#%$! IT'S NOT ROCKET CARPENTRY!!!!". Patience and understanding pay off.

If you want someone to do what you do how you do it then spend money on getting a clone made (thats a funny not serious). If you want a fully experienced person to do the work then you will have to pay for it and also step back and let them do the job they know how to do, but then you can also watch and learn and or CONSTRUCTIVELY critique. The other and best option is to get an apprentice who has better then basic knowledge ( a thinker is good), who understands that the pay curve goes with the knowledge curve and watch and teach them. The upside to this option is that they will learn to do things your way, you will see their progress, and yes at first it will be slower but in time that will change.

If you have a local trade school or vocational high school in your area, take a coffee break and go visit their welding department. Talk with the instructors and find out which student they think is good candidate to work in your shop. Instructors can get a good feel for the students and this would work to your advantage as a pre screening of a possible future employee.

I think it is best to remember that everyone does things differently. Yes, you have the capital invested, and it is your name out there, but there is only one of you, now you just need to find another who is similar to you or has the drive like you do.

As the saying goes " you gotta kiss alot of frogs to find your prince"

hope this helps.

I think perhaps that some willing soul in Oz should do extensive testing and provide the group with a full report. Alternatively, if there are none brave enough for the task, you could ship a case to me and I'll gleefully sacrifice for the team.

I have been looking at the forums for awhile and every time I see a topic about forge hoods and designs I get interested. What I see is the usual messages about the side drafts, or the pipe, with standard pics. Yes these are good for shops and such, but what I am looking for is the actual plans or drawings for a hood that I can put on and take off my forge whist outside and or at demos. Any ideas, drawings, links, files, whatever you have or know where I can get them would be great. Thanks.

I like it! Then again I made my own also so I am partial to home made from scrap. I would also say have an opening at the back side for longer pieces. My forge has a raised lip all around except for 12" on the front and back except for the back I made a "gate" that I can remove should the need arise. Seeing your fuel trough on the side like that gives me an idea of making one I can add to the side of my forge also. Great work.

I can't believe you posted THAT pic! What were you thinking showing something like that?

I am talking about the empty beer bottle, the sword looks good for a first try.

the info on this thread might be helpful. I posted what I use on it and if applied at a good heat the piece has that "Blacksmith finish"as my wife calls it.

I can't believe you posted THAT pic! What were you thinking showing something like that?

I am talking about the empty beer bottle, the sword looks good for a first try.

*** Also posted at ***

My two cents......

I use a paste I learned about I believe here. It is 1 prt bees wax, 1/2 prt linseed oil, and 1 prt varsol. Apply to a warm piece and wipe excess off. Gives a nice old black "blacksmithed" look.

Here is where I learned about it......

http://www.youtube.c...u/6/bcndMLZV7hs

My two cents......

I use a paste I learned about I believe here. It is 1 prt bees wax, 1/2 prt linseed oil, and 1 prt varsol. Apply to a warm piece and wipe excess off. Gives a nice old black "blacksmithed" look.

Here is where I learned about it......

http://www.youtube.com/user/purgatoryironworks#p/u/6/bcndMLZV7hs

I have several holding pins for down hole drilling tools, they are chrome plated. I heat them up to almost yellow then let the cool, so far so good. I guess you could also grind the chroming off, in a well vented place.

Hello Zuk,

I am not sure where sunnybrook is but HELLO from Edmonton. There is a Blacksmith guild in Alberta, and we meet the second sat of the month at the Leduc Antique site. You are going to be very happy here, TONS of info and help. Look around ask questions and enjoy. Have any questions ask away, always willing to help.

DennisG

Hey guys my names Ryan Im from Sunnybrook, Alberta, Canada, I have been interested in blacksmithing for quite some but only last october did I start actively blacksmithing I took an introductory course at nait and purchased some blacksmithing equipment (anvil, post vice, line drive, two blowers one power one hand, and a grinder, and a shoe last with shoes the guy threw in because he didnt want it) Im really enjoying it so far and have started to set up my shop. Looking forward to learning lots from everyone here.

Divermike, your post gives me hope also. I do look at some things and think " ok, to do that I would have to start with......" One day I hope to be able to just do it, like driving. I think I will keep more tabs on my daughter as she learns.

I started to learn to Blacksmith about 6 yrs ago, after a yr I brought my 2 girls along to meetings. I stopped after 3 yrs and just got back into it about 1 yr ago. My oldest has moved away but my youngest is the artsy type and is now coming over weekly to relearn and start making things she has thought of. She is 17 now so was 11 - 12 when she started. I will post her stuff when she makes them. I just hope she gets on here to learn even more then I could possibly teach her.

Hello Alec

Could you maybe expand your post a bit and explain copper fusion and the method you use to do it. A pic of the piece would be fantastic.

I'd like to learn more about it myself.

What do I do to start my fire....

After unlocking and opening my "shop" (8'X10') I put the trash can outside the doors. I then move the space heater from it's spot facing the anvil. Since it gets to -20+C here I heat my anvil/shop with a space heater until I get a fire going. I clean out my fire pot from my last play date, separating the coke, clinkers and dust. I sweep it all clean then turn the blower on full for a quick blast to clean it. I fill my coal bucket, then take a few sheets of newsprint and make a ball. Putting the ball in the middle of the fire pot I surround it with fresh coal, then cover with a little kindling, start fire and turn blower on low. When flames start up nicely I add coke from the previous time and then turn up blower, add more coal to make a mound and put a hole at the top. When the fire is established I put 3 plates over it, these are heated and put on the anvil face to heat it, I will also lay my hammers on the edge to warm up also. While plates are heating, the shop is warming, I will unload the truck if need be or shovel snow. When the plates are hot and on the anvil, I sweep out the snow from the shop that I brought in and pick out the pieces I will need for the days work. After putting on my apron and hat, turning on my Ipod, I drink a little more coffee and get ready for the fun.

This is how I start out. I have to get my fire going quickly as it is cold here and I like to stay warm. I have worked in this unheated, uninsulated, gap openings in the roof line, with the front doors ajar at -25C and had reading of +40C once the fire was well under way.

Where I work I am fortunate enough to work with a retired Rail welder. I brought the larger "hammer" in for him to inspect since some stamping said. "CNR" which is Canadian National Rail up here in Canada. He saw it and immediately said I had an old hot cut they used to use when welding rail together. Gonna turn it into an eye maker for hammers now. BTW, got both at the flea market for 20$.