thecelticforge

absolutely. That "rule of thumb" works for all spring loaded triphammers that I have ever used, the rest distance between top and bottom dies should be about two fingerwidths

With the electric motor turned off so that the hammer won't pound, a good distance between the top and bottom die, "rule of thumb" is the distance of the thickness of your index and middle finger together(about an inch and a half). This is to be measured WITH THE HAMMER TURNED OFF, otherwise, you might accidently crush your fingers. If the dies are too close while the hammer is at rest, you might do damage to your dies. If that distance is too great, your tup mechanism gets strained.

It's me again Margaret... Actually, it's Wind.

I have a conundrum here. My Fairbanks hammer came with two dies The lower is flat with a "V" notch in it. The upper one is just flat. I thought that the previous owner had just put a too small die in the top because when I loosened the pitman arm and the hammer dropped down as far as it could go, the linkage from the side arms to the hammer rested upon the frame. There was still a good inch and a half between the two dies.

I just removed the dies from the pickeling solution (cleaning) and I saw that the top die had marks where it had been dubbing against the "V" notch in the lower die.

How is this possible? The side arm linkage won't allow the hammer to go any lower, yet when the linkage is resting against the frame, there is a full inch and a half between them.

If it helps, the dies had a good 3 inches between them when I purchased it.

This is my first post and I need help!! I have a Thompson Mfg blower Made in New Brunswick that chewed a gear that drives the fan. This gear seems to be a cast aluminum???? If anyone has an old blower for sale I am in need. Thank You ---Marty

Keep the leaf hot.

So, are you saying you can't forge weld quick enough?

When my Grandfar would case harden stuff, he would make a "box" out of clay and pack it with shavings off of a horse's foot and the piece to be hardened. I seem to remember he kept it bright red all night and then quenched it. I was the one that got to get the clay from the creek and make the box.

I just made a fire place poker using my welder. All I had to do was heat and hammer and I will be darned if I can tell the difference between electrical and forge weld on the finished piece.

I confess that I did not wish to embrace modern technology for two reasons. There are certain sets of skills that I think are needed by every blacksmith that often times are not learned well if at all because it is easier to do things "the fast way." Also, my father was a cheapskate. There is no way around it. He bought the least expensive equipment that he could. That I think really turned me off of modern techniques.

I have had a good year in the forge, so much so, I splurged. I now have a power hammer, a very nice welder, a metal chop saw, and other assorted toys. I now realize that my distrust was unfounded and I have changed many of my opinions.

However, I still recommend having an excellent foundation in the basic and advanced skills first before one tries to make a living with a hammer. That then would be a good time to get all the toys.


Wind Chapman

Ho veduto Grant trascinare un un giorno Catena. Gli ho chiesto perché stava trascinando la catena. Ha detto in un accento volgare: I don' la t sa spingerlo.

;)

No need to grind. just reverse the plating process, immerse in muratic/hydrocloric acid and conect to your battery charger or to a spare car battery much like rust removal but using acid instead of washing soda!
Ian

I heard that when I was a kid. Except Jerry Clower was telling it and it was the Ledbetter's truck. I do think however the accent at the end made it much better :~)

Glad every one is okay ~:)

Here is a great list...

http://anvilfire.com/eBooks/

I noted that the metal is galvanized also!

I have found a workable solution for the oil dilemma! Lucas hub oil mixed with non detergent motor oil. It makes the oil tacky and will stick to the parts while still being able to flow. You can change the weight of the oil to adjust for temperature. Just mix the oils together according to the directions and apply enough heat to be able to mix the oils together.

Martial Law for Blacksmiths: I keep trying to picture what we would look like in uniforms...

Dayum Dude! Getting an excellent eye!

Way cool video. Funny, we are both ex Fort New Salem blacksmiths and both of us have a photo of Ronald Regan in our shop. Glad to know there are other blacksmith Gipperites out there!

It's leaning because the smith who had it made had one leg shorter than the other. It was an injury he received during the war of 1812.



Okay, it was sheer artistry, but it was awfully good story telling.

The spring between the pitman arms has 1/8 spacing top and bottom between the coils. Does anyone know how much there should be?

Belts, where do we get belts? Leather or synthetic? I do know a guy in CA that does leather belts.

Thanks for the photos! Now, I just need some dies. I really want some free hand dies and a set like you have on your hammer.

There is a guy in Austell, Ga just west of Atlanta that usually has anvils for sell. He advertises regularly in the Ga Farmers & Consumers Market bulletin. If you don't get the bulletin, contact the Ga Dept of Agriculture to subscribe. I bought my 1st anvil from him. He had all kinds, brands, & wieghts. He also had an old coal forge and various tools the last time I went up there.

I live in Dahlonega. If you are close by come by. I am usually in Hancock park on Saturdays. You can PM me if ya need.