thecelticforge

There is one on 129, south of Gainesville about 10 miles. Take a box of doughnuts :rolleyes:

If you wish to stick them together, then you are brazing yes. I am not totally sure of what you wish to do as I only just woke up but if you wish to coat the nails with the bronze, then you can heat the nails with the gas and quickly brush them with a bronze brush.

I just finished the hole for the footing for my Fairbanks. I wanted it done last fall but my wife was diagnosed with cancer. I have 18" of reinforced concrete, under ten inches of plywood sandwiched together (except under the anvil, that is end grain oak), and that under one half inch matting. 3/4 inch threaded rod goes through all 3 layers to keep the hammer still.

I have a 12 inch clay flue in mine and at times I think it may have too much volume to create the velocity that I had planned for. I hear tell 8 inch is good enough, but if I had to do it again, I would go with 10 inch. Every thing will depend on every thing else too. Study a lot, and make the best decision based on your individual situation.

I collect my scale to use as "ore" in bloomery smelting.

Can you give me your recipe for that? I have never tried to make a bloom myself, just helped others. It seems straight forward. Do you get steel or iron from a scale bloom?

Every thing has a use if you do a bit of lateral thinking.
All of my hammer scale I sweep up with a magnet and put into cans which I then give to a friend of mine who is a potter.He grinds up the scale to a powder and uses it as a glaze for his medieval pots - iron oxide.
Any of his medieval tiles he has as 'seconds' I get to line the bottom of my medieval forge.

I save my iron scale for the Gypsies when they come through. 10 bucks an ounce.

On the other hand, finding the piles of clinker and bottom ash are the best indicators of archeological sites for old furnaces and forges.

I did notice that. When I was in WV I had to move about 10 cubic yards to make room for a new fence line. There were perfectly preserved treasures in it. Sardine cans at the lowest level, Vienia sausage cans, a burned woolen shirt, and countless steel Pabst Blue Ribbon cans.

For years uncounted, I have put my fly ash in holes in the drive way or just piled it into a small hill. Now I am reading articles about the dangers of fly ash. I am thinking about putting it in a bag and taking it to the landfill. Everyone's input is wanted. I don't know whether the stuff is dangerous or not, but I will err on the side of caution.

I got a call from my wife's ex husband yesterday (best buddy) He was in tractor supply and remembered that I needed a good motor for my Fairbanks hammer. So, here it is, 22 amp, GE, high torque, farm duty, 1740 rpm, 5 hp, single phase, two hundred thirty volt motor Sale price,$299.00 USD! I love how the price kept dropping and dropping. Now, just to get my wife through her chemo treatments and I can have this little dude humming!

I draw them out just till they make good tentstakes. Don't see any point to make something useless.

Yes Dad...

Give them a call (706) 935-2666.

You may also want to bump the stock up to 3/4 inch and give the working areas more mass. I also just let my tongs air cool. I think mild steel is okay for a few types of tongs (farrier). You may want to search for more massive springs at truck stops or rail road yards.

I agree with everyone that to modify the tool is the only answer. However, my experience has taught me that i need only to file off the corners a bit to make my hardy tools fit.

Looks like a farrier got a hold of it.

I have found that working at home makes my female part think that I can do the house work because I don't have to drive. Also, being self employed, she thinks I can just put down my hammer and do what ever she wants when she wants. It has led to some lively discussions here!

I saw a film on a solar power plant, possibly Yermo CA, where they focused all of the reflectors on I believe a 1" thick steel plate. It literally only took a few seconds to melt through it.

I remember that solar plant. I did my last 18 months at Fort Irwin. Just to look at the light tower was a surreal experience.

Look at this, a free heat source!~

Lucky me, I used a large cypress log that I painted down with a boric acid solution.

About the only thing I can think of to add is you may wish to put a piece of plywood on top of the stump with shims underneath. I know I can't cut straight with a chain saw.

thanks i am buying off of Ebay. I checked Walmart they did not have it. i live in a small town Mississippi they do not carry much at my local stores.

Ace hardware may have it. It is the only place I can get washing soda.

I am thinking that if you welded the drum to the bottom, the expansion from the heat may crack your welds. I use a sheet metal/brake drum forge for demos and I just let the brake drum rest in the hole that is a bit smaller than the widest part of the drum. That way when the drum heats and expands, it just moves up a bit higher. Gravity has yet to fail me. :)

That spring looks sprung! not much travel left in there looks like.

it does look like it. However, the side arms are as far out as they can go.

get a piece of threaded rod that will go through the yokes on the bottom of the arms above the ram put on some washers and nuts. tighten the nuts till the coil spring is coil bound.

Thanks for this too. It should solve another conundrum I was having. How to get the spring to compress so I can put the linkage back together after I clean it.

I just ordered a new spring and a couple of spares. I am lucky that it is only 80 miles to the East side of Atlanta. The land where springs are made. I still am a bit concerned about the spacing between the coils. There is only 1/8th inch between each one and I am thinking that it will not allow the top die to go down enough.

However, as it is, the linkage to the side arms is nearly horizontal to the ground so perhaps a spring with fewer coils that would be spaced farther apart?

Suit yourself, but if you don't, your are limiting the useful stroke you can have, and... sometime in the future, you will break something on your Dupont linkage.

You don't have to lift your whole hammer, there should be holes in the sides of the anvil you can put a rod into and use hydraulic jacks to lift the anvil....

Thanks When I glue up the wooden part of the footing, I plan on using end grain under the hammer. I will leave that part free floating so I can easily replace it.

Both Fairbanks hammers I have owned (100# and 150#) are two pieced hammers. Is yours a two piece hammer? If the anvil is bolted to the frame.... Loosen the bolts and RAISE the anvil (put something under it).

Oh, I don't think I will do that, I have already picked that thing up enough ;)