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I Forge Iron

Drako11

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Posts posted by Drako11

  1. I wouldn't be discouraged by making a knife man! I started with RR Spike knives and have been making them for a couple months now, it is a lot easier then it looks! My knives are not as good quality as more experienced smiths, but they still come out pretty good in my mind and I have been able to sell a lot of them. I tried a RR Spike Tomahawk from anvilfire.com I found knives much easier!

    Also towards your question about keeping the blade straight, I have found that if I keep the spine and edge the same thickness until my final pass or two over the edge it doesn't bend up. Also work both sides as even a possible. If it does start to bend upwards I haven't found any problem in flipping it on it spine and tapping gently on the edge to straighten it. Once you do that all you have to do is hammer the edge a little bit and its back to where it was, except your blade is now straight. ; )

  2. Hey everyone!

    I haven't posted in a long while, but I wanted to tell everyone about a success I had this weekend. My church was having a fundraiser for the children in Puerto Rico for when we go on our mission trip down their.

    I offered to bring my forge down and make knives to sell. I sold all that I could make and made a good deal of money for them. Everyone was really interested and thought it was awesome what I was doing. I got a whole bunch of friends interested in the hobby....errrr....addiction now, oops..... :D Now I have to help them make forges and teach them some stuff, because my forge is to crowded!!

    Anyways it was just awesome to see people so interested in what I was doing and to actually sell something I had made, my blades are getting better and better I will have to post some pics soon. Really I need to post pics of my whole setup....almost got my second forge done, and got a little shop area setup.

    Oh I also met a couple people who had some tools they wanted to give me, someone who had an old crank forge they would give me, and got invited to an event to forge and sell stuff there. Woo hoo! Got praise, new toys, and a business opportunity in one day it was awesome!

  3. Great suggestions! Pre-bending I never thought of that brilliant! I think I am going to incorporate the wooden hammer and pre-bending. Just pre-bend and since I've never done it I will probably have to make corrections with a wooden hammer. Thanks for the help guys!

  4. Hello all,

    My brother and I have been messing around for a little while with RR Spikes, making some knives. We have made a couple crude ones that should look better once ground down, but all the blades curve up.

    Now I know that the blade starts curving up when you starts narrowing down the cutting edge. I want to make a knife like a sort of machette with a straight spine. How can I keep the blade from curving up or when it curves up tap it back down? Do I just flip it over and tap the cutting edge till the spine is straight?

    Thanks!

  5. Well I have always been interested in the times of old from ancient Greece, to Rome, from Knights in Shining armor, to the Revolution. I was watching alot of videos on YouTube about smithing and how to make knives and such. Stumbled on a video of a guy making a knife with a home made grill forge. We had an old grill sitting behind the house, ran out and bought some concrete and galvanized pipe and set the grill up as a forge. Found an avil, some ball pien hammers, a few wrenches and away I went. I have only been forging for a couple weeks, but I love it! Probably not going to turn it into a career, but will most likely be a life long hobby. ^_^

  6. Apparel:

    Cotton T-Shirts (Never liked wearing synthetic stuff)
    Blue Jeans
    Welding gloves (At least I think they're welding gloves they're pretty thick and go past your wrist in length)
    Sneakers (I have leater combat boots would those work?)

    Tools:

    Anvil
    Ball pien hammers of varying weight
    Crescent Wrench
    Channelocks
    Various chisels and punches
    Wirebrush
    A couple clamps (One clamp is attached to this big stand made out of an I beam apparently used for smithing before)

    (Just working with the bare minumum here, but we decided just to go for it and start whacking away)

    I don't have an apron or safety glasses yet, what type of apron would be better leather or cotton? I know a cotton apron would be cheaper, but leather seems more protective. Is a leather apron hard to move around and work in? Also Finnr you had mentioned making tongs, I found the guides for them, but was wondering what would be the best type of tong for basic holding stuff? Also would re-bar work for making tongs?

  7. Ok learned a few more things last night trying to make a tomahawk out of a RR Spike

    21. A bucket of cold water is always nice to have standing by for dipping hot tongs (in my case a crescent wrench) in, as well as burnt hands. Not to mention quenching as well.

    22. When you add fresh coal and it starts flaming up really high it seems to work well to shut off your air and let it smolder for awhile and when you come back it won't flame up as much if at all. (Maybe I'm just giving it to much air I don't know....)

    23. If you time your heats right two people can work on one anvil. (Although I wouldn't advice this at all, my brother and I wanted to work on seperate pieces so we got a little dangerous)

    24. Working in the rain is inadvisable, everything pops and crackles often sending sparks flying.

    25. (Alteration of the tip about wearing gloves) Ok so I tried working without gloves and I agree you have much better control. Unfortunately I don't have any long handled tongs yet, just using a crescent wrench. So I altered to one glove for my wrench hand and no glove on the hammering hand. This seems to work pretty well, but I do plan to go down to no gloves when I get proper tools.

    26. You don't have to fill up your whole forge to work on a piece. If it is a small piece just make a small mound of coal and work with that.

    27. Neighbors aren't always as excited about you getting a chance to smith for hours as you are. (That anvil ringing is somewhat hard on the nerves, a solid base should help though once I make it.....)

    28. Have a good grip on your piece before you start hammering. (This should be a no brainer, but I often find in our haste to start hammering before the heat dies we often end up dropping a piece because we weren't holding it securely.)

    29. If you want a small amount of metal to move use a small hammer. Its like golf, why use a driver for a putt?

    30. The coal and bits left over from your last job work great to start your fire next time. I actually use a little bit of charcoal, get it glowing, then add the left over bits. Once that is going good add on new coal. The left over bits do like to smoke alot though, because there is alot of fine dust I guess, it helps to give an opening where the air and flames can escape.

    Note: I'm sure I am probably mentioning alot of stuff most of you already know, and sorry is I am boring anyone. I am just putting down what I am learning as I go. : )

  8. Hey everyone! So I got an old anvil from my grandfather that I have been using, it is in pretty good condition, but like all old metal things it has a rusty tinge. I have been working on it with a drill powered wire brush, but it is taking a long time to get it all off. Is there something I can use or put on the anvil to help shine it up and get the rust off??

  9. It really depends on what fuel source is easiest to get around your area. I am just a begginner as well, but I have used both charcoal and coal. They both work well, although charcoal burns really fast compared to coal. I think the heat it a little better and more controllable with coal as well. However if you don't have access to coal where you live, charcoal is the way to go, especially since you can make your own charcoal if you have a mind to, I have and its actually pretty easy! You might also want to look into gas forges, alot of people here seem happy with those.

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