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That is exactly how I burned it in. Then I did matrikote in 3 burns. I didn't actually use quarts, but I had changed the color to solid dark. Maybe cup and a half. ThNks to your input I won't be half done by 6. How sealed does firebrick need to be over vermiculite, sides etc. Is it really sealed because it's wrapped in tight brick or can they just be close?( no angle cut pieces. And thanks again for your input. You got my questions picked out of ramblings. It's very appreciated, course now I got nothing going on 4-6 today. Thank you

Wasn't perlite used with kastolite before blankets came out? Mail arrives at about 4 so anyone around please safe me a 5th lining. And with a tank forge, isn't the distance to open air gonna keep heat in.

The one I have now was built per specs to be safe but got cracked around the opening from knocking into it and might be polluting. I know it wouldn't be in the 2700 club. But couldnt I get steel white with only kastolite insulating. No perlite. As close to 2" as I can, provided the tank will let me go 360 degrees Tx Due to density of homes and our wind, non cooking fires are not permitted on entire island and I admit to liking only doing a few runs at a time to keep craftsmanship up.. With those two, it seems like to much too try to hide smoke from the cruising backyard policeman 5-6 times daily and more for some friend of fire department all day.i was told to put out a propane chimney one day. It was homemade It doesn't need to be perfect just blanket free. I could leave out the perlite Tx I could put whole1.5" blocks of brick in corners and around forge to absorb and hold heat if that works I was gonna block doors off too.

I've got the plistex coming in should I use it instead of kol? I guess they're about the same $$. Yeah, I want my daughter outside but with the effects being so severe. It bothers me. I used qts of rigidizer on kaowool first installation. But I've knocked the entrance of the forge down to bare with cable inserts. Still bothered this stuff can be so deadly but it's OK to have the innards of forge dry and shrink an 1/8"and leave a gap outlining perimeter of whole entrance. What about smashed g3 brick mashed to powder and added to kol smeared on the tank interior? I could recoat in kol or plistex but want to make a blanket free tank forge If it's so dangerous I'd like to know if it's sealed or just pumping straight out bad fumes through cracks or exposed blanket like a dry sponge but it is still white from being kol ed

I've got a nice forge now, but it has kaowool. It got a few cracks and I'm scared. Id like to be able for my daughter to see what all the rackets about outside. Dlvd is delivered shortened. ( though it does look like blvd). I thought that price seemed cheap by at least $50. I was gonna cover the perlite and castolite with some straight castolite( to protect perlite maybe, its castable refractory if thick enough right?) Will straight castolite stick to the metal if I butter it. It's obviously a big mistake to do this but I ordered the stuff and destroyed my backup tank already . Plus, those silvery tanks look so cool all shined up

And is there a right way to apply the first layer around the metal inside of the forge. I've done my little rectangle ones in about 2 steps but it was on kaowool. Just realized. I bought 4.5 lbs of plistex on jungle for 25dlvd. Any thoughts? Thanks

Hello all. I'm starting my fourth kiln insulation stuffing in about 15 months and it's getting old(heavy stuff in Lil box). Tomorrow I've got more arriving for my first propane tank bodied forge. Perlite and kastolite were suggested as a base layer used 50/50. Does anyone know how to determine the amount the halves? Use by weight, volume or scoops, wet or dry etc. If any tips on using as a base layer for tank forge please help. This is to keep kaowool out of my life for good

I thought id read that folding cable diminishes the figure. (But draw out length of billet, fold it with hammer, flux the middle and beat it flat?)This billet was really weird, becsuse due to migged ends, i only twisted it about 1/2 turn. I have 0 clue what this figure will even look like. So it looks like angle grinder is causing the dark spot as opposed to it being an ugly burned end just mashed in hot metal. i think im getting speed better. How long on average should i hammer each heat forging ( i weld in 15 seconds a little hotter)how long to resoak in forge if its a storebought vevor running good. (Resoaks are blazing at 2 minutes nonrmal round.) Shouldnt i be able to psi. control 50 degrees below burning, never go higher, shouldnt i be able to full soak without bjurning? Welding has to continue with each forging as long as i start yellow right? Tx

The groove on the right, about 2/3 towards top I was leaning on it to take time and do it well vs freehand

Is the black square in the groove (at knifetip) a burn mark from angle grinder or is that part of the ugly from welding the ends cable is there any chance this will just end. I think th 2nd grinder channel looks clear. If its angle grinder, how can i prevent im future grindings. I wouldnt be surprised if ìts burned. I was full body weight on the grinder Are these cracjks? K

Hey Les, you were a lot of help in this. Thanks. I've got photos I'm gonna post to ask about color and cracking but don't know who's posting to put it under. Tx again I can remember red is dead. I hadn't even been down in the orange. Everything says be ready to go and stage hammer so I just assumed. Orange/red got to be 3-4 minutes working time. That would be 3-4 more time than it gets now. I thought I thought I was spending more time cooking than necessary.

Thanks Goods.(my hammer will always be available if you need one and I appreciate your info. Wow, that felt nice) I posted this on swage page because that's where it started and swage people have been much less grumpy. It will be nice to be able to ask 12 quick answers question all at once but sometimes one answer gets two so it seems like people posting their hundreds (or tens)of of ideas by year end from each person . I admit to combining a lot, thought that was favored. Truth be told these ladies and gents in the swage category have really good hammer knowledge too never could have made it without you dear folks of swage (picture of my metal)

What is the right answer when asked to describe my straight pein . Short?

Its hard to tell real info in 101. Some "official", non covidian posters ( or those with a poor state education) write things not in 101 or changed their thoughts after several years of covid. There is no way to tell whats new without writing dates, topics and authors down to compare.Its like an old school library as opposed to a forum. The questions i have are for people who have it and would like to help. Not asking anybody specific for anything. Sometimes its fun to share knowledge if you have it. Nobody reads love and war to find out it was tolstoy. I try to post newest questions because after a few hours i try my guess on the old questions. Im about 60% accurate. Just trying to be a recreational metal monkey, not run the large stuff everybody apparently runs or is ready to run.

The pein only sticks out about 1 " its a fiskars. All the cross peins have a tail3-4" with a square frame. Can i have any type of fire that would make the metal hard to work once its welded? It might just bea matter of needing to hit it harder. I weighted it down with wrapped big chain Tx

Hey guys, ready yo draw out lengthwise. Any ideas. I posted this here because i didnt get yelled at first time. Nobody respects the swage

Hey guys. Hope all hss neen well. It was suggested earlier to try and finish my billet just to see. I have done that. In crack pic is there something to tell me the crack is more than just needing another beat Pic two. Was i dumb to scoreythematal this much digging for smooth on the inside Question C if you beat cable at welding heat, will it disappear, refuse to spread out. In the really good video it showed welding. If i can figure the color to heat, is there good temps to stretch out cable. Ive been using welding heat 2075- 2200 for everything. Thanks I have a rr track to work on and a shallow straight peen and plenty beginners cross peen. I have also been hitting it pretty hard once my ping is solid. Rr track jumps about 4" if ive got a special hit to do

Thank you gentleman. This was a requench on an already tempered blade i didnt like without the handle hardened too. It bent. have a great weekend guys and thanks.

Side item, sorry. I rehardened a piece of metal but forgot to temper 1 week ago, can i just temper now at 300 for 2 hours or all the way reharden again. Tx

This one was worlds easier with you guys help. I kinda choose optimism over cognition alot. If yal wouldnt have helped, you can imagine how far id have gotte. It looks like im combing metal hair. Thanks guys, Picture when visiible

Listening for new stuff i mean for next lot of metal bought.

Ok, thanks, i tried to continue finishing this and actually did ok. If i dont "pound" once its stiffening i can seem to effect the center strands. Every cut i did across the billet showed a few strands in the center i think disappeared with more hammering. Its go good to know to do each section 100%. Id been doing about 8-13. As a side note. I did see slag bubble out in the flux when i dropped it in cracks. Pretty neet. Im gonna post pics but it takes alot of time to sand w an angle grinder. Too get all the grooves and recessions. I am listening, just trying to quietly get out of this (the 2" is nice for bigger blades.) Fiasco. The other thing is that i have 16" x 2" with expensively migged ends, and dont have anything else to work on. I really appreciate you not giving up on me. I am listening for new stuff.

By but it down you mean less psi?im pretty sure both sho definate cold suts. How is it this wont join when its only .80% of mass. I was gonna cut 3-4" sections for kniving. If i get back up to welding heat, using 3-4" pieces, can i not just beat the space out of it?. And what is the whole unravel thing. Ive lost about 8" off this billet due to 1 strand i could not get seated in my new melty cable i would have guessed the 2nd pic to be a bad weld but it came out fine.i think . I know the fissures on the bottom delineate where my forge has strand burned permanently pr does this just meed a thorough pounding??thanks

Is there any chance, My burned looking pieces are just cable not cleaned enough and by hammering the heat will overwhelm the lack of weld and will weld it together? I got up to 23 psi last night and got much farther closing the billet. The forge got white before i put the cable in. Im using a watch cause i cant look in forge with no metal even in it. ( thought metal gets brighter) Thanks again Today i repound, sand billet and then ill post pics Happy weekend to all

How much am i trying to save this. Do i cut specifically around pices, lightly ground the cold ahut. Im planning on welding the metal more as i go along. Do serious metalworkers do 100% as they go down the cable or can you do all the 2 lb hammer, then the 3lb. Then it should hold and a 4 lb would be used. This cable has appeared to appreciate time to settle. Or maybe i just start hotter each day than i finish. Thanks I know pic has cold shuts but theyre still 80% welded. Im gonna clean up billet more but dont know how 3d deep to go.im pretty sure 90% of strands valleys are all ok. How do i know im refining my weld and not just beating all the metal together. Is 13 psi way to low for a vevor store forge. It goes up to 30 psi but gas goes quick on that setting. Id use smaller cable but im weaponed out so the only things i make are machetes for fun. I dont know what to with what for me would probably struggle to hit .25". With 2" i can lose a lot due to cold metal.