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Oh, my wife eats my snacks and drank my mountain dew or I'd study harder. (I still got my Little Debbie treats, they're hidden w hammers in basement). You were the original suggestor of metrakote but it was years back. I found plistex near free compared to metrakote so I switched to it. Not as insulative but seems to make heat better heat bounce around forge.

Many on internet have advised plistex directly on kaowool. What kind of damage would I see inx̌ the plistex/kaowool if safety is disappearing ?I'm 85% still covered in kol, but I had a bad drop and lost a few chunks. Thanks Thanks How many times can you recoat in plistex and over what conditions? If the plistex is cheap enough could I repaint after each usage? Why with blanket, kol and plistex did i burn myself so thoroughly on outside of forge. If insulated to 2700-3000, should shell be touchable? It seems that way if temp should be 60-80 degrees. Thanks a lot

Many thanks. I see I got my floor of forge kinda chasmed in areas. It should have been there ahead of pre plistexing so it should have 2-3 coats. It looks liìke it could hold pounds under the surface layer and that just has to be bad Should I not worry,, add 1 more layer or coat it thick? Thanks again Do people clean out Lil propane forges with alot of plistex

Does plistex glow hot orange for a second when it is cooked in.i think i remember metrakote having to turn bright orange yellow to completely cure. Thanks all and take care too. It over kol. Can I burn this plistexn on my propane burners or do i need to wait til tomorrow for my 2 firebricks?

That's a fire! Mine only has orange breath. That looks like an ai drawing

One of the things I was looking forward to was having the ends start to get smaller to keep more heat it. And everytime I use kol over the outside lip it's broken quickly. My op was an exaggeration, I usually get about only 6-8 months with stock to big to be comfortably fit. Kol isn't disappearing, it falls out In chunks. Sorry for misleading anyone. Tx

Kastolite 30 isn't cheap and I did guesstimate about 6 '10 bs to fill it minimum. Plus , I thought kastolite only worked if it had kaowool under it and i dont wznt that.. The old forge only had about a 9x6 openings( pre wool kol and plis, I can't keep gloves usable, get torn up or lubed up (from cable), so I've been trying long pieces but a few inches off doesn't fit and hot metal rushes my accuracy You've gotta be really exact with 18" x 2" going in a small toaster. And sliding piece over floor. My castolite breaks out in chunks. It was rigidized, buttered, high humidity period Burn in, followed by full plistexand burned. The kol was very sticky in a good way but applied w texture I didn't smooth out. I can't be the first yahoo to try this Thanks

sorry for delayed response. Thank yal. My weight is often only 15-20 lbs but it can be up to about 18". Honestly. I have trouble with13" pieces if they're hot. It has to be pretty perfect in and out to not hit plistex kastolite and eventually the evil kaowool. I'm pretty darn sure my chamber could be 11wide at bottom, 9" tall and 13" long. I don't want to use kaowool. It's literally my only fear in this life. I guess this will also cause problems w edges. The longer length of 13" will make heat stay in longer, thus being hotter. I can cut the tank however I need to. Like the handle on it design for easy carrying. Wanted to show an illustrative picture. I wouldn't be near as offended to occasionally scratch plistex on soft brick on the sides and roof as long as it's not gonna go through to a kaowool layer. Thanks again And why unpaint in something if your gonna bring it up to 2200 degrees ? And shouldn't forge be room temp to touch if it's got 3000 degree insulation. I'm know it get alot hotter. Poorly sealed intervals?

Is there set plans to put bricks in a propane tank so I can skip kaowool? I know you can make one out of angle iron and bricks but like the durability of it closed in a shell. The "bottom" of the tanke has been smashed flat to an 8," bottom. I will use a venturi and am tired of replacing lining after every two forgings because the heavy weight makes my cable bend, making it scrape top or bottom everytime. In two years I've kastolited, kaowooled and buttered about 9 times. I need no info on kaowool, I will not use it. I'd hoped to soft brick. Then hard brick bottom and coat it all with plastic. Will the exposed opening around the entry and exit melt? Thanks all, hope yal are all OK. Forges was colored blue so I couldn't get it to add this question there. NO KAOWOOL. Take care **This is for any poster/advisor who knows. It is not limited to any 1 poster

Same as if you never posted. Internet personalities huh. And stay ignorant coming from Florida, ouch. Chat rooms are so empowering. You also don't know how to effectively assist someone. Course with oranges all around and clear knowledge of what you don't know i do feel behind you. oh well tell your husband his lil kitty tried to scratch tonight and will be sleepy

I've learned enough I'm confident you'd be a poor source of hp and vinegar information. You can learn to hear tones when folks aren't sure. Nothing in metal is new, just rediscovered. So one of you out there may have the info. I need, like the question was repeatedly asked implies, how to get off the last oxide layer gently enough. I can tell by answering something else, you don't know about that. Anyone can post if no one stops you but if it's just to say what you don't know or how i can change destination vs route thats not really helpful. Asked it 8 times and you're on my case about burning hands? Alright then, ive learned you didnt read the whole post? Not just for you, but for all the grumpies who prefer liberries, and private chat rooms for their newest material. Im pretty sure you're not the go to guy for ph either I guess i do appreciate yout bravery, honesty and being willing to tell us what you don't know. You're still our champion!!

I came here because I thought you guys were overerall respectable. Is there a bad one not to listen too? Somebodies posting on my post i've got a few guesses. Just my luck,with me it makes 2 yahoo's on here

I'm just asking about vinegar and hp. My opener says I don't understand or intend to ever use ferric again. I had what I think was alot of it weight wise and got rid of it and quit using fc. No vinegar and peroxide people in the house? And I would never use acid from shady source. Ebay

I've figured out nice welding on 2" cable that I was told I couldn't do Ibut I tried. exact is never that inportant, just the fun of work and admiration and support from my tools. I know everyone is telling me the same thing , I'm just asking what everyone does with last oxide to ever be able to use it for light colored food without a black stain Do I not need to boil in bs, set it in cooler stuff or do it longer. I know that stuff is tacky 30 min after taking it out of water with light mineral oil. I even try to agitate anything that tries to accumulate. Wet, it looks good Tx

I'd say if they got a bottle, sure? The grocery people think I'm making meth with all the vinegar and hp I buy. I base my etch on several dips. I spray with windex, tthen clean each side with soapy water. If I dont wipe off the last dip in etch it has black sticky stuff on it. I can fake cleaning pre windex etc., but it just disappears when I try to get the immediate lasts oxides off. OK latticino,I was misreading. You're saying the type of damascus won't ever be one I can just skim for shine I think Thanks guys Any ideas on hp and vinegar anyone. It darken steel fast and the color stays on forever, except light stripes

Polishing thenjigh point w 1500 is erasing all lines. I can do it with lines a little, only by hand, but if I push for clear lines, it starts to disappear. I thought the muriatic was commercial strength(?) and in a plastic. ( the floor of my car was too, and it ate through) What is the difference in letting base not make bubbles if the acid is gonna make the bubbles too. This should be approachable sans class or reading as Moses did it in the bible. It can be close enough without exact. How do people smooth sand to 1500 grit before etching and then stll have enough left to etch the contours? Millions of people use chemistry w no idea why. I can be one of them. Built up oxides in etch ok?

Good ones guys, thanks. Our groundwater runs off island into intercoastal waterway or ocean at floods. Will muriatac burn me if I pick up and put down knife "quickly". Windexes ammonia stops the etch when I pick it up and aquire it right. A little discomfort like heat I can handle but that stops when you quit touching it. Tx much Should I never etch in rust colored etch? (Old rust from hours ago?) ,it is white vinegar

Thank, I'm missing the meaning of second paragraph. I'm not sure what you're saying is ok. Sorry, gotta a case of Wednesdays. Thanks for help Is sodium carbonate some thing obvious like baking soda? Is there anything obvious like don't pour into septic system? Down drain.

I have no plans other than steel cable, might do a gomai, with nickel. One it bubbles over, I can pour it in yard?, can you only make half the acid safe to pour out. Other the vinegar smell bellowing, I can do it inside. I did. If it reduces oxides it can't get them all because I still get the sticky paste bladeside. Unless, Hp releases the hold and then it's not even attached for my last scrub, whenever given. Is there pictures I can see each stepbefore and after to diagnose my problem. Thanks guys

Thanks, I thought I might be sanding through the grain. How do I know when I've reduced enough oxide. My judgement isn't working. Should I toothbrush the face after my last etch, the residue comes out sticky if I've left it. What is the order of the final cleaning,boiling and gentle toothbrush scrub? I've read many suggestions to oil the last toothbrush scrub but I'd also read to do it unlubricated. Is peroxide and vinegar ok it works near instantly Just dip in straight dtrength muriatic for how long do the final stages go. I'll try it if I can use full strength muriatic and a 1/4 box of soda will make it perfectly fine to pour out in yard ?

Just gently pinch blade under the etch still?

Do you rewash w acetone after that. Do you use enchant to keep damp for wipedown or some soap enhanced dipping bowl My lines will disappear under normal strength pinches. I got some beautiful dark finishes last night but I ground them away trying to expose my shiny lines I think I ground smooth

Do you let the oxide go if it's smooth. It's that final cleaning I'm failing

Thank you. I use "about" a half gallon of white vinegar and about 1 small bottle of hp. It can go 10 minutes and look good or overnite. Other than a lot of pitting, the same. Looks good til after boiling in baking soda, then it wipes off. Does my Pic look right? I let the knife cool and rinse in water and then let it dry all the way before coating it in mineral oil, which is where I've used toothbrush, 1500 grit on hard block, a flat sharpening rods and several sharpening stones. I know it's 1080, pretty sure it's 1084. Tx If I could keep that figure above, is that good enough This is the look I get if I take sticky black sruffoff gently

I'm trying to etch and failing miserably. No matter what the magnificent damascus design is gone by finish. I've done over 10 etched on same blade and getting frustrated. I used fc, but I don't understand and will not buy or use it again. I started using vinegar and boiled the metal in it about 6 hours total. This didn't work several times. I heard to add salt and soap, but nothing. Finally I saw something that said hydrogen peroxide. This was the first stuff I could see bubbling. When do you stop toothbrushing oxides because it can erase the lines. It starts a nice darker color with white cracks but then it all disappears. I have have tried many many combinations of the order of brush in etch, spray windex and then a dip of water. After I'm done I boil finished etch for 30 min in soda, but there is still fine oxide that disappears with my lines when I barely touch it. Should I toothbrush it hard and soak longer, if it's deeper it won't disappear. Can you sand through raised lines so damascus isn't visible. Tx HB The look in the pic would be fine to finish with