hbmasa

Same as if you never posted. Internet personalities huh. And stay ignorant coming from Florida, ouch. Chat rooms are so empowering. You also don't know how to effectively assist someone. Course with oranges all around and clear knowledge of what you don't know i do feel behind you. oh well tell your husband his lil kitty tried to scratch tonight and will be sleepy

I've learned enough I'm confident you'd be a poor source of hp and vinegar information. You can learn to hear tones when folks aren't sure. Nothing in metal is new, just rediscovered. So one of you out there may have the info. I need, like the question was repeatedly asked implies, how to get off the last oxide layer gently enough. I can tell by answering something else, you don't know about that. Anyone can post if no one stops you but if it's just to say what you don't know or how i can change destination vs route thats not really helpful. Asked it 8 times and you're on my case about burning hands? Alright then, ive learned you didnt read the whole post? Not just for you, but for all the grumpies who prefer liberries, and private chat rooms for their newest material. Im pretty sure you're not the go to guy for ph either I guess i do appreciate yout bravery, honesty and being willing to tell us what you don't know. You're still our champion!!

I came here because I thought you guys were overerall respectable. Is there a bad one not to listen too? Somebodies posting on my post i've got a few guesses. Just my luck,with me it makes 2 yahoo's on here

I'm just asking about vinegar and hp. My opener says I don't understand or intend to ever use ferric again. I had what I think was alot of it weight wise and got rid of it and quit using fc. No vinegar and peroxide people in the house? And I would never use acid from shady source. Ebay

I've figured out nice welding on 2" cable that I was told I couldn't do Ibut I tried. exact is never that inportant, just the fun of work and admiration and support from my tools. I know everyone is telling me the same thing , I'm just asking what everyone does with last oxide to ever be able to use it for light colored food without a black stain Do I not need to boil in bs, set it in cooler stuff or do it longer. I know that stuff is tacky 30 min after taking it out of water with light mineral oil. I even try to agitate anything that tries to accumulate. Wet, it looks good Tx

I'd say if they got a bottle, sure? The grocery people think I'm making meth with all the vinegar and hp I buy. I base my etch on several dips. I spray with windex, tthen clean each side with soapy water. If I dont wipe off the last dip in etch it has black sticky stuff on it. I can fake cleaning pre windex etc., but it just disappears when I try to get the immediate lasts oxides off. OK latticino,I was misreading. You're saying the type of damascus won't ever be one I can just skim for shine I think Thanks guys Any ideas on hp and vinegar anyone. It darken steel fast and the color stays on forever, except light stripes

Polishing thenjigh point w 1500 is erasing all lines. I can do it with lines a little, only by hand, but if I push for clear lines, it starts to disappear. I thought the muriatic was commercial strength(?) and in a plastic. ( the floor of my car was too, and it ate through) What is the difference in letting base not make bubbles if the acid is gonna make the bubbles too. This should be approachable sans class or reading as Moses did it in the bible. It can be close enough without exact. How do people smooth sand to 1500 grit before etching and then stll have enough left to etch the contours? Millions of people use chemistry w no idea why. I can be one of them. Built up oxides in etch ok?

Good ones guys, thanks. Our groundwater runs off island into intercoastal waterway or ocean at floods. Will muriatac burn me if I pick up and put down knife "quickly". Windexes ammonia stops the etch when I pick it up and aquire it right. A little discomfort like heat I can handle but that stops when you quit touching it. Tx much Should I never etch in rust colored etch? (Old rust from hours ago?) ,it is white vinegar

Thank, I'm missing the meaning of second paragraph. I'm not sure what you're saying is ok. Sorry, gotta a case of Wednesdays. Thanks for help Is sodium carbonate some thing obvious like baking soda? Is there anything obvious like don't pour into septic system? Down drain.

I have no plans other than steel cable, might do a gomai, with nickel. One it bubbles over, I can pour it in yard?, can you only make half the acid safe to pour out. Other the vinegar smell bellowing, I can do it inside. I did. If it reduces oxides it can't get them all because I still get the sticky paste bladeside. Unless, Hp releases the hold and then it's not even attached for my last scrub, whenever given. Is there pictures I can see each stepbefore and after to diagnose my problem. Thanks guys

Thanks, I thought I might be sanding through the grain. How do I know when I've reduced enough oxide. My judgement isn't working. Should I toothbrush the face after my last etch, the residue comes out sticky if I've left it. What is the order of the final cleaning,boiling and gentle toothbrush scrub? I've read many suggestions to oil the last toothbrush scrub but I'd also read to do it unlubricated. Is peroxide and vinegar ok it works near instantly Just dip in straight dtrength muriatic for how long do the final stages go. I'll try it if I can use full strength muriatic and a 1/4 box of soda will make it perfectly fine to pour out in yard ?

Just gently pinch blade under the etch still?

Do you rewash w acetone after that. Do you use enchant to keep damp for wipedown or some soap enhanced dipping bowl My lines will disappear under normal strength pinches. I got some beautiful dark finishes last night but I ground them away trying to expose my shiny lines I think I ground smooth

Do you let the oxide go if it's smooth. It's that final cleaning I'm failing

Thank you. I use "about" a half gallon of white vinegar and about 1 small bottle of hp. It can go 10 minutes and look good or overnite. Other than a lot of pitting, the same. Looks good til after boiling in baking soda, then it wipes off. Does my Pic look right? I let the knife cool and rinse in water and then let it dry all the way before coating it in mineral oil, which is where I've used toothbrush, 1500 grit on hard block, a flat sharpening rods and several sharpening stones. I know it's 1080, pretty sure it's 1084. Tx If I could keep that figure above, is that good enough This is the look I get if I take sticky black sruffoff gently

I'm trying to etch and failing miserably. No matter what the magnificent damascus design is gone by finish. I've done over 10 etched on same blade and getting frustrated. I used fc, but I don't understand and will not buy or use it again. I started using vinegar and boiled the metal in it about 6 hours total. This didn't work several times. I heard to add salt and soap, but nothing. Finally I saw something that said hydrogen peroxide. This was the first stuff I could see bubbling. When do you stop toothbrushing oxides because it can erase the lines. It starts a nice darker color with white cracks but then it all disappears. I have have tried many many combinations of the order of brush in etch, spray windex and then a dip of water. After I'm done I boil finished etch for 30 min in soda, but there is still fine oxide that disappears with my lines when I barely touch it. Should I toothbrush it hard and soak longer, if it's deeper it won't disappear. Can you sand through raised lines so damascus isn't visible. Tx HB The look in the pic would be fine to finish with

After using plistex more intensively there are updates. Plistex is like drying mud until it's all the way cooked dry. It is easy to pop off chunks of plistex on the entrance and exit of the forge. Plistex is very good and cheap, but it's no matrikote. The matrikote reflects the heat better off the floor. It's way hotter to be near the forge openings. You could probably use plistex for sides, tops and cracks. It is the perfect thing to fill the gap between the forge ends and that deadly kaowool blanket. I'm figuring out how to make a plenty hot propane tank flame. Part of the secret is collapsing what will be the bottom of the tank. It is so far getting obvious that good ir doesn't allow so much heat to get through. Heat doesn't go through soft brick enough to use the deadly blanket. It's not worth it. Hbmasa " I love it when a plan comes together" Tank honestly is getting very hot at this point. No hands in or on forge when it's over 1800. Haven't got the last 300 degrees yet. Silver tank will glow orange. Is it a grumpy one or no tips like liberty?

OK, I can now tell you most of this. Coal (not charcoal) gets plenty hot in a grill with a fan on it. I could not figure a way to lower it into the heat and hold it there but it felt peeling skin hot. Killed the grill. I found out the brick Forges can be moved but if you knock them loose they could collapse when fires on so it was not recommended, it actually was recommended to not do it. He said if is stationary and really safe, it should work. Plistex dries hard. Should be near as strong as kastolite. A slow roast with bricks up on each side will cook in the plistex.(That's what I guessed) up high with bricks in the way flame is all over the entrance I think that's all, plistex is really good and so much cheaper than matrikote. I got 4.5 lbs on jungle for $25 dlvd. Matrikote was about 46 for a pint i didn't have to touch kaowool or hear old bellyaching yet. If you ignore someone why do they still get to post on your post. If they were talking we could take their teeth, does that mean fingers if typing for attention?

I got some posts all of the sudden and this wasn't a joke. It was an actualifi member who told me perlitte to begin with. It doesn't mKe sense after sealing something from exposure to not be worried about an 1/8" of visibly opem gap running through kastolite. Then again, im state educated. I am no longer posting on this so don't spend hours anyone on my malady. To those who did help and not try to sell for kaowool, I'm very appreciative and sorry if the kitty litter offended anyone. I very seriously read about it on internet yesterday related to perlite Iron dragon don't know how you found that but that's really good reading. I've not seen it laid so simply. Good reading Tx all

Hello all. Happy Saturday. Due to this site iI have no welders or torches. (I listened). I need to recover the ends of my forge in plistex where kol got knocked off. Is there a good schedule to burn this in? my only heat (the burners) can come from softbricks at both entrances or let it go. Does plistex dry hard, or will blanket push in. Is it more durable than kol? Tx I've got a full box of wood matches or could put whole thing in my grill (not burner) on charcoal with a strong fan blowing coal height. Tx Last one, can you carry a 4 brick angle iron forge oris that something that needs its own permanent space. Can you use brick weight to seal heat or does it really need angle iron( I know to carry) State educated bur sincere tx

I couldn't remember what I was buying and got inches away from ordering vermiculite when I bought it but the rare flash of brilliance told me to go reread. Thanks for the head up on both. Now I'm thinking lava rock and kitty litter( a joke) Tx

I think I'll just hold until I get a better idea of whats going on. Thanks alot for your time and effort everyone. Somebody speaking up earlier could have saved my 2nd tank but hey. Tx

Is insowool OK this month?

I used food coloring in the rigidizer to make sure I got everywhere, I got it with a sprayer til well coated in color, then the blanket burned white. It started its kol life white. Sorry, I'm such a poor typist. State schools...

Sorry, I mistook perlite w vermiculite. We always used on the crops mixed with nutrients but always together. My blanket went white after burn in. And seeing special burn. It was very stiff when I covered it well with col. Kept it wet... the forge I did that to is a little sun. Plenty of welding heat. I was putting an 18" 2" cable in it, missed the entrance a little and it stripped off nicely scuplted kol of one hole side. I've got a ton of this cheap plistex ..... That is too much effort and concern over blanket. Coke is no better to breath. My new going idea is to cover soft bricks in kol to keep it up. Use about 2 horizontally on sides and a solid floor of soft bricks. I'm hoping to not have to have bricks on ceiling. I just realized using the perlite as a spacefiller meant mixing it in the wet kol Sorry so long winded When I say cheap plistex it was 25 for 4.5 lbs. No put down of plistex