Chad Osborne

here are some pics I think. the bottom 2 are not finished yet.

Ok blade thickness differs knife to knife, my last 2 were 5 mm at base of spine, and tapered down to 2 mm at the tip. The blade is a flat grind, and sharpened at 25 degrees on a diamond gatco kit, and then stropped with green buffing compound on a leather stropp. Chopping through wood across the grain, (standard pine 2x4). Hair shaving sharp before, and not hair shaving sharp after; but a couple of swipes on the stropp fixed that. Have not tried other grind angels, but I liked the 19, I think it will work great for Deer season. A standard compass should do fine. I just happened to quench my first knife by accident with the tip faceing North, and a lot of ol timers swear by it. Here is my process for Railroad spike knives (they make good knives not great knives) 1) Forge blade, normalize. 2) Grind and shape blade, stamp name and serial number in handle. 3) Heat to working temp,then twist handle, heat and normalize again. 4) File sharpen and smooth all areas that need it heat and normalize. 5) Sand, then buff to mirror shiny(at this point it would make a nice letter opener) 6) triple quench, sand and buff to mirror shiny, usually 40 up to 300 grit, black, then green buffing compund.7) Sharpen on diamond gatco at 25 degrees, then stropp with green compound....... finished. the handle is easy because the knife is all one piece.

I don't no about you guys but when I am making knives they talk to me, grind here, file there, bend here, the knife tells me when it is finished. I thought you couldn't go wrong with a triple quench. Buffing without gloves is so you don't over heat the blade, I allways were gloves for everything else. magnetic North by a compass is what I have been told, my first knife just happened by chance to be quenched faceing north so I have not changed. Enjoy what you are doing and have fun.

I make spike knives from HC spikes, there is no need to temper, just quench in Super quench 3 times with blade pointing magnetic North. My Knives will bend 90 3 times before breaking. Sand with 300 grit, buff without gloves, dip in water when to hot, sharpen at 25 degrees, will cut through 2x4, and still hold edge. 19 degrees was to thin, blade deformed when I hit a knot, hope this helps.:cool:

thanks for the info, I havent had to heat treat yet, being that they are railroad spike knives, but i will be doing some heat treating with my old farrier rasps.

Do you sharpen hair cutting sharp before quench? or butterknife sharp before quench? Wich gives the strongest edge? I have made some railroad spike knives and i polished and sharpened before quench. I have yet to try a dull edge before quenching, hopeing someone can save me some time.

Hey Steve I am a Beginer knife maker, I have read the other posts, and I still have an unanswered question. Do you sharpen a blade before quenching? and if you do not could you please explain.